I'm finally getting a chance to install my Edelbrock TES headers and so far I got the whole system from the engine to the I pipe removed. Needless to say it's being a bitch. Now that I'm installing the right side header I got a couple q's,,,,,

Are the header bolts supposed to go in hard??? I can still screw them in, they're not getting tighter but they are going in hard.

I can't seem to get my dipstick tube aligned down where it connects to the block. I have tried bending it little by little but nothing. I don't wanna keep doing this for the fear of breaking the tube.

Those are my only two q's so far. But I will be working on this all night most likely so I can get to the exhaust shop tomorrow morning and have them weld the pipes. I thought about buying two new cats but without emissions testing here it would be a waste of $$$. I'm just gonna gut them. Thanks for any replies.

 

Well I got 'em installed. The car just ran for about 10 minutes. I almost choked there was so much paint burning off! Anyways everything seems ok so far. One thing I'm concerned about is the driver's side header is very close to one of the brake lines. About quarter of an inch I would say. Would this be a problem?

Also the car is running at high idle. I'm guessing it's cuz there is no exhaust hooked up right now? It hasn't spit out any codes though. Now I just gotta gut the cats and get to the exhaust shop.

 

Since, you've started and let it cool. Go over each bolt again and retighten them.

 

instead of running gutted cats it might be better to just put pipes in their place..

 

gutted cats flow worse than a high flow cat. get the 3" pipe and it will be more power full and sound a hell alot better.

the problem with your brake line. my boss had had the same problem. it was touching the headers, we had to re bend one of the tubes and re route it arond the header so now its like 3" away from the headers,,
and the car could be runnin so high cause there no back pressure on the exhaust

 

Well the job's complete already and I'm pretty satisfied. The car launches so much quicker. I had Midas make me a couple pipes from the pipe extensions that came with the headers, to the cats. They're not mandrel bent obviously but they are definitely better than the stock POS I had on there before. About the cats: I ended up doing a semi-gut job where I gutted half the stuff out of each cat, and left the rest in there. I didn't wanna take a chance of spitting out a code 32. The brake line isn't touching the headers, it's about 1/4 inch from it now. I'll try to move it some more. And about the high idle: Well after I started up the car I went inside to back it up, but the brake pedal was hard as a rock. I thought messing with the brake line caused it to stop flowing fluid for some reason, but then I said to myself "damn this feels like it has no power assist". Went to check the brake booster hose and I had forgotten to hook it back up.

 

ok cool as long as everything is ok now

 

There is absolutely no way gutting your cats could cause any engine code. Good thing you found the brake booster line.

About the dipstick, did you get it in? I know it's much easier to pull it in from below with something on the part that stops it at the block than push from above.

 

Well from all the reading I've done on this and other forums it seems like a lot of people who have gutted cats have problems with the ECM setting code 32, and then they talk about burning their own chips so that the ECM won't recognize it anymore, or something like that. I wanted the install to go smooth without anymore problems.

And yeah I was able to get the dipstick in from above, after bending it a certain way. But I did leave out the two metal bars that go from the manifold bolts to the alternator and A/C compressor on each side. I have to bend these in order to make them fit but I have no vise at home. What is the purpose of these bars and would leaving them out be bad for any reason?

 

If they set a code 32 it's unrelated to the cats. There are no sensors downstream of the o2 sensor, and a 32 is an EGR code if I'm not mistaken.

Those are support braces for the accessories. They're probably nice to have, but not necessary. I haven't had them in years. I'd still put them back in if you can, though.

 

Yeah I'm gonna go to the shop I used to work at and bend them there when I get a chance. Thanks.

 

So after doing all that work, which sounds like it was a pain in the ***, would u still do it again yourself, or just take it in next time and have it installed.

Im just curious, cause im eventually gonna do headers, and full cat-back, but unsure whether to attempt it myself.

 

I would definitely do it again myself. Actually I will be removing them again whenever I get enough money to get them coated.

1. The first time is always difficult, then it gets easier.

2. I wouldn't pay someone 400 bucks, or more, to do something that I'm capable of doing in my garage with my tools and knowledge.

If you're mechanically inclined, I would say try it yourself first. Just try to remember where everything hooks up to and keep all the stuff you remove in order. You may have to bring it to a shop for the Cat back work, but if you got all the clamps and everything hooks up then might as well do that youself too. I only brought it to Midas cuz I don't own a welder or pipe bender.

And also, the work was MUCH easier having removed the big A/C box and the smog stuff.

 

Oh ok, thats good to hear. Well when i do get them, im gonna at least attempt to put them in myself, and if i cant then i'll take it in. But like u did, getting it welded i'll have to take it in too.

