Gutted CAT?
Gutted CAT?
Is it possible to take the stock CAT and ram a pipe down the center of it and throw the peices that come out in the trash and then put it back on and just have it there for cosmetic reasons? I was thinkin about taking off my CAT and seeing what it sounds like and if it sounded good I wasnt going to put it back on or I was going to shove something through it and put it back on gutted? Is this possible?
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 131
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From: Sioux Falls,SD
Car: 1985 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R-4
Axle/Gears: Posi Richmond 3.73
Yes, that is very possible. My cat started to rattle about 2 years ago so i just took a long rod a broke the rest of the ceramic apart and emptied out the cat. i didn't put a pipe through it and it sounds fine. i will say that i have a 3" catback system so it is some what loud when i'm on the gas. my .02
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,081
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From: Florida
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Yet another 350 TPI
Transmission: Borg Warner 6 spd
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Sounds like crap if you just gut it and leave it alone. Either put a pipe through it, or take it off completely.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 3
From: Florida
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Yet another 350 TPI
Transmission: Borg Warner 6 spd
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I had to loosen the cat once before, and I had the same problem. I soaked the hell out of the bolts with WD-40 and then I went at them with a big torque wrench. I was really surprised how hard they were on there, but they came off. Be careful though, cause you can break them if you aren't careful. Hell, I'm surprised I didn't break them.
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I took a 3" piece of straight pipe and put the heat shield shell around it from the old cat. Looks good when you peek under the car, but won't fool anyone with it on a lift unless they are a complete idiot. Good for the ocasional roadside inspection though
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 344
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From: Vermont
Car: 1986 W69 Special Edition
Engine: 2.8/ECM/Int/Exh
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Anyone notice a loss of low-end power after removing the cat? I have 3" catback, and no pull untill about 2.5k rpms or so, then the nut kicks in...
I can't say, because I converted to TPI, added headers,3" exhaust, ported TPI heads with a 3 angle valve job, and stuck an LT1 cam in all at the same time, and am using the apyp bin. It definitly has way more low and high end grunt than the L03 did with just the 3" cat-back, and pulls hard right up until it smacks the rev limiter at 6K. It does have more after 2K, but it's hard not to break the tires loose off idle. If emissions ever come here, I guess I'll find out though.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 315
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From: Huber Heights (DAYTON), Ohio U.S.
Car: 83 T/A WS-6
Engine: LG4 305
Transmission: T-5 Manual Clutch
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Positraction
I have pipe with converter ends welded on and it is the same length as the converter for a bolt in. My car is an 83 LG-4 and with the converter which was original until 2 years ago you could stick in neutral and try to rev the motor and the tach would move so slow. Now it pulls hard and tach actually moves quite a bit faster. The throttle response is a lot better too, with the addition of a Flowmaster which sounds great.
I put a piece of pipe inplace of my cat with the flange from the cat welded on one end. Overall performance improved and throttle response ie acceleration was noticeably better.
If I needed to have a cat to pass a visual inspection I think I would just knock the ceramic honeycomb out. I dont believe the difference between this and fitting a pipe would be much.
Simon
If I needed to have a cat to pass a visual inspection I think I would just knock the ceramic honeycomb out. I dont believe the difference between this and fitting a pipe would be much.
Simon
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