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The current headers fit well on my aluminum angle plug heads, however, they are terrible to work around and have the AIR system which I would like to remove. Also, my Y-Pipe is pretty banged up from a really bad bottom out I got myself into a few years ago.
So, with my next exhaust, I want to keep it at 3" and will likely keep the current cat back with some slight modification if needed...
So I'm in the market for a new set of headers that will fit the following criteria:
1. Be easy to install.
2. Have no clearance issues with my frame/heads/plugs/etc...
3. Include a Y-Pipe w/ 3" output
4. No AIR smog system.
5. 1-3/4"
6. Not be too expensive. (I think DynoDon's Headers+Y-Pipe may be out of my budget unfortunately)
So far I've done research on the following:
1. DynoDon - A bit too expensive for me brand new
2. SLP's - I see they're not made anymore
3. Hookers - Curious what the difference is between the Hooker 2460 vs. 2055 but it seems they are only 1 5/8" which I was hoping for 1 3/4"
5. Ebay/Overseas headers - Can't find any talks about these recently so it's a bit scary?
I will likely have to go with one of the above headers but just not sure which ones yet. I think that the Hookers may be my best bang for my buck but also thought of asking on here in case someone had any better idea's/suggestions for me.
for the money, a new exhaust isn't going to improve much over what you have already, so why waste the money?
It's because of these reasons:
1. They're 1-5/8. Everything I read says over 450hp and 1-3/4 is best.
2. My Y-Pipe is basically bent in half forming a "D" shape under my oil pan.
3. They're terrible to work around if replacing plugs or trying to do or see anything underneath them (knock sensor, battery/starter wires, dipstick, plug wires, etc.)
4. They're wrapped in header wrap and don't look too great...
5. I'm having to cover the AIR tubes with pipe fittings which looks ugly and I can't mount spark plug routing wire looms because of the AIR tubes are in the way.
7. I also don't really feel like troubleshooting an exhaust leak on headers that I've grown to hate over the years ...
On the other hand, you may be right. I could technically replace my Y-Pipe and chop the AIR tubes off and weld shut the small holes and troubleshoot the exhaust leak but all the time that would take feels like roughly the same amount of time it would take to just replace it all and have the relief that I'll never have to deal with these Edelbrock TES headers ever again...
The classifieds are your friend. Start with posting an ad in parts wanted here( oops, didn't catch that you already did that).I think someone recently sold a used set of dyno Don's headers. SLP's also come up occasionally. Browse Craigslist daily, and expand your search out as far as you'd be willing to drive to pick something up. I'm in central PA, and have picked up parts in upstate NY, Jersey, Virginia, and even took a road trip to North Carolina a few years ago. Be patient and you'll find what you want at a price you can afford eventually... Unless you need it yesterday, lol!
Last edited by zya5point0; 07-14-2017 at 12:38 PM.
Reason: spelling
Oh by the way, Don also makes dual cat y-pipes that comes with the headers. Call him up or message him. He's in SoCal.
How would I call him? I don't know where to get his contact info.
I'm trying to determine if it's better to drive down there or if shipping them would be best. I sent him a message last night so waiting to hear back.
Another concern is the time it'll take to make them. I could get the hookers right away but according to the TDS website it seems the dynodon ones will take about 4-6 weeks to make ... 😕
I have Dyno Don's and they work great. I'm curious, If you live in Cali, Don't you need all your smog/AIR/CAT's, etc. to pass inspection for your car license?
I had hooker 2055 and liked them. They are smog legal tho. And the collector is like 1.9-2.0" ball flange opening that should be ported to 2.25 or bigger if you can. The 2460 are nice but no y pipes
I installed a set of dyno dons in a 87 iroc and had to modify the y pipe some to fit. And dent the primary on pass side to clear the heater core hard line and frame rail but they will support good power
1 5/8 in a shorty isnt so bad. It just is nice to have a proper 2.5-3" collector.
I have Dyno Don's and they work great. I'm curious, If you live in Cali, Don't you need all your smog/AIR/CAT's, etc. to pass inspection for your car license?
I do live in San Jose, CA and my dad lives a bit further down South so I was thinking of asking him if he could pick them up for me. My car actually won't even pass a visual inspection for many reasons so smogging is not a concern for me at the moment...
I asked DynoDon if there was anyway to get a cheaper set (non coated or if he had any used ones) and unfortunately he doesn't have anything cheaper so my next question is what it'll cost to ship... If I can save some money on shipping then maybe that'll help soften the cost a tiny bit...
Still waiting on a reply... nothing yet though... I know he's busy from what I hear...
I sure hope I can get a set soon... the 4-6 week wait is quite a lot
Keep trying. He's a one man show. Right now these are the best versions he has made. They should clear everything. Oh by the way, he also can make them with 2 1/2 or 3in collectors to order.
Did you go to the SoCal board? Check the for sell board!
Set of 1 3/4 SLP's (top) vs 1 3/4 Dyno Don's. From all that I've read these are the top notch in 1 3/4 third gen shorties, with Don having the distinction of being the best. His price seemed excessive initially to me, but after calculating the cost of removing and welding shut air tubes and then having a set coated they're actually very reasonable. I was prepared to buy another set for my other car, but I came across a ridiculous deal in the SLP's. I pm'ed him directly. It took about two months altogether from the time I mailed my payment until I received the headers. I do live on the opposite coast. While he didn't give constant status updates, he did give an update via pm every so often. Time frame seemed to be very understandable being that he's a one man show.
