Hedman $100.00 headers from jegs, header wrap from wherever, 2 $5.00 cans of high temp ceramic based paint from any parts store (at least 1200 degrees- this is not also known as ceramic coating your headers by the way.) 58" sidepipes from j.c. whitney for $150.00, done. Any questions?

 

Be carefull with wrapped headers, not only do they cause your headers problems(warping/wearing out from the inside) the wrap makes it so the heat from the headers cannot escape causing problems...

Also header wrap soaks up any oil and other things that get on them, and flammables under the hood, not in the motor = BURNING CAR....

 

They probably could have soaked up oil and stuff, but that's partially why I painted over them generously with the ceramic paint (aluminum colored). As for them holding in heat, that's what I want them to do.

 

Expect the smoke to keep on rolling if you "generously" coated them with the spray bomb crap. Regardless of what the can says, it's crap and btw, it certainly isn't ceramic coating. It's a far cry from it. If you didn't strip the original crappy wally-world black off the headers too, it's will flake (burn and smoke) off with all your pretty aluminum. Sadly, primer is more heat resistant.

High heat spray paint can handle descent temps but, usually not impressivly more than standard Wally-world 98¢ paint. The 'high temp' is usually a flash temp or the max temp the paint can take intermittantly (like a speakers RMS and Max wattage rating). 'Curing' it through baking might yeild slighty better results but, I seriously doubt any real durability (like Cermakrome, JetHot, Powder Coating, etc) by following the directions.
If you want to see first hand results. look below (I did not recommend using spray bombs but... )....

 

When I was saying they soak it up, I meant Future stuff after they are wrapped, oil leaks...changing oil and it spills....tranny fuild..power steering fluid....anything that can spill on them....will...

 

again i ask, if it cannot handle the heat then why is it called high heat manifold paint? Theres a friggin pic of headers on the can , whats up with that false advertising? So far my recent billion coats of that same stuff you have in the pic has been working, i didnt just spray it on, i had to bake the headers after each coat for an hour. Well 3 cans times how many coats and how many hours later, they still look good.

 

Dunno why it didn't work for you. Fine for my friend's '67 Mustang. He painted his with the exact same stuff, but flat black, baked it, painted again and baked again... no problems at all. Still looks fresh, just a little smoother for some reason.

EDIT: He started with a LT set from uhh... Hedman or Hooker, one of the two... anyway, it was a set that the factory painted black and he had them sandblasted, ground off all the bad welding inside and out and then sprayed them as descibed above. Has yet to have a problem.

 

There is also an engine they are connected to. No where by that image do you see it say "for headers". It's not false advertising, reread what I said about the temp.

I wasn't the applicator but, I don't think it would have changed the results any. Also, I've noticed that flat colors (high temp or not) seem to be more resiliant to heat than the aluminium.
I am not saying everyone is going to have the same results, it's just the many times I've used (aluminium) the stuff, it smokes, burns and flakes off shortly after the initial 1st heat cycle (similar to the above pic). I used the alum. on my I-pipe and baked it with a jerry-rigged oven using my reddy-heat and some sheet metal. THe stuff lasted 2 times of driving around the neighborhood.
Maybe I'm just unlucky with the crap.. who knows...

 

yes you are correct, i meant say the can i have from Canadian Tire, it says right on it hi heat manifold paint. Itsa from duplicolor so maybe they label em different here. But then again i could still say false avdertising. Coz hi heat manifold paint is meant for exhaust or intake manifolds im assuming, of course exhaust gets hotter than intake but oh well