I was going to change my spark plugs. I read the posts on these boards about how to do it easily. I could not get my hands to the plugs from the top or from the bottom. I figured, I'll just take off the EGR stuff so I can get my hands down there. I started in on that. I got the driver's side disconnected--what a horrible chore! I made up my mind not to put that stuff back on and take it off again next weekend when I was going to put my headers and exaust on. So I unbolted the drivers side exhaust manifold--I think; I took out two bolts and nuts off two studs, but the manifold is still on there. What was GM thinking when they designed these cars? Why is there sheet metal blocking the exhaust manifold bolts??

I can't get a wrench to the EGR tube going into the manifold by the #4 cylinder. Plus the #8 cylinder EGR tube is stuck very tight. Have oiled the threads, but it won't move.

I am going to cut the #4 and 8 cylinder EGR tubes off with a dremel cutting wheel tomorrow.

Any tips on installing headers? I know some people have said go up from the bottom. Others have said take off the valve covers and they slip right in from the top. I think I would rather go from the top, will I have to get new valve cover gaskets?

I am putting a sort of shorty dual exhaust with one cat on each side under the front floor and a 2 1/2" Borla XR-1 Sportsman right behind each cat. I am exiting the exhaust out each side.

I would really like to finish this tommorow (but my u-bends from summit probably won't get here by then anyway)--I bet not a lot of people have dual exhaust tips, but any tips on headers? The car is a 1991 formula 305 tpi 5-speed and I just put twenty thousand actual miles on it. When do I need to change plug wires? What kind? I got the car a couple months ago from a guy that had been storing it in his barn. I am planning on changing all the fluids very soon. Any recommendations on what kinds I should use?

Thanks, y'all.

 

well I can tell you what the sheet metal thing is. It keeps your plug wire from getting fried. Also keeps that wire cooler insteaf of being so closs too the exuast.

 

So what, when I put my headers on, do I need to put that metal back on? I hate it. Do all cars actually have that nonsense? I know older cars sure didn't. I guess I could use some heat shield wrap, but do I really need it? Aren't there some super-mega-ultra spark plug wires I can use?

 

get some high heat silicon ones, just as long as there not touching they should be fine, im ordering plugs myself becaust i fried two wires, make sure to get ones with all 90° boots, im just getting the wsummit ones

------------------
Trent
---Car---
89 Firebird/305 L03 TBI A4/t-tops
Open Element Edelbrock Aircleaner w/ K&N air filter/Summit Chrome Valve Covers
Edelbrock TES headers 3" out/flowmaster American thunder 3" exaust/Catco cat
---Stero---
Pioneer DEH-P730 Premium
Infinity 2way 4652 4x6's/Pioneer 4way ts-a6985 6x9's
profile cl640 110x4

 

Thanks, y'all. I did a search for spark plugs and wires before I ever started on this and one guy (I forget who it was) said he got straight boots and it kept the wires farther away from the hot stuff and made it easier. Plus, the plug for either the #3 or #5 cylinder uses a straight boot, stock.

What do you think? Straight or 90*? (or I've also seen a larger angle like 135*)

Thanks