Its gonna be expensive to get full exhaust man, i wish i had the money now. I dont wanna just get cat-back then get headers later on, i want everything at one time, and get it over with. Headers to cat-back. Plus it will feel more powerful if i do it all at once, then if i split them up.

Thanks

 

I think that's a good idea.

 

Ya but in the meantime i cant really do anything else to car until i get the exhaust. I still wanna get sub-frame connectors and CAI, its a matter of which comes first now.

 

SFC's are next on my list. I want to get rid of all the rattling and noises that's typical of these cars and almost everyone that has them say they are worth it, although a few say they haven't noticed any difference. I would get SFC's first, CAI and then exhaust. After I do SFC's I'm gonna look into putting in a more aggressive sounding muffler and thicker tailpipes/tips.

 

Ya the thing about SFC is that there not to expensive, which really wont back track me from saving the money to get exhaust. AND as for the CAI, id really like to do those $50 mod ones where u can do it yourself rather than spending $200 to get on from SLP.

Hell i can just cut open my current stock air box and let more air in, wouldnt that do the just as good? Bad thing though is that id mess up the air box, which id like to keep all original parts intack and in good shape in case i had to put them back in for whatever reason.

Stock air boxes shouldnt be pricey to replace anyways right? If not i'll go right now and rip that apart!

 

My CAI cost less than 10 bucks and it looks and works much better than the stock piece.

 

Really! Hey u got some pics or info on how u did that? I know u have a later Firebird, so hopefully its compatible, but id still like to see your masterpiece, hehe.

 

My CAI. 3 inch elbows and section of PVC pipe.

 

That looks sweet. Where u get that stuff, like a Home Depot place? So u got 2 pieces of 3 inch elbows, a PCV pipe (How long?), and what kind of filter is that?

Plus u obviously painted to right? I wonder if can get something like that too, but like in chrome, or some metallic polish.

Give me details man, im gonna do that .

Oh and im sure u noticed a difference right?

 

Hard to say how much HP I gained with this on a mildly modded engine, but comparing sizes, this thing has to take in more air than the stock piece for sure. I went to Home Depot and got two 3" 90* elbows and about a 13" section of pipe. The filter is K&N. I originally had it attached right to the TB but this was sucking hot air instead of cold. I painted it black but I'm sure you can do some chrome color if you want.

One more thing. Your car should have a MAF sensor so this setup won't work. You would have to find a way to keep the sensor inline with the rest of the stuff. My car didn't have any sensors in the air duct so I didn't have to worry about that.

 

AH **** your right! Damn MAF crap i have to deal with, man! Maybe i should just save up and get the damn SLP then. Man i got all excited, i hate the fact that every single ****ing thing has some sort of sensor on it, it pisses me off sometimes.

Oh well, besides i just bought the K&N filter, might as well put it to use. Ah wtf am i saying, its Winter, i aint driving it for another month and half at least.

 

http://87tagta.tripod.com/coldair.htm

I would try that before shelling out big bucks for an SLP one.

 

Hey thanks man, ya i saw that too, but kinda ignored it since yours seemed more simple. Of course this was before the damn MAF crap. Looking at that guys setup, it doesnt look all that hard.

I dont see why id have to take it to a exhaust shop to have them weld a piece in. I mean cant i just follow your setup from the TB to where it straightens, and then do his setup from there, kinda mixing between the 2.

Ya i might go ahead tomorrow to Home Depot and pick that stuff up, in fact i'll print that page and show those guys what i need, so i get exactly what i want. Plus if i have to weld, then i'll show the page to the exhaust shop guys, along with the picture and they'll get the idea on what i want.

Oh oh, i think im getting excited again.

Hehe, thanks man again.

 

Hehe. Yeah it don't look that bad. Post some pics of it when you finish.

 

Alright man, thanks for all the help even though this was your topic, lol. I'll just have to take back the K&N Air Filter (hopefully they will), and order the one he has, the 9 inch cone. OR maybe get a 6 inch cone, and maybe i wont run into his problem of fitting. I dont know i'll decide that tomorrow.

So the next time i drive my car i should definitely feel a difference. I'll have a complete tune-up done, which includes:

Spark plugs, ignition wires, fuel filter, PCV Valve, 180 Thermostat, MSD coil, rotor and cap, oil and oil filter.

Plus, hopefully the new custom CAI.

Alright man, im off to bed now, if u reply i'll read it tomorrow morning, later.

Ya ill get pics for sure

 

Alright I'm off to bed too. Gotta get up early to earn that money that makes all this modding possible, lol. Later.