how hard is it? they didnt come with the y pipe, it says to use the old OEM pipe, but that pipe on my car is one of the reasons i got an exhaust because it is all cracked and dented. so i think im gonna take it into the exhaust shop after i get the headers on. did anyone else do this? anything i should know of before i install these things, im having a hell of a time taking off the rusted *** catback as it is, im probably just gonna saw the thing off. any tips or anything? any info appreciated!

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1990 G92 5spd LB9 - 3.42

Accel Ignition/Wires (8.8mm), Advanced Timing, TB Bypass, Ported and Gasket Matched Plenum, Synthetic Motor Oil, 160 Thermo, TPIS Airfoil, K&N Air Filters, Centerforce I Pressure Plate and Clutch
14.4 @ 94mph w/2.0622 60ft

Soon To Come

Edelbrock TES Headers, No Cats, Edelbrock RPM Series Catback, AFPR, Underdrive Pulleys, Relocate MAT, Short Throw Shifter, Intake, Cam

Looking for Nelson...I need your email LEN!

 

I was under the impression that all headers required some sort of y-pipe, either they come with one or you have someone make one. I didn't think any of them fit the stock pipes.

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90 IROC 5.7l (L98)
ram air, K&N's, air foil,Flows

LIKE A ROC

http://members.nbci.com/IrocZgarage/home.htm

 

Sup Craig......
Well if it was my car I would have bought the headers for the single 3in cat and converted so it would come with the mandrel bent y pipe then I would have the shop make me a "test pipe" to go in place of the cat. Hehe like I have. Just have the muffler shop do the pipe and get yourself some "test pipes" to go in the place of the cats.

Before you install anything take a good look at how everything is connected. That way it will be easier to put back together, maybe even take pictures if your forgetful . Be sure to note the orentation of the alternator and A/C brackets(LABLE THEM) and smog pump tube routing. Get a jar of antiseize, 12pt wrenches NOT 6pt, 12pt sockets in 3/8 and 1/2 drive, a 1/2 and 3/8 drive breaker bars, swivles for both drives, extensions of all lengths, 2 cans of penetrating oil, a Sawsall with metal cutting blades, a good hydralic jack and jack stands, new cut to fit plug wires with ALL 90 degree boots, new plugs, new O2 sensor, Made For You centerbolt wire looms (very nice product), and a buddy to help you.

A day or 2 before you start, get the penetrating oil and soak ALL bolts about 3 times a day till the day you begin; manifold, collector, cat, hanggers, and muffler clamps. Before you do anything be sure to disconnect the battery FIRST. You do this because when you drop the header in on the passenger side it comes real close to the starter and will short if it comes in contact with the BAT terminal. Now jack the car up as high as you can and support with jackstands. Unbolt the y-pipe and cats. Start on the driver side and pull the plug wires and remove the manifold bolts you soaked in penetrating oil, and accessary brackets. 6 bolts and it will pull out from the top. On the passenger's side remove the smog pump diverter valve, plug wires, and the rest of the manifold bolts. If at all possible just unbolt the dipstick and leave it in place, just bend it out of the way when necessary. 6 bolts and the manifold will pull out from the top. Back to driver side, unbolt the steering shaft and put aside, pull out old plugs but DO NOT install the new ones. Coat all the new header bolts in antiseize and don't forget the lock washers, thread the back one in with the gasket on. Slip the header in from the top on the last bolt and line up the gasket and start the rest of the bolts EXCEPT the front 2 bolts. Keep header loose and install new plugs. Torque the bolts as tight as you can with whatever tool is easier: ratchet or wrench. Then reconnect the steering shaft. The reason you install the new plugs AFTER the header is on is to avoid breaking them as the header drops in. Back to passenger side, there is a solid coolant line running along the frame rail locate that line and unbolt the anchor for it so you can move it back and forth slightly. Thread last bolt with gasket in and slip header in from the top, it will go in easier if you start it as far forward toward the raidator as possible. With all bolts in loosely except the first 2, install the NEW plugs and then torque the header bolts remembering the lock washers. After both sides are in reinstall the A/C bracket(HOPE YOU LABLED IT) using the supplied long spacer and longer bolt and lock washer locating which of the front 2 empty bolt holes it lines up with. Loosely place it on the A/C and header and torque it as tight as possible then reinstall a bolt in the empty hole. Do the same on the driver side for the alternator. Now bend the dipstick back so it lines up with any manifold bolt hole, you may need to use the shorter of the spacers for it to fit. Remove bolt and attach dipstick tube. Install the Made For You wire looms to the back 3 valve cover bolts and then connect one pluge wire at a time routing it through the wire looms and then cut to fit. Do not do the front 2 plugs yet. Be very careful to keep the plug wires off the headers at all costs. After the back 2 plug wires are routed reinstall the smog pump and then route the front 2 plug wires around the smog pump and cut to length. Reroute/reconnect all smog pump hoses and check fan switch sensor wire. Install the Made For You wire looms on the back 3 valve cover bolts on the driver side and route the plug wires in a similar manner. Reroute/reconnect all smog pump hoses and check guage sensor wire.

Now loosely assemble y pipe covering all bolts in antiseize. Install dougnuts on pipe and install loosely on car. Install NEW O2 sensor in bung on driver side using antiseize on threads, DO NOT overtighten.

Now for the catback: lower the front and jack up the rear and secure THE BODY on jack stands letting the rear hang. If you do not know how give me a call and I will come over, check your email for number. Get out the Sawsall and cut the over the axle pipe, unbolt all hangers, and muffler clamps and remove. Install the new catback using antiseize on all bolts and pipe slip fit connections. Route the intermediate (long) pipe over the axle and clamp to the over the axle (curved) pipe loosely. Hang rear of pipe and have a friend hold the muffler in place as you install the tail pipes and hangers. Keep all connections loose but snug. Install cats/"test pipes" and line every thing up to maximize ground clearence and rear axel/suspension travel. Readjust tail pipes so they are straight and torque all clamps and hangers. Recheck all connections, hoses, and plug wire routing and reconnect the battery. Start her up and enjoy the sound!!!!!!!!! Go for a drive and listen for any banging of the exhaust on the underbody, have a friend come along and listen to pinpoint the source of the sound. More than likely the exhaust will need adjusting. If all is well have fun and enjoy!!!!!!!!!
Len

[This message has been edited by Like a ROC 89 (edited June 18, 2001).]

 

Damn Len, I printed that ****, the biggest problem is that i dont have an air compressor so the bolts that are rusted on their are a pita. Im gonna goto my friends house maybe this saturday and work on it.

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1990 G92 5spd LB9 - 3.42

Accel Ignition/Wires (8.8mm), Advanced Timing, TB Bypass, Ported and Gasket Matched Plenum, Synthetic Motor Oil, 160 Thermo, TPIS Airfoil, K&N Air Filters, Centerforce I Pressure Plate and Clutch
14.4 @ 94mph w/2.0622 60ft

Soon To Come

Edelbrock TES Headers, No Cats, Edelbrock RPM Series Catback, AFPR, Underdrive Pulleys, Relocate MAT, Short Throw Shifter, Intake, Cam

Looking for Nelson...I need your email LEN!

 

You dont need an air compressor to get the rusted bolts out. Get yourself a 6 point socket in 1/2in drive and a long breaker bar. A breaker bar is just a longer bar with the fitting for the socket at the end. Unlike the ratchet you have to take the socket off every time you turn it. However because it does not ratchet it has a smaller head to get into tight spaces. Soak that bolt in penetrating oil and use the breaker bar to get it loose......