If you have encountered any of these problems, please let me know how you solved it

Glad this is just the test fitting phase-Havent found anything a 'dent' would solve yet

Trans lines- I have an auto and my trans lines run beside the block. Problem is, so does my #2 primary They are sandwiched between primary and the block. Although its not specified these would likely be a better fit on a manual trans since the DS header is nowhere near where the slave would be (Yay for me since Ima upgrade T-56 soon)

Oil pan- I have hooker 2138 series and the drivers side collector runs under the oil pan in the same location as the stock y-pipe. Problem is its very close and Im worried over excess heat going to the pan. Close being 1/8"

Drivers side O2 sensor- The DS O2 sensor is on the manifold up high, My collector is directly under the oil pan, and the only direction I can see is to aim the O2 sensor strait down which would break off first bump. Can I move the O2 sensor furthor down the new y-pipe to a safer location without tripping the computer out? Or.... can i mount it to the #7 primary close to the stock location

AIR tubes- Im having trouble locating a set of stock V8 AIR tubes that halfway resemble my header shape, but I have seen several header styles that used a single tube that went directly to the collector like it was a 5th primary. What would be the drawbacks of running the AIR tube like the vaccuum evac line off dragsters n such. Instead of hooking to the valve cover, hook to the AIR line..... Its injecting air into the collector either way

Starter wires- There seems to be barely enuff room for the starter but the wires have me stumped. They come in from the front of the engine directly back and pass by 3 primarys. How did anyone shield the wires from all that heat?

O2 wire- Anyway I look at it, the O2 sensor will have to be moved from stock location, so can I clip the wire and run same gauge wire and crimp the extension in without upsetting the effectivness of the sensor?

Knock sensor- This thing is dead in the path of a primary. Yall yank it and plug it or find a way around it?

Pass Brake line- I know this is a common problem, but can I see a pic of how most people bend it out of the way

Collector ends- these headers dont have a flange style end, only a 2 1/2" pipe end, appears to be slip over/under style, what kind of clamp works best for this application?

Thanks. Think the only problem I didnt have is a broken bolt... yet

 

Are these headers even made for a thirdgen?

 

I just looked it up, yes they are LTs for a thirdgen.

Trans lines- I'd suggest thermal heat wrap on the primarys

Oil pan- again, thermal wrap

Drivers side O2 sensor- I'd move it a little further down the Y-pipe

AIR tubes- Honestly I have no experience doing this. My LTs had proper AIR connections. You can either delete the AIR system or rig something up.

Starter wires- Thermal wire wrap.. probably wouldn't hurt to do all of the primaries on this side and the collector. Starters can overheat and won't function until they cool down if you get them too hot.

O2 wire- Yep, you can extend the sensor without problems. I'd recommend using the same guage wire and soldering the connections, doing it as low resistance as possible. Make SURE to cover those wires with some sort of heat protectant. I used a "heat sock" off of some plug wires I scavenged at the shop one day. Works great.

Knock sensor- You could, however I'd recommend clearancing the primary just for piece of mind of still having your knock sensor. This one is up to you.

Pass Brake line-

Collector ends- I had an exhaust shop weld 3 bolt flanges to the end of my headers and my Y-pipe, so it's easy to drop my Y-pipe and hook up flanged dumps Or you can use U shaped clamps or band clamps

All part of the fun of installing parts into your vehicle that GM never intended to be there in the first place

Just keep going at it and if you get frustrated take a break and come surf TGO. Use plenty of PB Blaster, don't forget to use locking header bolts and make sure to tighten them again after 3 heat cycles, then after 3 more days, then after a week.

 

Id use a band style clamp for the collector flanges, or i could machine you 5/16" thick collector flanges to weld on for $25(never worry about warping).

 

Fire in the hole

Wasnt too bad afterall

Be a writeup shortly