modification for headers?
modification for headers?
i was thinking about putting some headers on my TA and was wondering if any parts have to be taken off in order for them to fit. I have heard that the AC has to come off, but i wasnt sure about that. Also, what are the best headers for your money and performance?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Tucson, AZ
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: Can you say stroke?!?!
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
It depends really. The AC doesn't have to be removed, just unbolted and moved out of the way. You may have to remove your starter and you could possibly have to move the steering linkage out of the way. What I would recommend is while your installing the headers, replace the motor mounts. You might not have clearence on some things due to old/worn mounts.
When it comes to money vs. performance, it usually depends on how much $$$ you have. I personally like SLP and Full length Hookers but that's my personal choice. Your going to get the same type of answer from every body here. It also depends on what you plan on doing with the car. You'll be looking at 1 5/8 inch headers and all I recommend is getting them coated.
Hope that helps, need any more info just holla.
When it comes to money vs. performance, it usually depends on how much $$$ you have. I personally like SLP and Full length Hookers but that's my personal choice. Your going to get the same type of answer from every body here. It also depends on what you plan on doing with the car. You'll be looking at 1 5/8 inch headers and all I recommend is getting them coated.
Hope that helps, need any more info just holla.
what exactly are you talking about when you say emissions?
Are you talking about those lines that run into the exhaust manifold near the block?
Also, inyour opinion, what headers are better, hedman or hooker?
Are you talking about those lines that run into the exhaust manifold near the block?
Also, inyour opinion, what headers are better, hedman or hooker?
Last edited by joshp14; Dec 2, 2002 at 07:17 PM.
If you install the headers from the bottom up, you won't have to remove much at all. I think the starter was all we had to remove, since we had the motor mounts unbolted and jacked up the motor about 4 inches. I'm really convinced this is the easiest way to do it, but it takes a lot of equipment. Lucky us we had a lift and a tall tranny jack and some 2X4s, and air tools.
Removed the AIR system since they are non-air shorites, and put the 02 sensor in the straightpipe instead of welding the bung into the headers. Less hassle that way, plus reads from both cyl. banks that way. Not really neccesary on a TBI car but helpful if somethings went wrong. MUCH easier to change down there too. Still heats up as fast as it did before.
Removed the AIR system since they are non-air shorites, and put the 02 sensor in the straightpipe instead of welding the bung into the headers. Less hassle that way, plus reads from both cyl. banks that way. Not really neccesary on a TBI car but helpful if somethings went wrong. MUCH easier to change down there too. Still heats up as fast as it did before.
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I coated them myself with VHT 1500 and it has held up great. $10 for 2 cans. Just make sure before spraying anything on to either sandblast or chemically strip off all the shipping paint, otherwise anything sprayed on top of it will come off right with it.
Originally posted by HrdRockA4305
I coated them myself with VHT 1500 and it has held up great. $10 for 2 cans. Just make sure before spraying anything on to either sandblast or chemically strip off all the shipping paint, otherwise anything sprayed on top of it will come off right with it.
I coated them myself with VHT 1500 and it has held up great. $10 for 2 cans. Just make sure before spraying anything on to either sandblast or chemically strip off all the shipping paint, otherwise anything sprayed on top of it will come off right with it.
VHT is not a coating. VHT is a High Temp Paint. It doesnt do anything for extending part life, or reducing under hood temps. Spend the 180-200 bucks and send your headers to jet hot. Its a ceramic coating that is applyed on the inside AND outside of the header. And if they are brand new headers Jet Hot guarantees them for life.
You guys must get commision from Jet Hot:)
VHT is a high temperature resistant paint. When properly applied ( and you don't bang it up when installing the headers ) it will last a long time. I had my headers bead blasted ( sandblasting will work just as well ) , sprayed 2 light coats of VHT flat gray on them and tossed 'em in the gas grill ( per instructions ) and cured the paint before I installed 'em.
It doesn't reduce underhood temps like coating does, but there were people putting headers on cars LONG before Jet Hot and the like became available.
The ONLY real benefit to coating is some underhood temp reduction, and the cosmetics. And coating is NOT bullet proof.
Unless you plan on changing spark plugs with the engine hot...then coating comes in handy
You can also use header wrap...but alot of people will tell you how bad it is. Same thing as VHT...use it like it's designed to be used and you'll be satisfied.
To me it's a $180 I'd rather spend towards something else. To each his / her own.
I have the Hedman smog legal headers ( I removed the AIR tubes though ) and I'm pleased with the fit. Passenger side was cake, took 2 minutes after removing the alternator wire and the engine ground wire. Driver's side wasn't that bad. I removed the steering shaft and had to bend the brake lines a bit. You'll need to modify the AC / Power steering bracket on the pass side ( V belt car ) but it's just a matter of making a spacer ( EASY ) and cutting one leg off the bracket.
