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Prices of building a 305 versus finding and building a 350

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Old 03-23-2002, 06:20 PM
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Car: '88 Firebird Formula
Engine: 360hp/417ft. lb. 350
Transmission: Pro-Built Street/Strip 700R4
Prices of building a 305 versus finding and building a 350

I'm looking for some estimates between building my 305 and swapping to a 350. This is mainly to convince my dad about it. He thinks the difference between the 305 and the 350 will be very little (even though I know he's wrong, but he always thinks he's right ).

I already have an LB9/Auto in the garage. SLP headers and exhaust. If I were to keep the 305 I would be looking at the World Products S/R Torquers for the heads, and Crane recommended their 2030 grind (stopped by their offices since I live in Ormond Beach; pretty sweet, I got to walk through the factory floor!). It's about $600 for the heads from Summit and I think around $400 for the cam/lifters. I'm not sure if we'd opt for the entire rebuild then or not. I have to talk to my gearhead guy. If so, cost of rebuild kit for 305?

And the 350. I'm not really sure about prices here at all. There's a guy around the corner of my street who might be selling his 383 stroker out of his '75 Camaro () which would be nice... I'd have to do some major work to my TPI setup to floor that mother, I'm sure. He described it as "***** to the walls" The guy also has a '67 Firebird 400, in great great shape. Anyways, on the subject of the 350... I'm sure I could junkyard one for about $500. There's plenty of places around here. How much for a rebuild? And the problem there is how much are the heads gonna cost? And the cam? Should I go for a roller block? I'm kinda confused since my knowledge of engine building is around... none at all. So any help/recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

My dad is demanding a price list between the two options before I go through with anything. I need to figure out how much either one would run so I can find a supportive job as well

Thanks!
Old 03-23-2002, 11:11 PM
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You really need to do some more of your own homework, as all we could give you is "what I found" and "you should be able to" answers.

I'll say this, though. If you need to rebuild the shortblock on the 305 (rings, bearings, pistons, etc.), then don't bother. Go get a 350 block. It simply makes more bang-for-bucks sense to get a 350, that's all. Check with a machine shop that you might have do the work - they very well may have a 350 block sitting around that they'd work over for you.

305 rebuild kits typically cost a little more than 350 kits, just because 350's are more popular and plentiful. But, not enough to offset buying the 350 block (you should be able to do a lot better than $500, especially for just a shortblock - see, I already did it...). If you sell the 305, then it could actually be cheaper to go 350. The World 350 heads will cost you about the same as the 305 heads. If possible, get a roller block - the cams are more expensive, but they just work nicer.

Crane gave you a good recommendation for a TPI engine. You should be able to reuse roller lifters, though, as long as they aren't giving any trouble now.
Old 03-24-2002, 11:33 AM
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Car: '88 Firebird Formula
Engine: 360hp/417ft. lb. 350
Transmission: Pro-Built Street/Strip 700R4
My LB9 right now is in great shape... EGR occasionally passes a code (meh) and it burns a little oil on startup occasionally (leaky valve seals). I guess I will have to start looking around town on 350 prices. My main problem is convincing my dad that the power difference between the two is worth it He thinks the change will be negliglbe, even though I know he's wrong.

About heads for the 350... how good are the World 350 heads? I read an article in Super Chevy about the 305 Torquers which is why I planned on going with those for the 305. A guy at my church that builds engines swears left and right by AFR heads, but those are pretty expensive it seems. And he recommends alumminum. My mechanic says cast iron is fine if you aren't really concerend with weight differences, and the cast iron heads are a lot less likely to crack.

One more question... the 2030 is a good cam for the 305 or the 350, correct? That's what Crane's guide has listed. Modded 305 stick or 350 auto... alright, thanks for the help guys.
Old 03-24-2002, 07:46 PM
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If you get 1 HP/CID out of a 305, the same mods to a 355 will produce more than a 50 HP increase. That's due mainly to the valve shrouding caused by the 305's small bore, which isn't a problem with a 350 (and you can get still larger valves in a 350).

AFR's are great heads. Just more expensive. Cast iron typically makes more power than aluminum with the same compression ratio, but better aluminum heads will make more power than average iron heads. $'s/HP, iron typically wins, though.

The reason the 2030 is a good choice is the TPI, and that applies to either a 305 or 350. If you spend the big bucks to get a TPI system that will wind to 6000 RPM's, then go with a 2050.
Old 03-24-2002, 09:50 PM
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but the 305 is a hi compression short stroke engine that luvs too rev and thats where you get your torque and those heads are pretty bad azzzzz.:lala: :lala: :lala: :hail: :lala: :lala: :lala:
Old 03-26-2002, 09:23 PM
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Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
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Originally posted by Halberto45
but the 305 is a hi compression short stroke engine that luvs too rev and thats where you get your torque and those heads are pretty bad azzzzz.
The 305 is a small bore, not a short stroke. It's the same stroke as a 350, but due to the small bore it doesn't have the torque nor the HP.

All it has is a little better MPG, but not much better. I dunno. IMHO, GM made a big mistake with the 305. They should have just kept the 283 and been done with it.

AJ
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