I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

And they say we're in a recession. Not with guys still building cars like this...eh ehm, CARS.

Amazing build you got going on. Its crazy to think I'm satisfied with the 300-350 I want max from my motor. He wants 700...Ungodly.

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

The Stock LT1 starter is actually pretty small. ill be reusing that. The Alternator on the other hand is HUGE and ugly. This is what the Acura legend alternator looks like. Its internally regulated and has an internal fan.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

that's a nippon denso alternator, powermaster sells those too.

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

Yup but they want an *** load of money for them lol I wanted something I could pick up at just about any parts store and somethign that didnt cost an arm and a leg

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

wats the amp output? my stock replacement one is like 105amp or something.

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

This one is 75amps. Its lower than stock but I dont have much running off of it. The water pump, two fans, dual walbros and lights are about it. I tallied all the loads that I could figure and im under 50amps..

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

nice build

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

Got the coils mounted, used half of the truck coil bracketry added a couple ear and welded it all together so that while its under the dash each bank points toward its appropriate side.

JTNKTZ

iTrader: (10)

One of these day's I will have the garage, tools, money, and know-how to do this. Lol I'm 18 and dreaming :P

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

how are the electric water pumps on the street, i can see using them for a dedicated track car and u always see them on the dyno but how do they hold up for a daily driver? wats the life expectency of an electric water pump vs a mechanical? i always wanted a electric pump but i figured they wouldnt last as long on a daily driver and that a mechanical is better off. not to mention the 30hp that can be gained from using an electric pump.

radical82

a 30 horse gain with an electric water pump---no way!!! maybe 3 or 4... One thing that's always kept me using a mechanical pump is having a water pump failure out in the middle of nowhere and being able to go into any parts store and getting a replacement vs. towing the car home and ordering a replacement... Another thing people forget about using an electric water pump is that it is a bigger load on the electrical system meaning the alternator has to charge more, and or have a bigger output capacity which means the alternator is working harder and it too draws horsepower from the engine.... For a street car, or street/strip car, I'll stick with a mechanical pump....

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

Keep dreaming!!! I was there in the exact position once and I know how you feel! Im still dreaming! I need 2K more sqft and I need a vertical mill, lathe and CNC plasma cutter, then I would be pretty much complete lol I could always use and inground dyno and a madrel tube bender

As for the electric water pumps, they are great and mine draws 5.8amp lol trust me you dont have to do ANYTHING to your charging system lol and if your paranoid about not finding one at a parts store just go buy an extra one and keep it in the trunk!!

Its cheap easy way to fee up a little power and it will last as long as your factory ELECTRIC fuel pump! dont be sscared!

Camaros4Life

What interior are you going to be putting back into the car?

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

I'm going back with a 99 trans am dash, door panels and center console. I have the dash mounted and started on one of the door panels. I also have to trim the dash pad. I'm up in the air on seats... I would like to get two aluminum fix position race seats from a cup car or gt series car but not sure yet. I've got to get the window nets mounted to... The interior has kinda been push to the back burner while I try to make progress on the engine/drivetrain..

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Don't electric pumps run at one speed though? Or are they adjustable? Was wondering how that'd work on a street car seeing stop and go, traffic jams then freeway where its open air for miles.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

im pretty sure mechanical pumps draw more than that. i mean and alt is worth .1s at the track which equates out to 10hp roughly. and the waterpump is harder to turn and would result in more hp loss as the RPM increased. ive been wrong before so does anyone have proof of how much is gained by switching to a electric pump?

id be scared to overheat bc of a burn out pump. problem with electrical devices is they can just quit randomly and for no reason. just like accel control modules lol as soon as 2 weeks or on initial startup lol.

RED_DRAGON_85

the water pump will take less to turn than the alternator.
think about it.


good point about buying two lol
ive always thought an electric water pump was cool too

stoning_volcom

sweet looking build ill be following this. Keep up the good work and keep us updated

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

Im not sure I understand yoru question/concern? Yes electric pumps run pretty much at the same speed doesnt matter the driving conditions. the Thermostat takes car of regulating the temps.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Hmm, kind of confused myself. I think I wanted to know if I'm sitting at idle and its running 35gpm keeping me at 180, then when I start racing and going it will still only flow 35gpm in which temps will rise since flow is still same as at idle, whereas a mechanical constantly turns higher and lower due to it being belt ran, higher RPM's, higher flow rates? Or am I just way off track with this? I believe I heard this in the drag racing section. Electric good for drag and constant racing since its a constant flow. Whereas street driving your up and down all the time. Then with me will have the occasional racing weekend.

