1992 305 TBI to crate 383 carb swap wiring difficulties. Please Help.
09-20-2014, 03:35 PM
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 tbi for now (SLOW)
Transmission: factory auto
Axle/Gears: 2.73
1992 305 TBI to crate 383 carb swap wiring difficulties. Please Help.
I have a 1992 Camaro 305 TBI car that have swapped to a 383 crab motor. The 383 has a ready to run distributor. The only other electronics on the motor are the alternator and starter. Therefore the original wiring harness is way more than I need. So I have confused myself and I'm unsure of the easiest way to get this to work correctly. Whether it be delete what I don't need in the harness or if someone makes a harness that will integrate.
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
09-24-2014, 05:34 PM
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Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 355, Vortec heads, XE274 cam, 9.8-1
Transmission: 700r4 built for 800-900hp
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Gov Lock, Soon to change
Re: 1992 305 TBI to crate 383 carb swap wiring difficulties. Please Help.
Painless wiring harness kits will work
But its not that hard to delete yours and use what you need, just takes time.
I went through when taking them all off my v6 motor and marked them what they where. I just cut off pigtails i didnt need. Once i had the motor out i climbed in and went about the process of tracing all the wires i cut back to the nearest connection and removing them / wrapping everything back up and getting it back in place.
I forget exactly witch where stock and what i changed because i also removed Vats on my 92.
The for sures....
White = Tach side of distributor
Alternator, I need more info on what plug type of alt honestly, But mine was a 2 wire plug + wire to battery, The wire closest to my positive battery terminal happened to be my exciter wire. So i just jumped it with a 5 in peice of 12 gage.
The other wire is for you volt meter if using aftermarket cluster. stock just uses the voltage powering the cluster for volt meter.
You have a Key on power on wire frrom your ignition going to the Power side of the distributor (Mine is Thick Pink wire but i dont think that is stock color wire, The Injector + power wire will work for this)
Then you have a 1 wire sensor on the drivers side block (Maybe depends on heads) That is your temp sensor, I went with oldschool mechanical temp / oil psi / Trans temp)
Your car is Fuel injected so it has a power kill for the fuel pump, if there is no oil pressure getting read. You can bypass this right at the relay on drivers side under hood.
I think the thick purple or pink wire is for your starter but that is an easy one to tell. its a thicker gauge than any other wire in the hood harness and has a small eyelet.
Send me a message with your Years / specs of car and i can send you the wiring diagrams, I got mitchells on the comp at work and its got great wiring diagrams.
But its not that hard to delete yours and use what you need, just takes time.
I went through when taking them all off my v6 motor and marked them what they where. I just cut off pigtails i didnt need. Once i had the motor out i climbed in and went about the process of tracing all the wires i cut back to the nearest connection and removing them / wrapping everything back up and getting it back in place.
I forget exactly witch where stock and what i changed because i also removed Vats on my 92.
The for sures....
White = Tach side of distributor
Alternator, I need more info on what plug type of alt honestly, But mine was a 2 wire plug + wire to battery, The wire closest to my positive battery terminal happened to be my exciter wire. So i just jumped it with a 5 in peice of 12 gage.
The other wire is for you volt meter if using aftermarket cluster. stock just uses the voltage powering the cluster for volt meter.
You have a Key on power on wire frrom your ignition going to the Power side of the distributor (Mine is Thick Pink wire but i dont think that is stock color wire, The Injector + power wire will work for this)
Then you have a 1 wire sensor on the drivers side block (Maybe depends on heads) That is your temp sensor, I went with oldschool mechanical temp / oil psi / Trans temp)
Your car is Fuel injected so it has a power kill for the fuel pump, if there is no oil pressure getting read. You can bypass this right at the relay on drivers side under hood.
I think the thick purple or pink wire is for your starter but that is an easy one to tell. its a thicker gauge than any other wire in the hood harness and has a small eyelet.
Send me a message with your Years / specs of car and i can send you the wiring diagrams, I got mitchells on the comp at work and its got great wiring diagrams.
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