I have been reading a lot about people needing y-pipes for the 2460 Hooker shorties. I bought a pair of these for myself because of that beauty of a collector on the 2055 Hooker shorties, yikes!

My problem is that I have always used custom y pipes with no factory mounting hardware or converters. So, I am going to have to setup a factory exhaust on my car and make one-offs. Getting setup with jigs is out of the question unless there was a serious interest for these, which I don't see.

I need everyone's opinion of what type of connection should be used at the end. I could always leave it as a piece of straight tube, but that would mean the end-user would need to weld, which I think is a turn-off for a lot. I am going out to scout a factory exhaust in the junk yard and set it up. The last time I saw a factory exhaust connection, which was a picture to make things worse, there was a piece of flat stock that slid over the I pipe tube and bolted underneath the sub frame, maybe even the transmission.

Before I go, this will start out as two Hooker 3-bolt Collector Reducers 3" to 2"-1/2", then move through MIG welded aluminized mandrel bends and straight tubing, merging into more mandrel bent/straight aluminized 3" tubing. The prototype I have now does not have any mandrel bent 3" tubing. My merge is two 2"-1/2" tubes which go into an oval 3", expanded to fit. After the merge, the oval piece comes back to a normal 3" tube.

I should have pictures at the end of the week. I am thinking about $100 bucks for this should be about right, but no promises! Making this work for everyone might prove difficult!

Thanks for your time guys, and girls!

Mike

 

You are overlooking some things:

The 2055 collector is fine once you do the fit check and open up the ball to 2-1/4" centered on the down-pipe mount. When the 350 shortblock goes in, I'll be finishing the job based on the carbon marks deposited over the past 3 years (about 1/8" at the worst site).

Primary sizing is stated in OD. 2460's have a thicker gage wall primary tubing, so the actual flow area in the primaries is smaller than the 2055's.

Price estimates before the project starts are usually low by the time the project is finished. The extra $200 or so the 2055's cost vs. the 2460's is a bargin.

But, there's always the "IDIM-S" factor, so have fun.

 

Thank you for those points, but I think those should be directed at people looking to buy 2460 headers, not people already owning them.

This is not the type of advertisement you might be thinking of. I am not saying, "Hey everyone, now you can buy 2460 headers because I will make you a y-pipe."

I mean this to be for people already having the headers, or those with a y-pipe they would like to improve by purchasing one from me.

As a matter of fact, I am not in this to make very much money at all. What drove me to doing this is my own dismay that no one offers a piece like the 2055 headers. The fact that I have read so many posts from people who probably have the talent and desire to learn welding and how to setup the y-pipe, but don't have the time, the money to go about it really struck the chord to bring me to this.

While I am talking about money, I can firmly say that my price will not be $200, $175, or even $150. Though, I cannot say it will not be more than $100.

Thanks for reading,
Mike