Header install soon.
Header install soon.
Tomorrow I plan to begin on the removal of my stock exhaust manifolds on my 90 Camaro RS. It's in the garage for the winter, so I'm beginning to do the work that I'd like to on it, and headers are on the list.
I haven't decided what headers I'm going to go with, they're probably going to be shortys though(lots of speed bumps in Michigan).
Any advice to get me started? It's going to be a couple weeks before I have the money for the headers, so I was just going to start by removing the stock manifold just to get an idea of how its going to go, and how it all goes together.
I haven't decided what headers I'm going to go with, they're probably going to be shortys though(lots of speed bumps in Michigan).
Any advice to get me started? It's going to be a couple weeks before I have the money for the headers, so I was just going to start by removing the stock manifold just to get an idea of how its going to go, and how it all goes together.
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From: Indian Mound, TN
Car: '91 Camaro RS T-Top
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: Bulldog 700r-4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Header install soon.
Are you making any other upgrades to your engine?
Removing the old manifolds shouldn't be too big of a task, if they're really rusty though, I'd soak them in liquid wrench overnight to loosen the bolts a bit.
You should definitely go with Shorty headers, as the benefits from longtubes are offset by all the trouble you go through to install them, and they end up not being too big a difference from shorties.
I'd also plan on getting header wrap, or ceramic coated headers (people prefer ceramic) if you're gonna do any other add-ons. It'll reduce below hood temps, and keep your starter, and other wires safe from the heat.
There are most likely gonna be things that get in the way, such as the evap canister on the pass. side, and when you get frustrated, take a break, frustration doesn't lead to results, ask me how I know
Btw, you'll probably end up needing a new Y-pipe to go with your headers, I'd call around to exhaust shops in your area and get a quote on those, in my experience, it's a bit cheaper that way.
Removing the old manifolds shouldn't be too big of a task, if they're really rusty though, I'd soak them in liquid wrench overnight to loosen the bolts a bit.
You should definitely go with Shorty headers, as the benefits from longtubes are offset by all the trouble you go through to install them, and they end up not being too big a difference from shorties.
I'd also plan on getting header wrap, or ceramic coated headers (people prefer ceramic) if you're gonna do any other add-ons. It'll reduce below hood temps, and keep your starter, and other wires safe from the heat.
There are most likely gonna be things that get in the way, such as the evap canister on the pass. side, and when you get frustrated, take a break, frustration doesn't lead to results, ask me how I know

Btw, you'll probably end up needing a new Y-pipe to go with your headers, I'd call around to exhaust shops in your area and get a quote on those, in my experience, it's a bit cheaper that way.
Re: Header install soon.
All of the other upgrades I plan on doing any time soon are all cosmetic, or suspension.
Yeah, I know I'm going to need to get a y-pipe as well, but they only fit with basically the same brand headers, correct?
For example, if I get a set of SBC headers then only SBC y-pipes will line up correctly, typically, right?
Yeah, I know I'm going to need to get a y-pipe as well, but they only fit with basically the same brand headers, correct?
For example, if I get a set of SBC headers then only SBC y-pipes will line up correctly, typically, right?
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 75
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From: Indian Mound, TN
Car: '91 Camaro RS T-Top
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: Bulldog 700r-4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Header install soon.
Typically, yes.
Sometimes SBC headers can be different, and the Y-pipes are sometimes different too. Only way to be absolutely positive that both would work is to get a matching set, or get a Y-pipe made.
By the way, wear some mechanics gloves, your knuckles will thank you the first time a bolt "snaps" and you hit you hand on something sharp ;P
Sometimes SBC headers can be different, and the Y-pipes are sometimes different too. Only way to be absolutely positive that both would work is to get a matching set, or get a Y-pipe made.
By the way, wear some mechanics gloves, your knuckles will thank you the first time a bolt "snaps" and you hit you hand on something sharp ;P
Re: Header install soon.
Right, I was just using SBC as an example. I have no idea what I'm going to get yet, but I think I'm going to try to find something that will also fit on a 350, just in case I ever get around to the swap. As for the actual removing of parts for clearance of the install, is the a/c unit the only thing that really has to be tampered with? (with the exception of the air intake)
**EDIT** Just found somebody selling a set of headman shorty headers with y-pipe for $120. Depending on the condition of them, that might be what I'm sticking with.
**EDIT** Just found somebody selling a set of headman shorty headers with y-pipe for $120. Depending on the condition of them, that might be what I'm sticking with.
Last edited by Bajawoojie; Dec 9, 2010 at 12:30 AM.
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 75
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From: Indian Mound, TN
Car: '91 Camaro RS T-Top
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: Bulldog 700r-4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Header install soon.
I removed the silver canister on the pass. side, and also the hoses bolted to the back of the A/c compressor. Those (and the starter) were the things that gave me the most trouble.
Be careful with the starter, it weighs a ton.
Be careful with the starter, it weighs a ton.
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 77
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From: West Des Moines, IA
Car: 1988 Pontiac GTA
Engine: 5.7 w/SLP cold air intake
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3.27 with PBR brake upgrade
Re: Header install soon.
I'm in the middle of a header install on my 1988 GTA L98 and removing the exhaust manifolds was just the start of this nightmare. They are not easy to remove unless you are an expert on wrenching on the Third Gen and I have decades of experience working on a wide range of other GM vehicles. Just getting the factory bolts out is a challenge and then on the passenger side (if you have AC) be prepared to remove all of the AIR and AC components, including the compressor. You will probably break the end off of your fan control sensor in the process or removing the manifold. If you are removing your cat the AIR line will have to be cut (and ruined) since it will be rusted on (I have a 50K mile 'Bird that never saw winter or much rain). Still haven't figured out how to reattach the AIR tube to my new Random cat.
Then, getting my Dyno Don headers installed has been quite challenging. The back bolt is a real challenge and a couple of others are not assessable to a socket so they require an open end. Having the AIR tubes on the headers increase the complexity quite a bit since they interfere with install and tightening of the bolts.
Enjoy!
Then, getting my Dyno Don headers installed has been quite challenging. The back bolt is a real challenge and a couple of others are not assessable to a socket so they require an open end. Having the AIR tubes on the headers increase the complexity quite a bit since they interfere with install and tightening of the bolts.
Enjoy!
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Re: Header install soon.
i put LT's on my other RS and ground clearence is no different from my shortys i had on it before after i ran the pipes from them. i can go over speed bumps just fine. my car however is all stock ride height. can post pics if u want.
Last edited by bduffey723; Jan 4, 2011 at 12:25 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 65
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From: lake orion mich
Car: 1984 ta slightly modified
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto 350 w/reverse valve body
Axle/Gears: 410 ratio
Re: Header install soon.
Hedman headers has a tubular exhaust for third gens. Comes with the shorty headers and a y-pipe that ends at the stock cat location. Done this years ago and best I remember all was a direct bolt on fit. Had to tweak a brake line on drivers side cause i thought it was to close to header. As far as installing them had to remove starter and spark plugs. About 4 hours and a 12 pack.
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