Just got my exhaust system in the mail yesterday. Ordered from Summit, excellent by the way. I ordered a Catco 9118 cat, Hooker 2055 headers, and Flowmaster 17233(or 17223, can't remember which). I'm guessing it's all bolt on except for the o2 sensor. What did you guys do for the o2 bung? Can you buy a sensor replicator instead of putting in the 02 sensor? How important is it?

 

Its VERY necessary, unless you change to a carb. You can have an O2 bung welded to your headers for not much money. Do that.

 

Allrighty then. Sorry the last post look so dumb, wrote it last minute at work. I've seen o2 simulators on different cars, and everyone said that they were ok since that o2 sensor did nothing. I know this is a different car, so I had to ask. I hate asking for work like this in Las Vegas because I don't know any shops that would do this, and if I did, it would take a while since they have "people in line" and I would probably get ripped off. Does anyone happen to know of a place in Vegas that would do this work for a decent price, and how much would it be?

 

The rear O2's are seen on LS1 cars and late LT1 cars. They monitor exhaust temps to communicate to the ECM that the cats are working properly. GM didn't put them there for the fun of it and they serve a purpose. On those applications you can run a simulator because the ECM just needs a steady resistance value to tell it that the cats are still there and working. The O2's in front of the cat communicate to the ECM so that it can correct the air and fueling needs of the motor. Those are needed and cannot be removed. Same goes for your car. However, your car has one O2 and it is before the cat and it must remain there.

Your Hooker 2055's should already have an O2 bung welded in place. Look at the lower drive side collector.

 

Hot damn, you're right. Thank you for correcting me in my infinite ignorance. I was researching 97-03 cars before, and that's why they used the simulator. The bung is there, never looked at that collector, my friend did. I would've noticed that. I just saw posts about how people had to get the o2 bung welded into their headers, and what I thought were 2055. Thanks

 

This was probably for Hooker long tuber headers. Glad you are on the right track

 

If you are having a bung welded into your headers, I'd advise using a heated O2 sensor, because usually when the bung is installed on the headers, its farther downstream from the heads, where its also alot cooler. A hot O2 sensor works better.

 

Adam is right! you will thank yourself later.

 

I'd have to disagree. The O2 bung on the 2055s are at about the same place as the O2 bung in the stock y-pipe. My Hooker 2055s have no problem heating up a standard AC Delco O2 sensor. To be fair, I do have Jet-Hot coated headers which probably retain heat a lot better than uncoated headers, but the collector is close enough to the exhaust ports to make me think that they still wouldn't have any problem heating the O2 sensor (the exhaust gas is basically right at the collector as it exits the port).

On long tube headers, a heated O2 would be a must.

 

Now I'm wondering about the o2 sensor wire. Since the bung is on the other side of the collector, can I just extend the o2 wire? If so what kind of wire should I use?

 

There is enough slack in the stock harness. You won't have to extend the O2 harness lead.

 

I forgot to add thats what I was talking about