Roll cage question
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: RI
Car: 87 Firebird Formula
Engine: AFR headed SBC
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser with 4.11's
Roll cage question
I was wondering when installign a roll cage do you need to keep the plates 6x6 inches or can you make them smaller and still be legal at the track? Even though my car is mostly a street car I wouldnt want to have a problem when I bring it to the track. If any one has pictures of where they moneted their plates that would also be really helpful. I have heard it is good to keep the rear plates over the springs and near the closest edge where the shock is mounted but then I also see a lot where they are in the back further and more towards the middle any comments on placement of them as well? Thanks for the help.
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
Re: Roll cage question
tons of pics online all over, in fact click my sig
and if they state 6x6, why would you think you could go smaller?
and if they state 6x6, why would you think you could go smaller?
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Roll cage question
A 6 x 6 plate gives 24" of weld to hold the plate to the sheet metal. Modify slightly but make sure you have at least 24" of weld. The plate doesn't have to sit flat. You can bend it around the sheet metal to fit better.
The roll bar install only needs to be legal if you require one. At 11.49 and quicker, you need a roll bar. Minimum 5 point but everyone installs the passenger door bar to make it a 6 point. You don't need a full cage until 9.99.
Installing a bar improperly if you don't need it is a waste of time anyway. You're adding around 70 more pounds to the car with a 6 point roll bar.
The roll bar install only needs to be legal if you require one. At 11.49 and quicker, you need a roll bar. Minimum 5 point but everyone installs the passenger door bar to make it a 6 point. You don't need a full cage until 9.99.
Installing a bar improperly if you don't need it is a waste of time anyway. You're adding around 70 more pounds to the car with a 6 point roll bar.
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From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
Re: Roll cage question
Since the plates are under the carpet anyways, they aren't visible, so what would be the point of making them smaller anyways?
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Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 414
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From: RI
Car: 87 Firebird Formula
Engine: AFR headed SBC
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 9" Moser with 4.11's
Re: Roll cage question
Thanks for the replies. The reason I ask is it would be much easier to cut the plates to size so you dont have to bend them which leads to much more work but you say you need them that size then I will do it just wanted to check(wasnt concerned about the appearance because I know they were not going to be seen when carpet was in). I did type the name wrong of this question and should have put roll bar I know the time requirements and just wasnt thinking when I typed cage. I do need a roll bar and its not extra weight for nothing because my car will be running this year low 11's and hopefully next year even lower. I have looked around and seen some good pictures but none really close up of the plates and how there welded in. Also what about placement of those rear plates any opinions on them? Above springs or closer to the back and more towards the middle ? Thanks again
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iTrader: (12)
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From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
Re: Roll cage question
IMHO, the rear bars help the best with the chassis, if they are directly above the springs, or really close to them.
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