Hi guys

does anyone happen to know the part number for the cat AIR tube for a dual converter car?

thanks in advance!

 

Are you talking about the A.I.R. pipe that splits to each of the cats? Or the pipe that comes off the check valve? I am going to assume the earlier.

The part number for that pipe is AC Delco 219-75 or GM 10077543. It runs over $100.

 

yeah I figured it would be quite expensive

is there an alternative? could one be fabricated? ive got to pass the cali sniffer so everything has got to be there as it should.

one more question - is there a book/CD etc that I can get to look up those part numbers?

 

If your talking about the hard air tubes an exhaust shop can fab them for you or buy the right size hard line and rent a tube bender the hand held one.

 

The part number could be found using the F-body CD (which contains most of the Parts & Illustrations manual) or by going to the AC Delco website. Alternately use a online catalog from a parts store like AutoPartsGiant.

Yes, I believe they could be fabricated, but not as easy as some because this pipe diverts into 2 pipes.

The finished part should look like this, .

HTH

 

is that a ac-delco part # 219-75?

 

Yes, it is.

 

where can i find tubing for this? looks like 1/2" to me.....



also what sort of tool is needed to make the ends bigger so they can slip onto the tubes coming from the converters?

 

I guess you have decided to try and fabricate the part.

1/2" OD tubing is correct. I don't know why you couldn't use standard copper tubing from a hardware store. It's under a dollar per foot and if the color bothers you can paint it an aluminum-color after bending. You will need a tube bender capable of taking 1/2" tubing. For sake of simplicity, I would use a tee with compression connections at all three points for the split in the tubing.

Here's an picture of the fitting I'm describing. Sorry if the picture a little big, I directly linked from Lowe's website.


A flaring tool is what you need to expand the ends of the piping. As always, I would try to borrow the tools you need.

Do you still have the pipe that leads from the check valve? I ask because that will determine how you want to finish the single-pipe end of this part.

Also is the original part you are trying to replicate still somewhat intact? If you have a model of what it looks like, then the bending will be much simpler to do. Otherwise you will have to really on pictures or diagrams.

HTH your plumbing project. You may also need a tubing cutter if you can not cut the tubing with a hacksaw without flattening it.

 

JG,

well, I havent decided for sure if im going to fab it up myself but i thought I would figure out what it would cost me. Im thinking it may be easier to fab one up after I install the converters rather than trying to make the pipes in the pictures meet the converters as I install them.

copper....that just might be an option but is there any place I might be able to find stainless?

one other problem I face is expanding the end where the tube will go over the tube from the converter. I have to make the inside diameter the same as the outside diameter. I assume there is a tool for that but im not sure of what its called.....maybe a swager?

Im gonna go to home depot/lowes/sears today and poke around to see what they have

 

You are correct. Expanding the whole tubing end, not just the lip, is actually called swaging. A simple punch-style swaging tool should work if using copper tubing. You use a flaring bar to hold the tubing and drive a dual-diameter punch into the tube's end. Using a flaring tool by itself may also work.

I would definitely add the A.I.R. lines after you have mounted the cats.

SS tubing will be at least three times more expensive and be more difficult to work. You may also have problems buying it in small quantities. Thin-walled SS tubing may be difficult to swage without splitting.

 

copper may be the easiest option, although my concern would be that stainless was used for a reason on this car so i would tend to want to replace what I have with something just as good.

I dont see anything going wrong with a copper line like melting/corroding since theres copper header gaskets that are used....