I'm building a 383 to put in my v6 camaro. i want to run a newer computer so its reprogram-able and so i don't have to use the tpi runners. i want all gauges to work and need to know who makes the modified intake with rear distributor already drilled. will stock gauges work with that computer. will harness reach. what are the power limits with that intake. what kind of distributor to use etc. or should i get a tpi computer and just swap intake manifolds? if so how do i program it? could i use a carb manifold and drill out for the injectors and pirate fuel rails? is the speed density system better? would it work if i just went carborated and kept the stock ecu to run the gauges? looking to make 500 hp and the stock tpi seems to be to restrictive to achieve that. anyone done this before??am using t56 tranny.

 

are you trying to swap to an lt1 engine? or just use an lt1 computer to run a fuel injected 383. your post is kinda confusing. lets get some base question out of the way before anything

what kind of budget are you working with?
do you have a new rear end figured into the budget?
what about sub frame connectors?
or new front springs? (the car will sit lower in the front with a v8 on the stock v6 springs)
do you plan on driving this car everyday?
have you considered emissions laws if you live in the US? (theyre federally mandated and not just a "we dont emissions test here" kinda thing)
how long of a time frame are you willing to work with?
are you building the engine yourself?
are you looking for something fun to drive on the streets or is there a reason youre shooting for 500hp?
are you wanting 500hp to the wheels, or 500hp a the crank?

all of these are important questions when deciding on what routes to take for an engine swap.

 

Nobody , custom work required

Gauges don't run off the ECM

LT1 has a dist at the front ; why do you want to rear mount it?
If you use a rear mount dist then you can't use the LT1 ECM

All ECM's / PCM's are re-programmable one way or another

LT1 heads only take a LT1 intake ( without mods )
From what you are asking you want a LT1 without all the LT1 parts so why bother?
Just build a reg 383 and use a HSR / MR or TPI intake on it with a TPI ECM .MAF or SD your choice

 

have l98 block afr 195 cnc heads moser 12 bolt 4.10s.
want to be able to drive every day though probably wont
i want a minium 500hp &tq with the right cam and intake in a block i am assembling myself.
as far as the car full show quality paint job(an uncle is in the business and will help) including engine bay and undercarag. bolt on for all out performance, inner outer sub frame connectors ajd torque with crossmember relocation. lower controll arms & panhard both adj and with relocation brackets for the 1" drop high rate springs i wana use. swaybars, k member wonderbar and lower controll in front with strut tower brace. although i want to piret a mustang 2 long arm short arm in the front to get camber gain to help in the corners insted of seting it up static an wearing the tires funny. i used to run 275 17 in front and 315 in rear with a similar setup and felt i had plenty of traction in the rear but the front tires rolled under to much in hard corners. if not the adj upper perches. maybe coil overs on the fence about it and maybe a rack conversion but not sure about a manual one. and am aluminum drive shaft. i want ac heat and all stock gauges to work and be accurate. i just found a 95 t56 than im want to modify to have the shorter .80 and .63 overdrive ratios so i can actually use all 6 gears and rebuild to handle the additional power and handle track use. with that said i am trying to figure out the air fuel dilivery on this engine.
id like to also keep the abs functional if possabel
id like to run an obd2 computer b/c its plug and play no chip to re burn
the stock tpi manifolds that work with those heads were sized for a 305 and dont flow sufficient air support the power i want to make. i think i can use a reluctor wheal in the timing chain and piret a new manifold which have short runners to make it work. i can get an aftermarket lt1 modified intake manifold from jegs but dont want to spend 1300. im not worried about big brother. the car will be exempt in 2 years/can be a custom/exempt or ill just pat the 500 for a waver if i had too. the 100 miles a month i might drive it will rarely see any emission friendly part throttle anyways but i do want it to be streatable.
another option i was considering is to take a performance friendly dule plan or low rise single plane (i want it to fit under stock hood but im not to worried about loosing som low rpm torque)carb manifold and drill out for fuel injectors. im not sure the factory fule lines or fule rails pump etc can handle the flow i need?? once again id have to buy aftermarket and dont want to spend big bucks.
my original plan was just to go with performer rpm manifold and a cab. im not sure if double pumper would be better than the vacume secondary i have now(from a previous build) and not sure if i should run a vacume or mech advance distruibtor( want to run a ms box if go carb) i also red on a side not the v6 and v8 distruibitors have respective tacks and id have to swap a v8 tach to get an accuret reading??? my time frame is months and my budget is flexable. im trying to get some feedback on how others have acheived the power levels and streatabuility im looking for and can give some advice on part selection intergration and tuning witch i consider most important.

 

To get that from a 383 it is going to be hot engine with a lumpy idle and cr*p fuel economy with esp with a 4.10 rear.

So spend $1500 on a aftermarket ECM and wiring
Any LT1 ECM is only going to work with the front mount LT1 Opti spark dist
FWIW
there is equipment you can buy for $200 to do flash tunes ( no chip ) on any OBD1 system so you can run a cheap TPI computer on any engine

 

i wasn't aware that you could reflash the chips by yourself now. thanks im going to look into it

 

You can do it that way by programming a eprom (chip ) to replace the stock memcal
http://www.moates.net/burn2-chip-pro....html?cPath=94

but there is equipment that allows you to adjust the tune straight from your laptop as you drive; the same way you think OBDII cars are done
http://www.moates.net/ostrich-20-the....html?cPath=95
No different than a flashing a PCM

Or you can buy this which does both functions.
http://www.moates.net/apu1-autoprom-....html?cPath=95

You tune the car off the laptop and when happy with the tune , you burn the tune on a chip to leave in the car permanently.
If you want to make a further adjustments you just reconnect the device and retune