Power gain was VERY evident immediately. Gas mileage has picked up a bit too.
All in all a VERY worthwhile and affordable mod, and one of the most logical and effective first mods.
HTH
It doesn't reduce underhood temps like coating does, but there were people putting headers on cars LONG before Jet Hot and the like became available.
The ONLY real benefit to coating is some underhood temp reduction, and the cosmetics. And coating is NOT bullet proof.
Unless you plan on changing spark plugs with the engine hot...then coating comes in handy

You can also use header wrap...but alot of people will tell you how bad it is. Same thing as VHT...use it like it's designed to be used and you'll be satisfied.
To me it's a $180 I'd rather spend towards something else. To each his / her own.
I have the Hedman smog legal headers ( I removed the AIR tubes though ) and I'm pleased with the fit. Passenger side was cake, took 2 minutes after removing the alternator wire and the engine ground wire. Driver's side wasn't that bad. I removed the steering shaft and had to bend the brake lines a bit. You'll need to modify the AC / Power steering bracket on the pass side ( V belt car ) but it's just a matter of making a spacer ( EASY ) and cutting one leg off the bracket.
Power gain was VERY evident immediately. Gas mileage has picked up a bit too.
All in all a VERY worthwhile and affordable mod, and one of the most logical and effective first mods.
HTH
i also forgot to ask, how is this kit for your money? is that nickel plating any good? better than paint? Also what are these lines that go into the exhaust manifolds, are they the 'emissions'?
Last edited by joshp14; Dec 4, 2002 at 06:53 PM.
The headers I bought were used. They were part#68481.
Since you have the serpentine belt system, your install will be a bit different, might not be as much room to get the headers in there initially, but I'm sure they will work fine.
You'll need to go to Home Depot etc and get some thick walled pipe to use as spacers for your braces that bolt on to your exhaust manifolds. I used 3/8" ID pipe. It was like $2 for a 8" piece. Install the headers, bolt everything up, then bolt on the braces you took off, then eyeball how much space you need to make up. Then cut the pipe to length, put a washer on each end, and use the long stud / bolt that came out of your original exhaust manifold.
HTH
Since you have the serpentine belt system, your install will be a bit different, might not be as much room to get the headers in there initially, but I'm sure they will work fine.
You'll need to go to Home Depot etc and get some thick walled pipe to use as spacers for your braces that bolt on to your exhaust manifolds. I used 3/8" ID pipe. It was like $2 for a 8" piece. Install the headers, bolt everything up, then bolt on the braces you took off, then eyeball how much space you need to make up. Then cut the pipe to length, put a washer on each end, and use the long stud / bolt that came out of your original exhaust manifold.
HTH
You're definately right, VHT is no where near gonna have the effect of a true coating. I just wanted to keep the toobz from getting rusted up and looking nasty. Actually I just bumped my thread about it, brought it back to life from back in may!
The only problem with VHT besides that it doesn lower the under hood temps is that the inside of the pipes can still rust. And they do. Thats what makes Jet-Hot stand out so much to me. The lifetime guarantee helps too...
Also a good point.
I'm a big follower of the saying "You get what you pay for" and I'm sure its very true in this case. But hey, I spent $10 and I'm happy with the result for that. Good enough. Most people I know just let the things rust
I'm a big follower of the saying "You get what you pay for" and I'm sure its very true in this case. But hey, I spent $10 and I'm happy with the result for that. Good enough. Most people I know just let the things rust
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 716
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From: Parrish, Florida (Glad it ain't Vegas)
Car: 94 Corvette
Engine: LT-1
Transmission: Freakin Automatic---For Now
I've got the Edelbrock shorties on my car and I love them. I had mine coated by JetHot and couldn't be happier. If you go with the Edelbrock's they come with an install kit and a y-pipe. The only thing I bought were some good header gaskets from Napa, other than that everything you need is right in the kit with the Edelbrocks. All the emissions and accesories were retained in my car, and the headers caused no problems with any of them. I had to take a lot of stuff off in order to get them in, but everything i took off went back on. The Edelbrocks come with new A.I.R. tubes pre-installed so you won't need your old ones. It took me around 10-12 hours total to get mine in, but I like to drink & work at the same time. Here is some free advice, replace the motor mounts and the plugs while you have the headers off. Also if your car smokes on start-up, do the valve guide seals while the headers are off. I did those with them on, and ther were a couple holes that were damn near impossible to get the comp guage hose into to hold the valves closed while I had the retainers off. The #5 hole took me almost 45 minutes to get the hose in the hole. Here are some pics of mine.
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