What would be the disadvantage of me buying a $99 set of shorty Hedmans (vs. a nice set like SLPs or maybe not quite that nice...)?

I was thinking it would be cheaper to buy cheap headers b/c if/when they rust off in 4 years, I can install another cheap set. My time doesn't cost anything, coated stainless steel does...

If you don't think that's good logic, do you think $99 Hedmans are better than no headers at all? I'd appreciate your thoughts...

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Joel Geerling
Red 91 Formula, 305 TBI
Edelbrock 14x3 open element
TBI 1/2" spacer
Hypertech street chip
Crank/Alt Pulleys
*
Exhaust is next!

 

Better than factory manifolds? Yes. I have found, though, that my time has become more valuable and rare as time goes by. You may regret your decision after a couple of change-outs.

You should also know whether emissions will ever become an issue (if it isn't already). A good set of coated CARB-exempt headers and y-pipe will increase performance, maintain emissions-legality, and last for a long time.

Another consideration is the y-pipe. You may spend more getting $99 headers and a custom-fabricated y-pipe than you would simply getting a complete kit with headers and y-pipe made for each other.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4, 2200 stall TC. Ported World 305 heads, Crane PowerMax cam. ZZ4 intake, oil pump, pan & baffle. Accel HEI SuperCoil & module. Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback w/dual-opposite Flowmaster. 2.93 limited slip, Spohn SFCs. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily year-round driver. Best ET, speed TBD...
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7:1 forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 700 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

 

ditto 5.7, on most all of the parts back when i was young and stupid and thought "well there the same part, just ones cheaper, i'll just get the cheap, whats the diffrence?" well i one time got a pair of cheapy headers, they started rusting in about 3 months, they sat like garbage and had to get my exhaust all rebent and a pain to put in, in the long run if a spend the few extra $$'s up front it would have saved me more money as i had to get the exhaust rebent and not to mention the pain to put in and starting to rust so fast. , from now on i allways get high quility parts and know they are going to fit and work like they should, getting parts the best way to put it like the fram commercials,.."pay a little more now, or a LOT more later"

[This message has been edited by TempesT68 (edited November 13, 2001).]

 

when i called summitt racing equipment they quoted me $600 plus for a set of SLP`s with the Y-pipe install kit and all needed items to put them in. I installed a set of Dynomax shorties and a custom dual exhaust for a total of $300 bucks. Now, when my 400 is finished i will seriously consider the SLP`s but for now my 305 will breathe fine with what ive got.


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87 IROC-z 305 TPI
Borg Warner T-5 fresh rebuild
10-bolt 3.73 Richmond gears rebuilt GM posi,
formerly BW 9-bolt w/3.45 gears(broke it)
Ported Plenum and Runners Homemade AFPR
ACCEL 8.8 wires, High output coil,and cap & rotor
Bosch platinum + 4 plugs
Ram Air w/ K&N filters,
MAF sensor screens removed, TB coolant bypass
Polyurethane tranny and torque arm mounts
Gutted Cat, Dynomax Headers & catback w/custom tips
K&N oil filter,Mobil 1 synth,Factory Oil Cooler, Futura GLS Super Sport tires 265/50/15 rear and 235/60/15 front mounted on 86 monte carlo SS rims.

406 siamesed TPI in progress