Has anyone ever put these in before? Im trying to put them in right now as im dropping the motor in but it seems I have to pull the tranny and starter off inorder to do so... but if anyone can give me hints on how they did it it would be greatly appreciated! thanks!

 

I don't have an answer to your question but I have a question for you. Where is this IROCNparts LTD.? What brands of parts do they carry and how are the prices? How is the service?

 

Basically I am like Thirdgenparts but I am located in Canada! we sell all the same used parts as they do, however, I have a GREAT connection to a local wholesales so I can guarantee to beat Jegs prices by at least 10%! Just give me a part number, about 24 hrs and I will have a price for you! and most likely a shipping quote!
thanks!
feel free to call me @ 604-729-2446
or irocnparts@shaw.ca
our website is in the process of being made, as for customer service I beleve you will have to find out for yourself! =-)

 

Just what I wanted to hear to bad Im broke and going to school right now but I will keep your number and email. Where in Van. is it located? I live in New Westminster and may stop to check things out.

 

I have those headers...Make sure you have the starter off and the headers slip in from under the car. Just on the passenger side, make sure you take off the #8 slip tube so you can easily slide it in from the bottom. The drivers side very easily goes on from the bottom, just make sure you don't have the spark pulgs or coolant temp sensor installed cuz you'll most likely break 'em trying to get the header in.

 

thank you very much! did you have to replace the starter with an aftermarket one? or did it clear it? also did you have to notch the lower control arm bracket or anything liek that?

 

Also did u have the tranny on when u slipped em in? would it make a difference

 

just the answers i was looking for

 

Well I'm using an LT1 starter, which is smaller than a stock SBC starter. I did have the tranny hooked up, a 700-r4 exactly. It slipped right on. You really shouldn't hae to grind much, I had to do a little on my k-member, but it's not a stock k-member. It should sit perfect in a stock engine bay.

 

I installed mine too as I put the motor back in the car. No tranny attached. I had to install the starter as I installed the passenger header, while it was loosely on the motor. Also, I have AFR 190 straight plug heads. I had a major problem with plug #7, it did not fit. All others were okay. I had to make my own 'shorty' plug for that cylinder. I also had to dimple the pass side collector a little to get it away from the front chassis. Also, I put header wrap on the drivers side collector to protect my clutch slave cylinder from heat. My buddy's caught fire!!

The LTs are great performers and sound far better than shortys in my opinion, I'd never go back to shortys............

Good luck!

 

what the hell is the #8 slip tube? and you say it was pretty easy to install them?

 

The #8 tube is detached from the headers so you can easliy install the passenger side headers. Then when the headers are installed you take the last #8 primary tube and slip it on and bolt it to the motor. It doesn't leak although it looks like it will. I have angled plugs so I didn't have any plug issues.

 

do these headers clear everything alright?

 

It clears everything of mine...It probably won't clear your starter though, and I'm not sure about the AC box as I don't have one anymore.

 

Phills87IROC,
Was arapping the collector all you had to do for the T-5? There are a lot of questions reguarding the fit of Hooker SC/LT and a T-5.

 

I dont know about you guys, but I felt COMPELLED to reply! I have the stock K-member and control arms and I had one hell of a time putting the Long tube headers in!! My buddy and I pulled the motor 6 times for header clearance issues! The #4 (I think) primary tube had to be dimpled, we had to move brake lines a little bit out of the way, the driver side control arm had to be notched, I had to take off my factory oil cooler (oil filter boss) and run a non-oil cooled oil filter boss (one of the header primary's was up against it and the header flange angle was off a few degrees of being flush with the head. It was a pain in the ****!! But, there is a bright side. By doing all of this, I have perfect header allignment (I've been using the cheap graphite gaskets that come with the headers and have NO leaks). The HP gain was AWESOME and it sounds KILLER!!! Maybe I had this many issue's because I went with 1 3/4in primary instead of 1 5/8in.?? Oh well. The moral of the story: No pain, no gain! Dont go with a shorty, you're robbing power and sound! Just my $.02


Mike (1bad91Z)

 

1bad91z: Did you have any problems when it came to the transmission? I see you have a t-56 but im stuck with a t-5. I have hedman lt's that i want to put on and ive heard so many different things that go wrong and go right that im totally confused.....

 

I only have experience with Hooker headers. I had no problems with exhuast/transmission related issues. I used a mufflex TPI y-pipe and had my local exhaust shop custom fit / fab it all together.

 

Anyone using these headers and Spohns torque arm? If so, what did you do for an exhaust system?? Thanks

 

I'm not able to use a Spohn torque arm because I had to cut sections of my SPD x-member (I swapped in a T-56) in order to get my y-pipe to fit. The spohn torque arm mounts in the front to the tranny x-member and it's welded there. I will end up using a Random Technology adjustable torque arm, LCA's, and LCA relocation brackets.

 

is there any way to make the Long Tube Headers work with the spohn torque arm. It seems like nobody has any luck with this but i'm kinda leaning towards the spohn torque arm because i have a T56 and would like to have the torque arm attached to the crossmember. Please let me know if any of you have this setup.

 

You can use spohn torque arm with the T-56. However, you will run into 1 or maybe 2 problems.

1. You will need a completely custom y-pipe. I used a mufflex TPI-Y and I still had to cut corners off of the bottom part of the cross-member on both sides in order to get the y-pipe to hang a little higher off of the ground. So in other words, I think you would rather hack up a $100 spohn x-member rather than a $350 torque arm.

2. The second issue would be ground clearance. If you have a custom y-pipe made and dont hack into the x-member, it will hang WAY too low to the ground and will scrape on everything!

If you use the spohn arm, you may want to think about using ovalized exhaust pipe (like NASCAR uses) to make your custom y-pipe. You will get more exhaust ground clearance and it flows just as good, if not better (cause you can go bigger with less ground clearance issues).

The lowest part of my whole exhaust system is the passenger side header collector and there's no getting arround that. Thats the way you would want it.

But, you could go with the Random Technology adjustable torque arm, spohn t-56 x-member, a jegs bolt to the body drive shaft loop and not have any of the problems that I mentioned above! And, that setup would be just as effective as the spohn torque arm.

 

let me get this right, you can use the random technology torque arm with the mufflex y-pipe with no problems. Thanks for the advice.

 

Yes, you can use the random tech torque arm with no problems with the mufflex TPI-Y and no prob for the advice! Advice is free, too bad parts are not!

:rockon:

Mike (1bad91Z)