xxZ28xx

iTrader: (1)

So I installed my exhaust, took awhile but I'm so happy I finally got it on.

Now There is an exhaust leak I already kinda figured this was going to happen. Its taking place at the flanges.

So, is there a way I can fix this without welding and without taking it apart and putting another gasket there.

Any kind of material I can use by that I mean anything. For example my brother in law was talking about this stuff. Its two sticks of something you cut a piece off of both and you mash it together and the material gets hard as steel. But is it heat resistant like steal? If so then I can use that to fix these leaks.

So my overall question: Is there ANYTHING I can do to seal these exhaust leaks without welding and without unscrewing the flanges. (I don't want to unscrew the flange because I need two 13mm wrenches and I have to ask another neighbor do to the fact I only have one 13mm)

Any help will be extremely appreciated, this is the last thing I need before I can get my car on the road (besides registration)

305sbc

iTrader: (3)

No. Two-part epoxy will not survive the heat any time at all, so don't bother.

There's nothing you can do without removing the header, so you'd best bite the bullet and splurge for whatever wrench you need.

You didn't say what type of gaskets you used, but you will need good quality gaskets, preferably with at least a metal core. The metal (gasket mating) surfaces need to be cleaned flat, - no remaining old gasket material.

Solid copper gaskets are available to seal really troublesome header flanges.
In most cases the metal stock replacement gaskets can work well.

One significant factor in sealing the flange is how the bolts apply pressure.
Now I always use stainless grade-8 bolts with hardened flat-washer, and split-ring lock-washers under each bolt head. The lock washer touches the bolt head, and the hardened flat washers go against the header flange. The hardened flat-washer should be as large as possible, at least larger than the split-ring washer. This distributes the clamping load much better against the flange, and ensures that the bolts do not back-out (loosen). Use high-temp antiseize on the bolt threads, and use bolts long enough to get full thread engagement- long enough to make up for the space of the flange, and both washers between the flange and the bolt head.

If you must use some sealant on the gasket you can use the red permatex high-temp ultracopper or the like. Give the sealant at least 24 hours to set-up before running the engine again.

zenish

[QUOTE= (I don't want to unscrew the flange because I need two 13mm wrenches and I have to ask another neighbor do to the fact I only have one 13mm)

Any help will be extremely appreciated, this is the last thing I need before I can get my car on the road (besides registration)[/QUOTE]

a 1/2"wrench is very close to a 13 mm wench.

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

No other way to fix it really other than taking the headers off and putting in quality gaskets. You could try re-torquing the header bolts, could be possible some of them got loose, but if you have a bad flange or gasket then it'll have to come out anyway. You should look at aluminum sheet gaskets or possibly something with lead. The gaskets I used are from Earls and are steel gaskets with lead inserts around the ports which crush and deform to create a tight seal all around the port. I'm very happy with them.

http://www.holley.com/29D03BERL.asp

Make sure you get the ones with the proper port size for your application.