think of how much effort it is to lift the handle on the door..

NOT pull the door open, just lifting the handle.


thats all the 'noid has to do.


i still get the overkill huge ones, but for a diff reason.

if say, you batt is really low, and its freezing out, the 25lb noid might only pull 5lb... and maybe open the door, maybe not

but the 50lb one will still be able to pull the door open, no matter what.


like he said, totally overkill, but as long as you stay under 50-70ish lbs of pull, the price increase isnt big... anything over that and it jumps up high though.

 

You would think so, but I've found the opposite to be true. First, it takes MORE power to activate the larger solenoid. Now there are some people that say that a larger solenoid is necessary for colder climates, in the event that it might freeze. I can't say for sure on that, cause it doesn't get that cold here, but others who live in cooler climates haven't had any problems with smaller solenoids.

Also, the larger solenoid is heavy and I've had one of them work themselves loose over time. A lot of this stems from the way they are marketed. They claim that a larger solenoid is needed for everyday use. But it's the same sort of a theory to say that you need a 350 for a daily driver and can only use a v6 or 305 for weekend driving.

 

do they go lower than 25 lbs

 

I'm sure you could find ones that are smaller. But if I were doing it all over again, I'd probably go for something that was in that 25lb range. It's really up to you tho. I never tested the latch mechanism to see how much force it actually takes to open it. That would be the only way for sure to know how low you could go. Also, the amount of lubrication for the latch is a big factor.

 

i saw a kit in jegs for 51.95 do you think its any good

 

If you want to post a link to it, I'd be happy to take a look at it. I know Redraif bought hers from Summit Racing, and hasn't had any problems (she's also had hers longer than I've had mine).

If that price includes the remotes, then I'd say it's a pretty good deal. If not, you may want to shop around a little more.

 

how do i post a link.

 

door latch

 

so do you guys think that this is any good?

 

Um, maybe you posted the wrong link, but what came up was just a price list, no details. It was also for 149.99 At that price, I think a better deal could be found elsewhere.

 

if u have the newest summit mag. its on page 296 and its on the top of the page its 119.
by the way did u go to sac race way last nite

 

Joe, did you use a weld-through galvanizing primer before you welded the plate over the door handle recess? Just wondering if you took any steps to prevent against rust.

As to shaving the antenna, here's a link to a message of mine in which I show a windshield-mounted antenna & give a part number... I haven't done the job yet, though. It's too damn cold out. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=204633

 

I had a shop do the body work, so I don't know the details of what brands/types of materials they used. I assume you're talking about rust starting on the inside of the filler plate?

Unfortunately I don't have it. Actually, I dunno if they are still sending me their catalogs.

 

im looking into having this done to my car before i repaint it.
does anyone have any links to websites where i can buy a door popper kit? i dont want the huge 50Lb or a 25lb i want something in between
thanks

 

You can get a 35lb kit. Links are posted farther up in the thread.

 

hey if i shave my handles can i still race my car is it legal

 

It depends on where you race and how fast you are. I believe NHRA regulations require you to have door handles. However, I think after you reach a certain e.t. you no longer have to. Now some tracks (I believe Sac Raceway is one) are NHRA compliant and won't let you race. Others that don't enforce the NHRA rules will sometimes let you run. I don't know about road courses. I have never drag raced at a track and really don't plan to, so it wasn't an issue for me. The best thing to do would be to ask the tech doing your safety inspection next time you go to the track.

 

o so i cant just roll my window dwn

 

i know if you open up your window you'll get a lot of drag and it does affect your ET. not a whole lot but every millasec counts.

 

i drive with my top down and windows down IF THE TRACK LETS ME...


but most dont.

 

yea but it wont be an all out drag car. thats what the elco and vega is for this is gonna be a cruiser. mostly. were planning on putting ls1 t6 or lt1 t56 or 383 t56 in. but this use to be my daily for hi skool. and it might be again now that gas is reallly expensive.

 

hey joseph got a new thing for you to look at
handles

 

Those are good, here's another one you may want to take a look at. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2469137631

 

so which is better.
i see the price dif. but which would you choose. and why

 

Let me give you a brief rundown of both companies, and maybe that will help you to decide.

SPAL: An Italian company that manufactures power accessories. They are best known for their power window conversion kits (which I own and am very happy with). Supposedly they manufacture the power equipment for Ferrari.

Autoloc: The top name in shaved door handle kits. I would say that probably 1 in 3 people with shaved door handles are running their kit (that's just a guess tho). Being the top company means that, at least to a certain extent, you're paying for the name.

As to which I chose, technically, I bought from both (yeah, that helps ) I actually let price do the deciding for me. Obviously, you want to be wary of anyone selling generic solenoids that may not survive in an automotive enviornment (specifically, there are a lot on ebay right now that are trunk latch kits that are being sold as pairs as "shaved door handle kits". The buttons still say trunk on them too ) It just so happened that I got a good deal on the autoloc kit, so that's what I went with. I think either of those would work fine.

 

why do you have to make things so hard.

 

Well, you didn't say whether you were most concerned with price, name recognition, reliablity, etc. If price is your biggest deciding factor, then go with the SPAL or similar kit. There are some people tho that want to try and get the very best stuff avaliable so long as they don't get totally ripped off. If that's you, then I'd go with the autoloc kit. IMHO, both will do what you're looking for, and both will do it reliably.

 

i really dont care about the name. just quality and price really. i think i will wait a little bit longer to see if the prices go down or if they stay steady.

im glad its turned to 2 pages. i got tired of scrolling all the way down

 

does the autoloc kit come with door poppers or is it just all the stuff to pull the latch and not pop the door? if not what are the best and where can i get them?

 

The link that jocww posted did not include the poppers. I have yet to see an autoloc kit that came with it, although a lot of sellers will package the two together.

 

the popper is the just in case thing rite.

 

No, it's a little spring loaded plunger that pushes the door out when the solenoid is engaged.

http://www.autoloc4less.com/doorpoppers.html

 

wats the bacup button then

 

Um, autoloc lists it as:

 

ic.
what happened to all of the april fools posts

 

well i will be ordering the kit one of the two kits if i get a good score on my mid terms. as a little present to myself

 

92 camaro rs in progress my first project
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2384362
i have alarm with auto start.i have door pops that open with remote and button on bottom for emergency. someone else in stalled. can anyone tell me how to wire buttons on insde to open driver and passanger doors. so i would have total 2 buttons for driver and one for passenger also can someone tell me how to wire my car for keyless start push button?