I am getting an intermittant code 44 during idle. I went to remove the O2 sensor and found an exhaust nut wedged against it so tight I can not get it unscrewed. Is this normal? The only way I can see to correct this is to have some one hold the nut with a wrench from above and unscrew the bolt out from underneath. Did someone install something wrong or what?

 

Hello Dave, I live in San Leandro that 02 sensor can be very hard to take off. Just had mine replaced and two cats but had it done at shop. Try spraying some lubricant on it it might make it easier.

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SLP 1 5/8 Headers,Dual Catco cats,ATR catback exhaust,SLP cold air box,Crane 1:6 roller rockers,Bosch plugs and MSD wires,MSD Coil,Fastchip,Underdrive pulleys,Borg Warner 9 bolt 3:27,Corvette Servo,ROH ZS 17X9.5 Goodyear GSC,s 275/40/17

 

Well i found out its not normal to have that nut there. After I pulled all apart, I found the threads were all stripped in the exhaust port and thats why someone stuck a nut on it. I drilled it out, tapped it and put a heli coil in it and re-installed a new 3/8" bolt. Now I do not need a nut on top wedged against my o2 sensor. and it only took me two trips to the hardware store and three hours to do. And the best part is I still have the same problem with code 44( Lean Exhaust) after changing the sensor.

 

You cleared the codes first, right?

 

Yes I cleared the codes and monitored the o2 sensor with a scan tool. most of the time during idle or driving down hill it will drop down to 0 volts and stay there until I accelerate then it will rise back up. I dont know what would cause this.

 

Should have did headers instead of fixing the manifold and it would have taken just as long.

 

Ok, if I knew what headers are and what they do I probably would have. Would someone like to give me a quick summary?

 

Now someone correct me if I'm wrong, because I don't have headers on my car... Headers take exhaust gas directly from each cylinder and collects it into a single (usually 3 or 4 inch) pipe outlet. I don't exactly know what makes a header a header and not a mainifold. Headers will increase your power greatly compared to other exhaust modifications. I do not believe they are legal on pollution controlled cars without modification (especially in CA).

My addition: headers are not cheap, in the 500-2000 price range normally... not really comparable to changing the O2 sensor.
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1984 Firebird - Daily driver, 305 LG4, T5 - Hurst short shifter, Edelbrock 600 CFM Performer Carb - Edelbrock Pro-Flow air filter, gutted cat, IROC 16x8 Wheels, Goodyear P215/60/R16, AIWA bargain basement (from Sears of course) CD player, Fuzzy dice, Eight-ball shift ****
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First Kill: 2001 Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon (1 person vs me with 2 passengers)

[This message has been edited by ChillPhatCat (edited August 13, 2001).]

 

Almost right ChillPhatCat. Dynomax, Edelbrock, Heddman, and SLP make emissions legal (50 state legal) headers. The emission legal headers usually run more than the non-emission headers by about $150. Most of the non-smog headers can be picked up for less than $200, but requires modification to the rest of the exhaust system to fit. The smog-legal headers run around $300, except the SLP which are closer to $500. These bolt up directly to the stock exhaust, and have all the AIR tubes, and O2 sensor fitting, and the Y pipe necessary for fit.

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1984 Trans Am, Goodwrench 350, TES Headers, Performer Intake, Flowmaster 80 Series, Holley 600 cfm & vacuum advance, and T5 with short shift