I am half way done, I have the drvers side manifold off, but the passenger side is giving me problems, on the very back bolt there is about a half inch of thread showing, so a standard socket wont reach and theres not enough room for a deep socket and I can barely get a wrnech on it and it keeps slipping and I can't strip it.

Also, there are 2 braces well there were, one on the A/C, the other on the alternator.
. How did you manage to get these braces back on? use the origional bolts or just forget them?

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Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat, BF G-Force w-rated tires

 

this may sound crazy but it isn't. It's cheaper to remove the heads and cross over
than to buy the tools you need maybe even an easy-out extractor "not cheap" taking the top half of the motor apart it's not all that bad. and it's alot easer to take the manifold bolts out as well. just incase you twist one or two off in side the head....

 

as for the ac brackets...umm tough luck im thinking. just kidding. ive heard there are ac brackets for headers, try SLP. if you are like me and your ac was dead anyway and you didnt want to recharge it...you can get the ac delete bracket for 15 or so from GM...8 for me but i think about 15 for you. hope that helps. oh and on a last note...you need either the slp or GM remedy, no can do otherwise. and i know, i just ordered my delete bracket today

 

Remove the top half of the motor, geez I'm glad I got it done tonight before I came back in, all I ended up doing was hacksawing part of one bolt to get a standard socket on there and the other I realized a small metal piece keeping me from getting the wrench on it, it took 2.5 hours to do but those bolts are off and the manifolds are out, though I broke something under the passenger manifold, some senor bolted into the head any idea what it is?

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Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat, BF G-Force w-rated tires

 

on the pass side with the funny looking clip wire attachment? i might be wrong but i think it is the knock sensor
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/gdm/

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87 z28 bowtie aluminum 420small block dry sump crower lt. wt. knife edged crank oliver lt wt rods brodix track 1's super ram intake slp 1 3/4 headers accel dfi art carr 700 r4 3.42 gears ssm sub frame/ladder bars.....other parts on the way ,soon to be finished!! couple more weeks!!!

 

hmmm if it was driver side i think it is water temp sensor...could easily be wrong

 

The space between the headers and the bracket is a little tricky. I went to a hardware store and baught some thick steel tubing that was about as big as the stock bolts. I had to use the stock manifold bolts with the spacers on them. Then I could use the brackets.
All you have to do, is cut the spacer to the thicknes of the stock manifold where the bolt goes trough, and then subtract what space the header takes up. That will leave you with the spacer length.
I'm trying to explain this the best I can, but if you understand it, good job detective.

 

I had to solder the connection to my knock sensor because there wasn't enough room for the connector itself behind one of the primaries.A true PITA! And make sure ALL wires,wire looms,cables,etc. do not rest on the headers,or can come loose and touch the headers. I burned my temp sensor wire one day,my battery to starter cable the next day,and a plug wire fell on one of the primaries the day after that!

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'91 RS 5.0 TBI
New paint-solid black
ROH Snyper wheels-17x9 wrapped in 275/40/17
Eibach sportline springs
ASCD SS hood, High-rise Z-28 spoiler,
Hooker super comp headers,dual 3" exhaust,two 1-chamber Flomasters,Iroc sway bars,wonderbar,140 Iroc gauge cluster,Iroc steering box,Auto meter gauges,dual guage A-piller pods,open air filter,AFPR,smog delete
TBI mods,180* thermostat,
383 stroker in the works

President-Austin 3rd Gen F-body c.c.
Austin 3rd Gen F-body c.c. message board at
www.hpsmotorsports.net
See my car and others at www.ride4life.net

 

No that is the temperature sensor. I thought I broke it. well I bent the metal tip on the sensor and the wire's casing at the end I shattered. I plugged it back in and wrapped it in tape, but it still works so im alright.

Once you get it all back together you can test out wheather your fan switch is working, just plug it all in and see if it comes on or not. Its not that expensive to replace.

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89 camaro 305 tbi, flomaster 3 chamber cat back, gutted cat, Edlebrock TES Headers, Exhaust cutout, Edlebrock open element, 160 degree T-stat, Hurst Dual Gate shifter, Lakeland LCA's, and a Stage 2 FastChip.

2 kicker comp 12"'s, polk for the rest. Phoenix gold xs2300 to subs, kicker impulse 404XI to 4 speakers, pioneer DEH- P7000R head unit, and finally a 12 disc changer. Full leather interior from http://www.MrMikes.com