hooker long tubes they were a pain in the a** to install, specially the pass side, and the starter was another story.. i have a powermaster ministarter, that is a tight fit too

 

mine were custom made with singular primaries so installation is alot easier but i also have a tubular k member which makes the headers easier to change then spark plugs.

 

Well... Just thought I would chime in here since things have changed for me....

I just recieved my coated Hooker LTs today... The SLPs I had won't work with standard angle plug heads, which my Track 1s happen to be. So I have to figure something else out and I figure what better time to step up to a set of long tubes.... No matter what it is going to cost me money so I might as well get it over with and dial these in .

Anyways.....

My car sits about as low as yours - maybe a tad bit higher, but no more than 1/4" from the looks of the angle on your front LCA in those pics.... What I am going to do is weld up a custom crossmember for my T56 that leaves lots of room for the Y-pipe to run straight back from the collectors into a Y and then on into the intermediate pipe.... I don't recall where I got this, but I attached a pic of what I want to make. The only thing I would like to do is make another rearward mounting point for it to bolt to the subframe of the car in a third place and add some supports to the part where the trans mounting "pad" is....

Anybody know who's car this is and how it has held up? I figure it should hold up fine on any car but even better on mine since the tailshaft of my trans no longer has the load of the torque arm on it (my TA mounts to my S&W SFCs).

Thoughts?

 

i think those are hedman longtubes, i like that crossmember but it won't work in my car.... unless i decided to swap a t56 in my car..

 

Whats the status on this? Did you change out the springs?

 

Not really a "status update" but I got nowhere in my inquiry to those Stock Car fabrication places. So I've decided to give up on LT's for my lowered car and get a set of shorties. I just dont want to chance it since my suspension is even lower now ( adding 2" drop spindles hehe). Sorry guys! Decided on the Hedman 68470's into a MAC 3" Ypipe. I'm also no longer getting the 427, decided to go another route .... Thanks for the info though guys!

 

Hey Crazy, let me know how those hedmans work out for you. I'm currently shopping for new headers.

 

Kandied, lets see some pics of that Tubular K-member :-D

 

How did your Mufflex Ypipe fit?????? bolt in?

 

The mufflex y pipe comes in pieces with no in structions. it required patcience and tweaking to get it in and fitting good,if your car is lowered there might be clearance issues.

 

mike what kind of pics are you looking for....they look like everyone elses. i left them powdercoated black so it was easier to clean.

 

I have the same headers on my car, and it sits about normal height and it sucks, i mean if you have anyone else in the car with you you must take speed bumps at a dead stop and creep up/then slowly down and they will drag the whole time, i cant even imagine a lowered car,

you can pay a muffler shop 'under the table' to put duals on it if theyre good (i could get pics of my setup & show the dents in the bottom of the primary tubes)

i am thinking about switching back to shorties, your only way to solve your problem in my opinion is to get a diff oil pan and buy shorties if you want a low rider : / cause it only takes that one dip in the road or pot hole

nice car though

 

The key to getting the Y-pipe to fit with some sort of decent ground clearance is to fab up your own crossmember for the transmission...

I have some pics of my setup in the sticky thread for installing Hooker Long Tubes. Ground clearance with regards to the Y-pipe is great on my car. The collectors of the headers and the crossmember of my S&W SFCs are much lower than the actual Y-pipe and I probably could make it even better if I wanted to. I didn't really bother to get too radical with my home made T56 crossmember since that crossmember that goes between the two subframe connectors that the torque arm bolts to is insanely low anyways and makes me turn tail and run from all but the smallest of bumps.