Hooker Super-comp install questions
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 250
Likes: 17
From: Raleigh, NC
Car: 1998 Trans Am, 1992 Firebird
Engine: 402 LS2 stroker, 355 SBC
Transmission: T56 in both
Axle/Gears: 4.10 gear Moser 9", 3.27 9-bolt
Hooker Super-comp install questions
I just recently bought a set of Hooker super-comp shortie headers off of ebay. They were in good shape, but used. Couldn't beat the price, though! My question is this - what do I need to install these beasts? They aren't coming with bolts, gaskets, etc, just the headers. Can I reuse the stock manifold bolts and use a stock gasket? It shouldn't be a problem for the install, I have all the tools and a friend has a big lift, but I just want to be sure I have everything straight before I start tearing things apart. Thanks!
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I assume you got the y-pipe as well.
Most of your stock exhaust manifold bolts will not work. The only exception is the front driver's side bolt where the PS bracket bolts on. For that bracket, cut off the back bolt leg and just use the front one. You'll also need a spacer that is the same thickness as the stock manifold minus the header flange thickness. The rest of the bolts can be standard 3/4" or 1" long, 3/8" header bolts.
For gaskets, use Fel-Pro 1404's.
Your stock cat will not bolt to the y-pipe. If you didn't get the y-pipe, your stock y-pipe will not bolt to the headers. Something's gotta give there.
Most of your stock exhaust manifold bolts will not work. The only exception is the front driver's side bolt where the PS bracket bolts on. For that bracket, cut off the back bolt leg and just use the front one. You'll also need a spacer that is the same thickness as the stock manifold minus the header flange thickness. The rest of the bolts can be standard 3/4" or 1" long, 3/8" header bolts.
For gaskets, use Fel-Pro 1404's.
Your stock cat will not bolt to the y-pipe. If you didn't get the y-pipe, your stock y-pipe will not bolt to the headers. Something's gotta give there.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 250
Likes: 17
From: Raleigh, NC
Car: 1998 Trans Am, 1992 Firebird
Engine: 402 LS2 stroker, 355 SBC
Transmission: T56 in both
Axle/Gears: 4.10 gear Moser 9", 3.27 9-bolt
Naw, I didn't get the y-pipe. I figured I'd install the headers, then take the car down to a muffler shop and have them hook the exhaust back up. Thanks for the info!
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Take a look at the collector flange on the headers - how big is that hole?
Mine was 1.9". Tiny. I asked Hooker about it, they responded to the effect that it has to be that small in order to get a good seal, and besides the exhaust gases have slowed down by the time they reach that point, so it's not a problem.
I think it has more to do with getting a good seal than being a non-effect on performance. So, I opened mine up to 2-1/8", which is about the ID of a 2-1/2" OD down pipe. A high-speed electric angle grinder is about the best bet for doing that job.
Open that up, install the headers, then be prepared for the shock when you hear how much the muffler shop is going to charge you for a y-pipe.
Mine was 1.9". Tiny. I asked Hooker about it, they responded to the effect that it has to be that small in order to get a good seal, and besides the exhaust gases have slowed down by the time they reach that point, so it's not a problem.
I think it has more to do with getting a good seal than being a non-effect on performance. So, I opened mine up to 2-1/8", which is about the ID of a 2-1/2" OD down pipe. A high-speed electric angle grinder is about the best bet for doing that job.
Open that up, install the headers, then be prepared for the shock when you hear how much the muffler shop is going to charge you for a y-pipe.
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