?s for those who removed their k member fro swap
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From: Pittsburgh
Car: 88 iroc vert
?s for those who removed their k member fro swap
im deciding if i want to remove my k member when start me swap. it will make a lot easier to do my notching and clean up.
heres my ?s...
do the springs need to be removed prior to dropping the k member??
what else needs unbolted besides top strut, brake lines, steering shaft?? i currently dont have an engine in the car
also, should the bolts need loctite on them when reinstalled?
heres my ?s...
do the springs need to be removed prior to dropping the k member??
what else needs unbolted besides top strut, brake lines, steering shaft?? i currently dont have an engine in the car
also, should the bolts need loctite on them when reinstalled?
Re: ?s for those who removed their k member fro swap
Spring removal is optional, but if you're spending alot of time on the notch(es) it would make life easier if it was bare. If leaving them in be sure to use chains for safety
Steering shaft can stay put. I prefer to unhook the pitman and idler arms and take the center link with tierods out. If the wheels are turned all the way one direction, unhooking the spindles from steering will suffice. I like to install the engine from below and none will clear the center link
I lift from the sway bar near the chassis mounts. Can also use the front frame horns if you can access them. Wonder bar is pretty thin, so use your judgement. Its about 500lbs of force. Do NOT wrap around the upper or lower radiator shroud
I did not loctite any bolts upon any reinstallation. There wasnt any from the factory and you put enough torque on them they wont back out. Suspension nuts are usually self locking. I replace my drivetrain more often than most replace their tires. Never have I ran across a suspension bolt that loosened up on its own
Steering shaft can stay put. I prefer to unhook the pitman and idler arms and take the center link with tierods out. If the wheels are turned all the way one direction, unhooking the spindles from steering will suffice. I like to install the engine from below and none will clear the center link
I lift from the sway bar near the chassis mounts. Can also use the front frame horns if you can access them. Wonder bar is pretty thin, so use your judgement. Its about 500lbs of force. Do NOT wrap around the upper or lower radiator shroud
I did not loctite any bolts upon any reinstallation. There wasnt any from the factory and you put enough torque on them they wont back out. Suspension nuts are usually self locking. I replace my drivetrain more often than most replace their tires. Never have I ran across a suspension bolt that loosened up on its own
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 458
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh
Car: 88 iroc vert
Re: ?s for those who removed their k member fro swap
thanks for the reply pocket!
i havent been around my car in some time since its in another garage and im waiting for the weather to break to do my ls swap. i was there yest and i do have the nose off so i guess i could use the crash bar to lift from.
i know the springs are a pain to get in and out so i think i will leave them until i get the engine in so i dont have to take them out more than i have too lol.
once the engine is in i can go from there and decide how i should lower/drop the car
hopefully i can take enough pics and start a build thread!
i havent been around my car in some time since its in another garage and im waiting for the weather to break to do my ls swap. i was there yest and i do have the nose off so i guess i could use the crash bar to lift from.
i know the springs are a pain to get in and out so i think i will leave them until i get the engine in so i dont have to take them out more than i have too lol.
once the engine is in i can go from there and decide how i should lower/drop the car
hopefully i can take enough pics and start a build thread!
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