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Header installation questions.....

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Old Sep 2, 2003 | 10:18 PM
  #1  
KYL98's Avatar
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Senior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 726
Likes: 3
From: Northern Kentucky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Header installation questions.....

I recently purchased a 92 Z L98/700R4....It has completely stock exhaust from the manifolds back to the original muffler and tailpipes. I've never had to install headers on a completely stock car....so I have a few questions. First, do either of the brackets that bolt to the stock manifolds need to be modified?(A/C bracket, alternator) Im planning on going with the Hedman shorties and Ypipe for non-air. I will also probably be taking off all the AIR hoses, pump and fittings.....Is this going to be very difficult?? Im also planning on putting a new catback on(Flowmaster Force II) and an off road pipe in place of the cat.....What do you think all of this will sound like on a stock L98??? How much power(est) could I expect out of this modification? Thanks in advance guys.

If there are any other important things to know about header installation, please give me a shout. I would really appreciate it. Thanks again:hail:
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Old Sep 2, 2003 | 11:02 PM
  #2  
darbleinad's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 0
From: Ailsa Craig, Ontario, Canada
Car: 84 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
you should pick up about 20 hp. i have no idea about the A/C bracket, cause i havent had an A/C car before. but it will likely have to have somthing done to it to get the headers in there.
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Old Sep 2, 2003 | 11:31 PM
  #3  
redbird_400's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,231
Likes: 1
From: Manassas, VA
Car: 89 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305 - Demon 525
Transmission: 700R4
I found it easier to remove the brackets and hoses the put the headers in. Still it was a pita... I got some eldelbrocks on mine and.. RAW!!! The nickle plated onces were the same price but it said TPI only. hmm... I didnt know why so I got the black burn away paint ones. Later found out the only difference was the opening to the back of the headers was a 3" instead of a 2 1\2" OMG! I was replacing the whole exhaust! I Woulnt of mattered! >.< man... could have had some shine... and 3"... but instead I got nasty looking rusty headers.. pff.. burn away paint.. looked like my engine was on fire lol. Oh well...

Anyway For my headers the only thing I had to replace was the dipstick. The bolt that holds the dipstick on was aperently a header bold.. hmm nice suprise coz it didnt break away on the outer side of the dipstick, it broke away on the side close to the block and kept grip on the dipstick. So I twisted and twisted till my dip stick finnally broke off lol. I coulnt do anything about it coz I allready bent it. I would sugest soaking that one in WD40 for quite some time b4 taking a wrench to it. Be aware that some of these bolds are a BIG PITA to get to, expecially the back ones. >.< And they make spark plugs very fun to change. I had a good old time when my engine flooded with water through a leak through the powerbuldge hood. small bold on the air cleaner wasnt good enough.

But Hey dont take my word to it and trust it compleatly, your headers might stick out in more places then mine but usually there will be some kinda paper work with the headers that will tell you in such cases. If not, just go try it, the stock manifolds are quite easy to pull on and off, with the expection of the dipstick in my case. pff... 30 bucks at the dealership for a new dipstick with the case. *srugs*
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Old Sep 3, 2003 | 04:55 AM
  #4  
allboutspeed's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Mandarin, Florida
Car: '87 IROC Z-28
Engine: Horse **** 305 for now
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
Get the Hooker 2210's, they are about as close as you can get to straight drop in. The only bracket mod required is to cut off the rear "ear" off the ac support bracket (20 min). Plus a LT1 starter sure helps with clearance.
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