I would like some dimensions for a strut tower brace for my camaro. Different designs such as triangulated ones and ones that go straight across would be great. What kind of tubing should I use? I have a mig welder and can weld decent I guess. I also have access to tig if need be. Thanks

 

yea show me what you need and i can make it my guess would be just get a strait piece of tubing and cut it to the dimension and then to some plates and you should be done

 

I have a home made one in my 84 carbed car. I put the brackets in front of the strut bearing plate with about 3\16 clearance, then I used 1" x 1\8 square tube across. I used that because I had some but would use 1" round tube if I did it again. I had to put a slight bend in it to clear the air cleaner and then ran two pieces from the outer ends to the cowl just behind the distributor. I don't have any dimensions as I just fabbed it as I went. Not very hard at all. The difference was noticeable

 

I believe edelbrock made one for TBI cars. If it fits that it should fit a carbed car .

 

it says it wont tho. i ve seen them work tho. what i would do is buy one trace it or get the dimensions and then work from there

 

Here's one I made for my 87 Firebird......305, carbed with Dr's side mounted AC compressor.

 

crazy can u take some more pics like where you mounted it. also what is the length and what type of metal did u use, how did u bend it or did u cut and weld

 

I'll take a few more pics tonight or tomorrow when I get the chance.

It is a solid 1" steel bar (all I had kicking around). I have 2 angled pieces welded on to go back towards the strut towers. For "mounting plates", I used 1.5" wide steel and just used two bolts to secure it. Made a huge difference.

 

Well I took 3 more pics tonight. Hopefully they are what you want as the car is squished in the garage right now.

If any wants, I guess I could make a few of them......for a small fee of course.

 

Looks good. Could you tell a difference with flex?

 

My Firebird is in pretty good shape for lack of rust, and the front end is also tight. After I put the bar on, I noticed on the highway the car went straighter with less "hunting" in the steering wheel. I was debating on triangulating it......but maybe when it warms up a bit.

**EDIT*** keep in mind also that it is 1" SOLID steel....not tube. It's a heavy **** and doesn't flex at all. I would have prefered to have used 1" tube.....but sometimes you use what you have available.

In total, from a single long stick of metal to cut, welded, painted then bolted on the car, I'd say it took about 4 hours.

 

that helps alot. instead of welding the angles i think im going to try and bend it

perfect pics, could u please take somemore around the bends and how you mounted it. did you have to drill holes. do you think a hollow bar will allow more flex

 

the "angles" are just metal welded together. The actual mounting points are right in front of the strut caps. I had to drill two holes per side and used washers and lock washers to make sure that sucker stays secure.

I honestly don't think the tube would really flex anymore. The difference wouldn't even be noticable.....but it would definantly be lighter.

 

right on now i have to find a tube