First off, I am stumbling through this process so keep in mind you are dealing with a completed novice. Sorry!

So after 4 years (this is when I pulled the motor) I have finally been able to get to work on this car and now I am left clueless because after swapping to a serpentine setup - a complete set, AC delete/pulley. I find that I have a lot of plug wires left over and the pictures I took to document where everything went years ago were lost. Some wires seem to have went to smog equipment that is no longer on the car and other stuff such as a blower/AC that were removed with the old Vbelt setup. I didnt want to leave the plugs laying around as I dont know what is hot and whats not plus I dont want to short the car out by leaving them laying to the side. What do people usually do with them, cut them off and tape them or ?

Wires I have found a home for - oil pressure sensor, coolant temp sensor, Alternator, starter, distributor. Wire I have not found - the one that goes into the driver side exhaust header.

Also, the coolant temp sensor - the 305 had it by the spark plug hole driver side but on the 350 I put it into the intake manifold bc the hole on the driver side was too big for it. Is this ok or do I need to backtrack on that? I am able to take pictures of whatever you guys need/want.

 

These cars don't have an oil pressure "sensor"; just, a sending unit for the gauge.

Similarly, the thing that goes in the driver's side head, also isn't a "sensor". It's the sending unit for the temp gauge. I'd recommend putting it in the head, like it came. There are 2 ways to accomplish this: you can either go to the hardware store and buy a 3/8" pipe to 1/2" pipe bushing, or, you can go to the parts store and get the sending unit for an older motor. The one for a 69 Chevelle 350 would be perfect for example.

The wiring in the 84 car is ridiculously simple and eeeezy. You will find that there are 4 main harnesses under the hood. 2 of them come from the bulkhead connector below the brake booster. One of those is for the body; lights, horn, etc. You shouldn't have to touch that, unless it's already been touched, in which case you just need to basically un-touch it. The other one is the "engine" proper: starter, alternator, battery feeds toward the fusebox and ign sw, ign, gauges. Then, there's a smaller one coming through the firewall at the heater hose connections; that one is the HVAC system, complete. The 4th, and largest, comes from the pass side windshield cowl, through the area behind the kick panel; and emerges from behind the blower motor. That one is the ECM harness, containing ALL of the computer control stuff on the engine. O2 sensor, MAP sensor, carb parts, AIR controls, knock sensor, coolant temp sensor, distributor signals, and a few others. The O2 sensor is the thing in the driver's side exhaust manifold (these cars don't have "headers" unless you put them there).

If you aren't using the computer-controlled carb, you can remove the ENTIRE ECM harness, INTACT, along with the ECM. Since you unfortunately decided to sodomize the HVAC system off as well, you can do the same with that ENTIRE harness. The other 2 you will have to keep, and should be repaired properly, with new connectors or pigtails where needed, the proper split-loom or snakeskin or whatever applied to everything, the right little brackets and other things put back on it to retain it safely where it belongs out of harm's way, etc.

You will have to change the alt wiring significantly because it will be on the other side of the motor from where it was before.

I STRONGLY recommend that you NOT use dykes on ANYTHING!!! There is NO NEED for ANY cutting of ANYTHING. EVERYTHING unplugs and peels back out of the way. Resist the temptation to cut ANYTHING, AT ANY TIME, ANYWHERE, FOR ANY PERCEIVED REASON, EVER: there is NO reason to cut ANYTHING.

 

Thanks Sofa, the sending unit you mentioned for the Chevelle was dead on. I have done nothing with the wiring and I wont be using a cutter. I do have a electric choke carb so when you say computer carb Idk if that includes it - here is what I have - Intake & Carb .

As for the HVAC, I have a new AC unit but after asking around online I found I junked my accumulator and the coolant types made my head spin so for now I am bypassing it until I get more money to have it professionally done as I really do not understand it. I think the O2 was what I was after, after inspection of the manifolds - down the pipe I found what I believe to be the sensor, bent. Currently the car does have Hooker headers but they also have this hole lower down the pipe on the driver side so I guess I need to be getting another. As for the extra wires, could I just tape them up and stuff them by the blower for now or would you still recommend to completely remove them?

I do have a new question - after getting my engine started, it runs around 2.5k rpm idle and it has fouled out my plugs (they are all pitch black). The idle bolt on the carb is backed off and has made no difference so Im at a loss. Ive also watched some videos and reviewed the manual for the carb for air/fuel mixture screws but nothing seems to help. Im at a total loss atm.

 

That carb is not computer-controlled. You'll have to replace the distributor at the same time along with it. I'd suggest this one. http://performancedistributors.com/p...reetstrip-dui/

Yes the idle screw on a computer-controlled Q-Jet has almost no "authority" whatsoever. The threads are very fine, and the feed orifice is quite small, meaning you can crank on those screws forever and accomplish pretty much nothing. Most likely the rich idle is caused by leaking plugs in the base of its fuel bowl, and the high idle is probably a vacuum leak. But, if you're going to change it out anyway, no sense messing with it at this point.

Yes you can carefully unplug all the computer wiring from everything and roll it up neatly over by the blower motor. Just pull the bulb to get rid of the Check Engine light.

 

I do not have the original motor or anything on that motor in the car at this time. The only thing I have attempted to use is the sending unit and the vacuum lines but have also tried capping the carb but it made no difference on RPM.

Here is a image of what is currently in the car and the mess Ive made - Engine