Would it be possible to use longtubes made for the l98 for this engine? Also what am I missing in the grocery list besides headers?
-383ci
high nodular 3.750 stroker crankshaft
4340 forged 6" long "H" bean connecting rods with ARP cap screw bolts
Clevite 77 rod & main bearings
J&E lightweight forged Sportsman flat-top pistons
Speed Pro low friction 1/16" Moly rings
Fully machined & clearanced 350 4-bolt @ 4.030 bore
Balancing (external) to within 1/2 gram
Dart Iron Eagle heads with 215cc intake runners 2.05"/1.600"stainless steel swirl polished undercut valves, performance springs, guide plates rocker studs & positive seals
Fel-Pro gaskets
Cloyes true roller timing set
Competition Cams solid Magnum camshaft 248/248 @ .050, 294/294 552/552 lift, 110 LC
ARP head bolts
Manley heat treated .080" wall pushrods
Edelbrock Victor JR. intake with stainless steel bolts
Carter 750 CFM carburetor w/mech. choke

Compression Ratio=11.0-1
Peak Torque=495ft/lbs @ 5,000
Peak HP=538hp @ 6,500

also would it be overkill to buy the ford 9" for this application? Im definately going with the th400 just for reliability, but could I just put in a nice eaton posi unit? Or am I going to break axles?
-Nick

 

Make sure the pistons are made for 6" rods.

Forget the Carter, get a Demon.

You'll probably get a 168-tooth flexplate, so a mini starter is the easiest to mount to work with that larger diameter.

Not sure what you mean by "L98 longtubes". Hooker Supercomp 1-3/4 primary longtubes should fill the bill.

Might as well get a 12-bolt instead of the 9" and keep it all GM. The 12-bolt is more effecient, anyway, just as strong, and about the same cost these days.

You didn't mention converter, you'll probably need something in the 3500-4000 stall range. Or suspension mods (Spohn cross-member & torque arm?).

Strip-only, I hope...