I'm willing to bet that straight sections could be made without too much difficulty, if the tubing is packed with sand first....

However, doing bends would take a bit more trial and error, at least for me

I would probably end up making bends by cutting the tubing at an angle and welding, multiple times if necessary. Hmmm

 

If your referring to oval (I didn't use sand) I don't think sand would work as you would be decreasing the volume of the tube and creating a lot of pressure more so then doing a mandrel sand bend which is really just stretching the outer radius of the tubes material which is another reason why you want to heat the area being bent to decrease the risks of tearing especially with how thin walled exhaust tubing is. The pressers involved would be like trying to oval a solid round bar stock to oval, easy to bend into shapes near imposable to oval... This is just my speculation of corse

 

All complete! other then i still have to fab up the front hanger.
I ground down ALL the welds and sanded everything to a nice over all finish.
Since everything is off the car i figured this would be a good opportunity to lay it all out and take some pics, the plastic is still around the muffler along with the bubble wrap on the tail pipes i left them on to keep them from getting messed up during the install...

 

What do you have in mind for the front hangar? The factory one from the transmission tailhousing sucks!

 

Cant be factory anyway, I'll have to fab something up. I have some peaces left over from some other magngaflow kits iv installed on some other cars that i might make use of but we'll see. Im most likely going to mount this on the trans/floor pan area and have something welded or attached to the y-pipe transition or the front of the 3" cat-back tube.

 

Cleaned and coated the inside of all the tubes.

 

Mind sharing details on the how and which products used for this? Love how yours turned out, I'd like to do something similar down the road.

 

Great f*ckin exhaust dude.....

 

Looks great! Nice job!

 

Resists Temperatures up to 1300degreesF. Forms a Hard, Lasting Finish that will not Burn Off, Chip or Peel. Ideal for use on Headers, Exhaust Manifolds, or any Surface Exposed to Very High Heat.



Thats all i used just read the directions on the back of the can. It holds up well iv used this product before with good results

 

Thanks!

 

Thanks!

 

Does this hi temp paint actually work? They have a nice selection of colors but i've always been skeptical about these aerosol hi temp paints.. What is the curing process? I don't really have access to an oven that can bake headers, if that's what it requires?

 

Yes, hi temp paint works. I was also extremely skeptical but for the price it was worth trying out. Here is my experience. I had a set of headers media blasted to bare metal, cleaned and prep then coated them in high temp same brand and color and installed them on the car a few weeks later (can says to heat cure them in a hour after coating or something i don't have the can handy to read it ) but it bubbled in a few spots but it still cured and was very durable i think it was a combination of rapid high heat and the fact your suppose to cure then in a certain time frame. i was somewhat disappointed but next round on some other parts i followed the instructions on the back on the can to a T and baked the parts and they never chip, bubbled, cracked etc id compare the durability to a true ceramic coat they even looked pretty nice too. I think as long as you follow the cans directions it will work just like they state on the can. after i painted the inside of the tubes on my exhaust system i followed the on car curing instructions and im sure they cured just fine i have to pull them down soon anyways so all look and i can post results even if they bubbled in spots or whatever i don't care to much i just wanted to add a layer to keep the inside exhaust temps up and the outside down. If you search on the web you'll find a lot different forums, post and threads regarding rattle can high temp and as far as i could compile baking parts is the the way to go

 

Everything is in the prep for any paint, this one seems to be no different. I was thinking of doing this AND installing header wrap. Keeping the heat down is crucial and also makes less heat fly in my face while i'm driving. So you didn't bake them in an oven and just cured them on the car?

