Header installation
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Montgomery, AL
Car: 91 RS Convertible
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: Stock Automatic-for now
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
Header installation
I started reading the sticky on installing the hooker long tubes. Is installing headers always this complicated? It talks about having to replace the starter, modify the oil cooler, weld in the O2 sensor, move wiring, etc. Thats probably more than I want to get into in an apartment parking lot with no garage to leave it in while it is tore apart.
It also sounds like there are some major expenses beisdes just buying the headers, like buying a mini starter.
I am completely new at this kind of stuff. Are shorty headers/other long tubes any easier/cheaper? Thanks.
It also sounds like there are some major expenses beisdes just buying the headers, like buying a mini starter.
I am completely new at this kind of stuff. Are shorty headers/other long tubes any easier/cheaper? Thanks.
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From: New Jersey
Car: 1987 camaro RS/Z28 clone
Engine: 305 bored .030 over
Transmission: 700r4 slippin its way home
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.43 gear
Re: Header installation
shorties are cheaper and 99.9% of the time direct bolt on.
that .1% is if you get the most garbage of garbage headers and they ****ed up the flange when they were welding but .. i hope you dont get a cheap pair...
anyway.
shorties are the easiest.
as they say in the write up. long tubes make a significant difference on a higher performance engine.
that .1% is if you get the most garbage of garbage headers and they ****ed up the flange when they were welding but .. i hope you dont get a cheap pair...
anyway.
shorties are the easiest.
as they say in the write up. long tubes make a significant difference on a higher performance engine.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Montgomery, AL
Car: 91 RS Convertible
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: Stock Automatic-for now
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
Re: Header installation
Anybody know of some long tubes that I can use without having to make modifications?
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From: Iowa
Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: 350 vortec
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Axle/Gears: 3.73 10 bolt grenade
Re: Header installation
Hedmans fit pretty well, but no longtube header install is a direct bolt in
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Montgomery, AL
Car: 91 RS Convertible
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: Stock Automatic-for now
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
Re: Header installation
ok. I guess I'll be going with shortys then. This is a first time, budget build and I'm trying to keep things uncomplicated.
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Anybody got suggestions for a good "bang for your buck" short tube? Avoiding the garbage described above. I am also big on an absolute direct bolt in. I am short on time, workspace, available tools, experience and help so I realy want to avoid anything that will be a pain to fit.
----------
Anybody got suggestions for a good "bang for your buck" short tube? Avoiding the garbage described above. I am also big on an absolute direct bolt in. I am short on time, workspace, available tools, experience and help so I realy want to avoid anything that will be a pain to fit.
Last edited by 91 RS Drop Top; Jun 29, 2008 at 08:19 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Harrisburg PA
Car: 04 Jetta
Engine: 1.8t AWP
Transmission: 5spd
Re: Header installation
ok. I guess I'll be going with shortys then. This is a first time, budget build and I'm trying to keep things uncomplicated.
----------
Anybody got suggestions for a good "bang for your buck" short tube? Avoiding the garbage described above. I am also big on an absolute direct bolt in. I am short on time, workspace, available tools, experience and help so I realy want to avoid anything that will be a pain to fit.
----------
Anybody got suggestions for a good "bang for your buck" short tube? Avoiding the garbage described above. I am also big on an absolute direct bolt in. I am short on time, workspace, available tools, experience and help so I realy want to avoid anything that will be a pain to fit.
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
That would be my recommendation as well, but they aren't a direct bolt-in to a stock LO3 exhaust.
But, then, anybody looking for performance shouldn't be leaving any of the stock exhaust in there, with the possible exception of a hanger or two.
But, then, anybody looking for performance shouldn't be leaving any of the stock exhaust in there, with the possible exception of a hanger or two.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 230
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From: Montgomery, AL
Car: 91 RS Convertible
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: Stock Automatic-for now
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
Re: Header installation
the original TBI and best I can tell everything else from the L03 is still on the engine. I don't even think they changed the computer or injectors but that is a separate issue. It looks like the stock L03 manifolds are still on the motor.
So when you say " wouldn't be a direct bolt on to a stock L03 exhaust, are you referring to the y-pipe?
I am gonna change the y-pipe as well, and get a cat back, but I will probably do the cat back separate because of the price. Ay problem with doing it that way?
Am I missing anything here about what I need to change to completely lose the POS factory exhaust as you suggest? Thanks
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From: Rock Hill SC
Car: 86 Iroc 383 carb, 97 T/A WS6
Re: Header installation
Hooker 2210s are really simple to install. I too read that they were such a a pain and require lots of work to fit. I put mine in with a motor swap but have had them in and out a few times since. The driver side drops in from the top and the passengers side slides up from the bottom with the starter removed. I used my stock starter, the only mod I did was a remote mounted solenoid. As for the o2 sensor, I don't have any buy my Mufflex y-pipe has a place for them. This is about the best exhaust system I've had on an F body, 2210 longtubes, mufflex y pipe and 4" catback, it sounds amazing. If you have the money this is definetaly the way to go. I did have a set of 2055's but I was going to have to open up the collectors (they neck down to 1.9") and have the air tubes cut off and welded shut, so I went for the 2210's and didnt have to modify a thing.
$.02
Seth
$.02
Seth
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 230
Likes: 1
From: Montgomery, AL
Car: 91 RS Convertible
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: Stock Automatic-for now
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
Re: Header installation
Hooker 2210s are really simple to install. I too read that they were such a a pain and require lots of work to fit. I put mine in with a motor swap but have had them in and out a few times since. The driver side drops in from the top and the passengers side slides up from the bottom with the starter removed. I used my stock starter, the only mod I did was a remote mounted solenoid. As for the o2 sensor, I don't have any buy my Mufflex y-pipe has a place for them. This is about the best exhaust system I've had on an F body, 2210 longtubes, mufflex y pipe and 4" catback, it sounds amazing. If you have the money this is definetaly the way to go. I did have a set of 2055's but I was going to have to open up the collectors (they neck down to 1.9") and have the air tubes cut off and welded shut, so I went for the 2210's and didnt have to modify a thing.
$.02
Seth
$.02
Seth
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From: Rock Hill SC
Car: 86 Iroc 383 carb, 97 T/A WS6
Re: Header installation
The 2210 long tubes don't have any smog tubes. IMO they are the best longtube for the money, and with angle plug heads you can change all the plugs from the top. I will definitely use them on my next thirdgen build.
Seth
Seth
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