blackwrestler34

Ok, Here's the senario...

First of all i have a 1988 trans am that was in need of an engine transplant

I found a barely driven 350, 010 block, year from 69-79 with less than 10K miles on it

Everything is goin well, everything i bought for this 350 block is brand new wit top dollar everything, everything bolting up pretty nicely until i ran into a bit of a problem.
I went to bolt up my stock exhaust manifolds...and the passenger side bolted up perfect, the driver side...the dipstick was blocking it from bolting up! I mean dead center no way around it!

now my options as i see it are A:Flexible dipstick? (which i am not familar with at all nor am i sure if its gonna work) or B:Headers?

i did not want to run headers because i am a college student that does drive my T/A a whole lot and im talkin everyday. My father told me not to run headers because I AM gonna put the miles on it and because of from his experience with headers they leak and i will have a heck of a time fixing the problem.

I heard they make a style of headers though that do not leak and work perfect ...no problems.

So guys what do you think? Help Please!?!
Now where do i turn..

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

manifolds will leak too.

any set of headers that cost more than 100bux or so, will be fine. If you buy cheapo junk, it will leak. There have to be millions of people in this world who run headers, if they were as bad as you father makes them sound why would anyone use them?
Just install them with good gaskets, and tighten then accordingly after the first several heat cycles and all will be good. mine dont leak.

a flexible dipstick will probably solve your issues, and will cost less than a new header system.

RebornFromAshes

Exhaust manifolds are far less likely to leak, but they can leak or crack.

Good headers have thick flanges and can be made to seal without too much trouble. It just takes good gaskets and a few re-torques as previously mentioned.

Cheap headers can be made to seal, but it takes caution. If you over-torque the bolts you can warp the header flange. You also have to make sure that the exhaust ports, gaskets, and header flange have adequate sealing areas. Sometimes between the three there are thin spots that just don't have enough sealing area to last long.

The manifolds you have weren't meant for the oil pan you are using, which is what that year of engine used. If the only issue you are running in to is the dip stick then you can just be creative and try heating and bending the tube to work around the manifolds. I believe Lokar makes an aluminum dip stick that has no tube, it just goes directly in to the block. It might be tricky to check the oil level, but it is something to consider.

One thing to keep in mind with headers is that not only must you buy the headers, but you must modify your exhaust to work with them. This drives up the cost if you don't have the resources to do this yourself.

Beast407

You have a third option. Some late 1970's/early 1980's GM sedans with the 305 used an oil pan with a dipstick fitting in it. It puts the dipstick on the driver's side and will clear any manifold or header. Swapping to this oil pan and putting the dipstick in the pan will solve your issue.