Okay so i recently purchased a 1987 Iroc-z 305 TPI and its been having ticking noises. I was told that it could just be a exhaust leek however now it has a pretty rough knocking noise.

Havent put too much efforts into it since i got. Heres a list of what i have replaced. Spark plugs and wires, MAF sensor, Cooling fan relay, switch and sensor, thermostat, and thats about it.

Payed 1000$ for the car with 88k miles on it because the guy thought the engine was seized. Long story short it was just a dead battery and starter. Back to the point.

Since the knocking has grown a little louder ive just thought about running it until she dies and replacing the engine. Or should i really put my efforts into bringing it back to life? Got about 1500 invested. Any suggestions? I really want a 454 or 383 stroker if i decide to do anything but im open to suggestions. Let me know!! Thanks

 

If it's a rod knock, then yes, it is time for a 350. Get a '96-up, but pull the heads and check for cracks before handing over any money.

 

I got a rebuilt 350 with a casting number 3970010. Seems way much more simple. Will i even need to mess with the cpu or anything with my wiring when i drop this thing in? From what ive been told all i need to do is put a regulator on the fuel line attach the fuel line and starter wires to the ignition and good to go.

 

Best of both worlds - get an LSx 454 .

 

Depends. What all did you get with the 350? Sounds like you got a carb. How about distributor? You'll need a vacuum/mechanical advance distributor to run a carb (assuming you're not converting to computer controlled carb).

Generally speaking, those 010 blocks were pretty poor. Poor casting, poor machining quality, 2-piece rear main seal (always leak, regardless of what people say, and your '87 flexplate or flywheel won't fit on it), sometimes didn't have the starter mount bolt holes drilled for later (like 3rd gen) starters, and only used flat tappet lifters. And, generally speaking, the heads that were put on 010 blocks were about the worst the factory ever made. Without knowing more about what you have (like head casting numbers, carb and intake type, cam, etc.), it may not have any more power than your 305 had (before it started ticking/knocking).

You didn't say what transmission you have, I'm guessing it's a TH700-R4 automatic. You'll have two issues converting to carb (beyond the regulator you already mentioned): 1) the throttle valve cable (commonly called "kick-down" or "detent" cable, which it is NOT) requires proper geometry on the carb throttle arm to operate the transmission properly - would need to know which carb you have to provide further detail; 2) The ECM runs the torque converter clutch, which needs to operate properly during cruise to keep from burning out the tranny. Kits are available to convert.

Oh, and you can't get any old $25 fuel pressure regulator. It has to be a return-type (which costs a lot more) to keep from burning out your in-tank electric fuel pump.

Back to the heads - Most likely they are something like 882 or 624 casting numbers - very plentiful, and absolute junk. They flow very poorly, have large combustion chambers (low compression ratio), and don't have hardened seats for unleaded fuel (unless expensive machine work was done on them to put in hardened seats & valves). You'd be better off putting your 305 heads on the engine, especially if the engine was rebuilt with dished pistons (it most likely originally had dished pistons).

Personally, I would have passed on this engine, unless you were paid to take it off the guy's hands. Yes, 010 blocks can be made to run, but not without a proper rebuild with flat top pistons (as opposed to a "standard" rebuild with dished pistons), better heads, and a good cam. And, I would never convert from EFI to carb unless this is a race-only car that is trailered to the track.

I'm making a lot of assumptions about this 350 and your use of the car, so if I'm off-track anywhere, you can fill in the details.

Understand I'm not saying this is the wrong way to go, I'm just trying to set expectations (based on the aforementioned assumptions).

 

Its bored 40 over with a holly street dominator intake and edelbrock carb. Not sure what cam is in it but i can tell it isnt stock. I have everything done besides the torque converter kit you are speaking of. Is it called a lock-up kit? Everything will be wired to the factory gauges and i have the proper regulator. Will i have to unbolt the trans and everything again to install this "lock-up kit" ?!??! This is getting stressful. Please help.

 

You won't have to drop the transmission, but you may have to drop the pan, depending upon which kit you get.

www.summit.com, search on "torque converter lock up kit". Then you can filter on "GM", "700R4". Priced from $72 to $195. The $72 one will lock the TC whenever the tranny is in 4th gear.

You can do a similar thing on www.jegs.com. (For some reason, their application filter doesn't include Camaro. Not sure why.)

Personally, I would look for one that includes a vacuum switch that disengages the TCC under load. TGO members seem to prefer the TCI kit.

Disclaimer: I never used an aftermarket TCC lock-up kit, as I've always had factory computer control.