Engine Swap Everything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.

building an engine

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Old 05-20-2016, 10:59 AM
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi stock
building an engine

Start off I'm buying a 355 block from summit racing! ATK put them out heard good reviews. link here http://m.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-sp04
Okay,so you know the engine,here are the heads I have which are dart alum pro 1 200cc currently on the car.So going to use the darts on the new block.I have the 2032 crane cam it's too small of course but still running the tpi intake so it kinda fits.I'm going with the stealth ram intake from Holley.Just having a hard time picking the right cam too make the parts come together and make the power.Hoping 300whp or more! Anyone wanna give me some computer friendly cams i guess.And some advise please feel free to comment.Thanks for looking!
Old 05-20-2016, 01:02 PM
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Re: building an engine

Why not 383 with 200cc? I have a 350 with 200cc and don't have much of a bottom end, just what I had to get me by at the time.
Is the engine for racing on high rpm, or for 88 Iroc, 277 gear way to high.
What's your converter stall at?
Are you tuning it or having it tuned?
Old 05-20-2016, 02:03 PM
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi stock
Re: building an engine

Originally Posted by S10K20
Why not 383 with 200cc? I have a 350 with 200cc and don't have much of a bottom end, just what I had to get me by at the time.
Is the engine for racing on high rpm, or for 88 Iroc, 277 gear way to high.
What's your converter stall at?
Are you tuning it or having it tuned?
The 88 is long gone,have a 87 iroc I brought from a friend for $500 had blown head gaskets.The engine that in the camaro now is a 357 flat top pistons,dart pro 1 200 heads,crane 2032 cam,car has 373! No clue on stall it's small tho.Engine runs great just oil pressure is low.But 383 is out of my budget if I want to upgrade intake&cam&stall
Old 05-24-2016, 11:04 AM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
For $661, I would go with the 383 and your current cam. It would likely make more power with better driveability for less money than the 350 with cam upgrade.

Do you have TPI, or carb?

Last edited by five7kid; 05-24-2016 at 11:08 AM.
Old 05-24-2016, 12:19 PM
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi stock
Re: building an engine

Originally Posted by five7kid
For $661, I would go with the 383 and your current cam. It would likely make more power with better driveability for less money than the 350 with cam upgrade.

Do you have TPI, or carb?
Still have the tpi.I may be overreacting with my current motor.oil psi hot idle 20-25 wot is around 40ish.using 15w50 Mobil synthetic.
Old 05-24-2016, 02:28 PM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
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Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The first thing to do with a low oil pressure condition is to verify the pressure with a mechanical gauge. The factory gauge is notorious for false readings, especially due to sender failure.

But, it provides a convenient excuse for an engine upgrade...
Old 05-24-2016, 02:55 PM
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi stock
Re: building an engine

Originally Posted by five7kid
The first thing to do with a low oil pressure condition is to verify the pressure with a mechanical gauge. The factory gauge is notorious for false readings, especially due to sender failure.

But, it provides a convenient excuse for an engine upgrade...
That's the first thing I did was hook up a mechanical gauge.And that the psi it shows! lil low which why either rebuild or buy a crate motor.But like I said if I didn't hook the gauge up I would never knew.the engine runs smooth and quiet and have plenty of power.
Old 05-24-2016, 04:47 PM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Your idle oil pressure is fine. 40-ish is the factory relief valve.

Low oil pressure is caused either by an oil pump problem, or bearing clearance problems. 20 psi at hot idle indicates it's probably not a bearing clearance issue, because with excessive bearing clearance even a good oil pump won't keep up at idle. With your thicker oil, though, one might expect your high-RPM pressure to be higher.

Drop the pan, replace the oil pump with a Melling M55. Check a few bearing clearances while you've got the pan off if you like.

There I go, dispelling your new engine excuses...
Old 05-24-2016, 06:16 PM
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi stock
Re: building an engine

Originally Posted by five7kid
Your idle oil pressure is fine. 40-ish is the factory relief valve.

Low oil pressure is caused either by an oil pump problem, or bearing clearance problems. 20 psi at hot idle indicates it's probably not a bearing clearance issue, because with excessive bearing clearance even a good oil pump won't keep up at idle. With your thicker oil, though, one might expect your high-RPM pressure to be higher.

Drop the pan, replace the oil pump with a Melling M55. Check a few bearing clearances while you've got the pan off if you like.

There I go, dispelling your new engine excuses...
Okay cool,I know when it cold the oil psi is 60+ when reving.hot reving it will reach 50ish.hot wot steady 40lbs.if only my tach worked then I would know what rpm I'm turning at wot lol.
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