Hey all...
I want to know what combo you'd recommend for a new long block for my1985 Carbed. Z-28 .I have $3000.00 I want to spend on engine and trans rebuild.And a friend that races that will assemble the engine for me,and a trans tech at my work that'll do trans for me.I need to stay smog "passable" for So. Cal emissions testing,but I want as many HP as I can get for that amount of money...
Thanks !!!

 

Anybody ???????????

 

I would give you some ideas but Cali emissions are retardedly hard to pass. Sorry bro good luck

 

It'll be tight for $3k, but you can see some decent improvement.

I'll assume that everything is stock now. You'll want to start with the exhaust, because the factory exhaust is not adequate for a 350 (or a 305, for that matter). Headers ~$350, cat ~80, cat-back ~$250. With shipping and the like, that's about $700 (for CARB-certified parts).

That leaves you about $2300 for the rest of the engine and transmission. Not very much, quite frankly. But, assuming free labor, going through the transmission will run about $400 for rebuild and shift kit (might be less), plus $250 for a good higher stall torque converter (a really good one is more like $700). Now you're down to $1650 for the engine.

Cam and heads are key ingredients. A compucam kit will run you about $140. Heads (again assuming free labor for unassembled kits or if you want to pocket port them) probably in the $700-range for decent aftermarket replacements. Roller-tip rockers, ~$90. That only leaves $725 for the shortblock.

I'll say at this point, if your bottom end is in decent shape (regular oil changes, good compression), that you could do all of the above to the 305, and you'd have a great running, smog-legal engine. HP in the 300 range at the crank with the cam I've got.

But, if you still want a 350, you can probably find a two-piece rear main builder shortblock for around $100. A rebuild kit with cast pistons, rings, crank bearings and gaskets from Summit ~$250. Machine shop prices I've seen are $75 for block prep (tanking, freeze plugs, cam bearings), $10/hole for boring, $75 to turn the crank. Resize the rods & new rod bolts, you're out of cash. Incidentals like hoses, belts, plugs, cap, rotor, wires will have to be additional funds. Crank HP in the 350-375 range.

This has left you nothing for intake improvement, so gasket match your stock piece or find another $150 for a Performer or Action + (I'd recommend the Wieand), or try to find a ZZ4 take-off. The stock ignition is also weak, coil & module another $150 or so (or go with Accel, Holley, or MSD upgrade systems). The stock single-snorkel air cleaner is a performance piece-of-trash. These things alone are one reason to keep the 305, improve the other non-shortblock areas, and still stay within your budget.

 

BTW, California emissions are no harder to pass than most places with visual inspection and sniffer.

 

This is my suggestion, read the sig. I rebuilt this car with 220,000 miles on it so you won't need near as much money. Good luck!!

 

I guess I could maybe :hail: swing another 500.00 to 1000.00 if it would really make it that much better.I'd LOVE to have a 383 !!!

 

You will only need $2000 to build the engine if you already have a block and heads. I haven't found anyone who wasn't completely impressed with it and with slicks I should pull mid to low 13's and I haven't even taken the restrictive L03 manifolds off yet, hello high 12's with headers. Good luck!!

 

Nope.I need to get 350 block I only have the stock 305 junk !!!170000 miles...I was also leaning torwards headers and exhaust later..unless i'll have to have the carb done twice,due to exhaust change.I work about 1/2 mile from
Jet Performance,that's who I'll have do the carb for me I have used them before.They're pretty cool to me.