Keep trying. He's a one man show. Right now these are the best versions he has made. They should clear everything. Oh by the way, he also can make them with 2 1/2 or 3in collectors to order.
Did you go to the SoCal board? Check the for sell board!
I heard back He answered all my questions and I'm getting ready to go get a money order for them.
Set of 1 3/4 SLP's (top) vs 1 3/4 Dyno Don's. From all that I've read these are the top notch in 1 3/4 third gen shorties, with Don having the distinction of being the best. His price seemed excessive initially to me, but after calculating the cost of removing and welding shut air tubes and then having a set coated they're actually very reasonable. I was prepared to buy another set for my other car, but I came across a ridiculous deal in the SLP's. I pm'ed him directly. It took about two months altogether from the time I mailed my payment until I received the headers. I do live on the opposite coast. While he didn't give constant status updates, he did give an update via pm every so often. Time frame seemed to be very understandable being that he's a one man show.
Wow! They look amazing! ... I think what I'll do is sell my old headers to someone and that should help with the cost of these... I figure if I can make 200$ off the edelbrocks then that'll bring these down to ~600
The classifieds are your friend. Start with posting an ad in parts wanted here( oops, didn't catch that you already did that).I think someone recently sold a used set of dyno Don's headers. SLP's also come up occasionally. Browse Craigslist daily, and expand your search out as far as you'd be willing to drive to pick something up. I'm in central PA, and have picked up parts in upstate NY, Jersey, Virginia, and even took a road trip to North Carolina a few years ago. Be patient and you'll find what you want at a price you can afford eventually... Unless you need it yesterday, lol!
I think I'm going for them new... I've been checking for the last few days since I started my new header quest and haven't seen anything pop up yet in either the classifieds or on craigslist... buy I've had similar experiences! I've even purchased a whole car just to take the hood off then sold the car lol... road trips for parts are always fun!
I installed a set of dyno dons in a 87 iroc and had to modify the y pipe some to fit. And dent the primary on pass side to clear the heater core hard line and frame rail but they will support good power
Instead of putting a dent in the header, just remove the bolt holding the heater tube and move it over the top of the frame, same as the TES install.
Old driver header = Loose
Old Passenger header = Out
Old Y-Pipe = Out
New driver header = TODO
New Passenger header = TODO
New Y-Pipe = TODO
Doesn't seem like a lot of progress but hardest part is taking everything out... installing shouldn't be so bad since everything's already out of the way and ready to just bolt back up... at least that's the way things typically go for me...
I did have one question though... I'm curious about the single pipe that is connected to one of the headers and slips into the rest of the y-pipe assembly.... is that pipe recommended to be welded on or clamped on ? I suspect weld since the TES y pipe was welded but just want to be sure
I just tack weld it so it can be taken apart if needed. The end of the Y pipe to the exhaust pipe I used a band clamp.
Hmm... tack welding it seems like it would cause an exhaust leak ? I like the idea of using a clamp if possible but I may just weld all around to ensure I don't get any leaks.
Both headers are in! (only two bolts on each to test fit everything)
Each header litterally went in (from top) without any issues! Didn't even have to lift the engine.
Slight problem with spark plug clearance though! :/ ...
Spark plugs #3 and #6 have tight clearance
#3: I can barley install the spark plug. Once installed, the plug boot is almost touching the #1 primary header pipe... I'm worried the boot may burn up if I run it like this...
#6: Spark plug goes in fine yet the boot is also pretty close to the #2 primary header pipe (not as bad as #3 though)
Could I get some help with what to do here? I'm not sure how severe of a problem it'll be to have the plugs/boots this close to ceramic coated pipes. If it were the TES headers then I'm pretty sure they'd just burn up my plug boots...
Shorter plugs? My heads require the 3/4" inch flat gasket seat plugs... I'm currently running NGK 5155 FR4 V-Power Plugs. I know Autolite 3924's will also work just not sure if those are going to be any shorter...
Smaller boot connectors? I just bought these plugs last month and they're the Taylor Spiro-Pros (74202)
Run it and hope my boots don't burn up. Possibly use boot protectors?
Ding in the #3 primary pipe to make some room?
Ask DynoDon if he could adjust them a bit for me?
Lastly... here are before and after comparison photos:
Passenger size. Hardest TES header side to deal with...
Before and after... TES wrapped
Before and after... TES unwrapped
TES Collector outlet
TES Smashed collector pipes
DynoDon Collector outlet
DynoDon collector pipes
TES Tiny dimpled primary inlets
DynoDon large open primary inlets
Last edited by Napster134; 08-16-2017 at 02:22 AM.
Reason: removing some pictures as they clutter the thread
Wrong spark plug boots, those belong on the dist. cap not on the plugs.
Thanks DynoDon! ... False alarm! Now I swapped my wires around and have some extra room. I also noticed that the gaskets are pretty thick and they were able to help with some more clearance.
07-14-2017, 01:12 AM
Super excited to install them this weekend! Or begin installing them at the least and get rid of my old/crappy Edelbrock TES's!