Someone please explain the cooling capabilities of a mechanical vs electric water pump vs street driving, track racing, drag racing, drifting and their rpm's usages.

I'm pretty sure EWP are for anything that will involve complete consistency or involved the same happening over and over, like drag racing or track racing.

Sorry if I'm just totally off.

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

Ya your totally off lol. At an idle you wont be pumping 35GPM through the motor because the Tstat will close because your temps would drop below its threshhold. While your racing the temps increase and the Tstat opens letting you get full flow. your thinking about it to hard. thousands of guys use electric water pumps on daily drivers and they perform excelent. Get on LS1tech, camaroz28, ltxtech and do some searching around. Theres PLENTY of information on it.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Okay okay.

I see what your saying. The car will stay as cool as possible. Then when too hot the stat will open and the pump will start flowing, further helping cool the motor or keep it at a point to get the stat to close again. Totally got you now. Thanks. I really was way off huh.

But am I right when I say flow rates of a mechanical are based on RPM.

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

Yes you are! I think there is a flow chart somewhere for an LT1. its something like a max of around 60gpm at 6K rpms, and down to 20's under 3K...

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

comparing a overdriven belt driven aluminum water pump to an electric pump will see around 10hp increase and about equal tq gain. compare an underdriven belt driven water pump to a electric pump and u have about 5hp gain.

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...mp/index1.html

the post also states that stock type pumps will flow up to 100gpm depending on the pump and design. a stock type that has 30% more cooling than stock will flow close to the 100gpm mark i think. they flow 100gpm vs the aftermarket electric pumps flowing 35gpm unless u get a higher flowing 60gpm one but they cost 300$ min.

so really its not worth it to go to an electric pump.

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

haha your funny. You will NEVER see 100 gpm out of an LT1.... you will get right at 66 GPM at a little over 6K rpms. Guys I dont even know why this is being discused. 1000's of ppl run these all day long without any issues what so ever, this is not new tech... Also you cant underdrive an LT1 pump so this makes alot of sense, with the pump price at almost the same as a stock replacement there is absolutely no reason to do it.

basiccamaro

Great thread! Sorry to get away from water pumps, but can you show any pictures of the 9" rear axle installation? I want to see how people have added torque arm brackets/bolt hole bosses for attaching the torque arm (either stock or aftermarket) to a 9" Ford rear end.

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

Actually the Moser housing and axles come with the TQ arm mount provisions already installed. It works with any TQ arm.




you can also do s midwest chassis type of mount like this

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

im gona be making one like that last pic posted. but gona fab it up to work off a stock type mount like in the first 2 pics. i want to replace my jegster one with a home made adjustable

do we need that large adjuster on the bottom part? i was thinking i could just use the rod ends i have but im sure they allow adjusting on the car. wheres the best place to order them? i cant see paying 15$ shipping for a 10$ part.

radical82

The adjuster on the bottom bar has left hand threads on one end making it possible to adjust the pinion angle without having to remove the bars. Same thing used on ladder bars for spring and coil-over cars... Comp engineering makes them and some decent heim ends... Best to spend the bucks on good heims and adjusters, lots cheaper then breaking one when you launch the car!!!!!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

subscribing. Awesome job so far

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

i understand that, ive already gotten the threaded moly tube adapters and some moly teflon lined 3/4-16 rod ends. i just picked up some 3/4"bolts with nuts and lock washers. but i need the linkage adjuster.... wouldnt a coated steel one work? its just annoying to pay shipping for a 10$ part bc they dont sell them at summit/jegs when i originally placed my order.

any ideas where to get them?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_part&id=1927

there you go, tons of other places have them too

BPWilliams

Just a heads up, I talked to the manufacturer of the Electric water pump at Proform and they said no way on a race motor or high HP. They said that the elec water pump motors can not move enough water to keep the engines cool, even the high GPM ones. I really wanted to run one on my AI car but they said get a mechinical pump or I would be over heating. If you are in doubt, call the manufacturer and see if they recommend their product for your application, they will talk to you no prob...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I know a lot of guys running electric pumps without any problems. I got one on my car and the only problems are my radiator fans need adjusted to cool better and my tranny cooler/front mount intercooler block air flow to the rad so it runs hotter than I want but hasnt overheated anymore. I got over 650whp and no problems on dyno runs or track bursts.