 

Of course it is but as you read even the amount of prep i did was no match and still bubbled besides the fact i waited a few weeks to put them on after painted (the can says to cure them within a hour of coating if i recall) i think in the end that's why it bubbled but i also suspect the rapid high heat on the primaries too because as i re-count a buddy of mine had the same thing happen even cured them with in the given time frame... eh not a fan of warps and have no idea how the will the paint will work covered in warp. I cured them on the car following the cans directions

 

Can I see the Ball/Socket Bends that bolt to the HEADERS, The Ones that angle slightly downward to clear the Transmisission/Transmission Crossmember. Can I purchase these already made, or custom only? Thank You.

 

They already sell them in pain steel... are you looking for stainless?

 

Either material is fine, preferably Stainless Steel. Where can I purchase said pieces, specific name? Thank You.

 

No one that i know of makes them in stainless i had them done...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-21115/?rtype=10

 

Yes those are the reducers that are included with the headers, I'm referring to the piece you welded to it. It's like a 22 degree bend... Thank you.

 

dub post

 

Its easy to do with a hammer and a few 2x4s or you could just man up and buy it.


http://www.burnsstainless.com/304ovalsstubing.aspx

 

For the one i did on my car I used a simple hanger (with a rubber mount that has a hole) off of the old trans exhaust mount point. Weld a cross bar between the Y with a upside down J going up to the rubber mount its really simple and works great..
This explination of what I did sucks..

 

Yeah and it would look like complete dog crap. Somehow this guy was able to do it and make it look nice, but wont share that butposts a step by step on SFC's that looks awesome


I have been looking at Burns Stainlless for years now, I dont like their transitions, not to mention the cost.

You arent showing me anything new smartass

 

Yes, if prepped and carefully cured, the paint will last. Mine has lasted very well for the last 7 years. I lightly sanded, cleaned thoroughly with alcohol, and sprayed two very light coats of paint on the headers. I then let them sit for a few days. Finally I cured them on the engine. Run engine for 1min turn off and let cool to ambient. Next run for 5 mins and let cool to ambient. Finally run up to operating temperature and turn off, let cool over night. Done.

The paint has dulled some over time, but it still looks good.

 

Finally got time and got the front hanger done

I had some left over parts from some other mangaflow systems

 

Plate for the inside...


pulled off the car and welded the tab

 

You talking about the S-extensions?

http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...er-Extensions/

 

Those are the ones, I actually recieved them last week. Unfortunately they sent me the universal fit, I needed the Ball and Socket. Sending them back today. I also had a local muffler shop make me one. I explained to him what I wanted and the approximate degrees of the bends. The guy charged me $35.00 for one, that's with those nasty dents the tube bender left. Live and Learn and Spend Money...

 

this is what I have dougs long tubes 3'' y pipe to 4'' flowmaster take a listen
408 small block thumper cam custom 4" exhaust on a 3rd Gen camaro on you tube

 

this is my custom made 3" y pipe to 4" over the axle to flowmaster with sound



408 small block thumper cam custom 4" exhaust on a 3rd Gen camaro

 

Sounds nice looks nice!

 

God I hate our WI hobbyist plates..... They clash with any paint scheme. Nice exhaust tho!

 

A vise ..that's all u need well 2 vices ..then u can make oval pipe ...some secrets still omitted but yall should firgure out the rest easily ..

 

I don't know about pipe ovals, never tried to oval pipe... however I do know about oval tube and a vise will not make a good form for oval tube... you can try but all you'll be left with is tubing with a crashed / indented roof and floor and pointy round ends that have a bad radius... I posted a chart showing round to oval if you try to duplicate the dimensions on a vise its not going to happen good luck...

 

I made my dies out of aluminum ..placed in the vice ...works very well ..i work as a tig welder at a stainless fab shop ..had our machineist help me out ; )

 

looks really good, check this out, Im running 1 3/4 long tubes also, Dougs. 3" into 4" over the axle into a 4" flowmaster race muffler.

 

Hey fueledsouled how did that custom flange you made work did it leak? I can't find a 3" flange for my ball and socket shorty hedmans and thought about flaring out pipe to work lol

 

how much do you sell the kits for

 

Nice work!