But I will say it doesnt move a whole lot of water so I can see it being a problem on road race cars or any motor that has sustained rpm use.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

ive seen them for less than that, 10$ but the point is that i really didnt want to pay 10$ and then 10-15$ to ship it. i was hoping for a store that sold it in person. like autozone or something. I have to purchase stuff from UMI soon but they dont sell one . i was going to buy 6ft of 1.25"x.120" DOM tubing from polyperformance.com but they dont sell the adjuster either. wat i need do do is find a place that sells the tubing and the adjuster so im not paying shipping twice. all i need is the tubing and the adjuster and then i can start building my adjustable tq arm.

so now electric pumps are ok for the street? besides the wow factor/5hp ull gain/ and the headache of converters your alt/powersteering brackets theres really no point in an electric i thought. by the way, i didnt mean a stock pump could flow 100gpm but a 30% more flow than stock pump will see above 60gpm and they can reach up to 100gpm was my point.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I think they are fine just have to watch your temps to be sure, because when the pump fails the temps will rise QUICKLY. If you have a good rad and fans setup you will be fine.

I like the pump for the simple fact i can turn the pump on with the engine off to keep cooling while in the lanes at the track before runs.

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

I have been making some pretty good progress gettting the engine bay and all the little notches and hole cut in and smoothed. I got the alternator mounted and the notch filled in and smoothed out. I also notched the frame for the turbo oil drain. Im in the process of notching the Kframe to fit the 4" down pipe. Its tight as hell Through there and im hoping that increasing the exhaust to 4" will help negate the tight radius bends... we shall see

Im waiting for some stainless hardware to come in to get the intake and water pump mounted but this is where im at with the motor.




Notch for the oil drain.


PS pump in its final location, The alternator setup is complete I jsut dont have a picture, I decided to use a belt tensioner from an 05 GTO so its all factory parts with off the shelf replacements.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Awesome! Keep it up. Love the scooters perf. carbon covers

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

Ya those guys are Awesome! I called them up and they had to make a "custom" set since I didnt want them to drill any holes in them. Im adding my own breather setup on the back side by the fire wall. I also forgot to post up here my custom Cromoly TQ arm I made this back in 08 its 1.25" chromoly. The cross member in the pictures is for a 4th gen but It never got put on so Im using in for my thirdgen

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Here's an idea for a breather on some carbon covers I have on the vette. Could't do the pcv a different way so had to cut on the top. The other side uses a KRC power steering pump hookup that i had left from going to a pump mounted tank. On my camaro I have it set up just like that but using a T4 turbo drain (billet) from russel, it too comes w/ an hookups.



Love that TQ arm. Very nicely executed.

built91Z28

Twin_Turbo's idea is a great one. I got the idea from him and would like to say thanks
This is what it looks like on mine. I have a PCV on the drivers side because I couldnt find another way to do it. On the passenger side I have the tubo drain flange hooked to a -10AN 90 degree hose end with a 1/2" (it will fit but its a pain) rubber hose. The hose hooks up to the aluminum line that goes under the air filter base. You could run yours into your intake tubing.

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

Ill be doing something similar my fresh air is coming in through the valve covers,Im using fuel cell bungs at the rear of the valve covers hose with then go to a 3" aluminum tank with a breather on the top. Im making the tank myself. the vacuum will be pulling out of the crank case through the port on the driver side of the LT1 intake. The underside of the intake has a sheet metal baffle and I also have added baffles to my catch can so ZERO oil should get by and go through the turbo. Ill post up pics once I have that ironed out but itll be stupid clean

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

What a long *** day! Made some really good progress today engine bay is DONE! Blue your the man, Thanks! Some of the pics for some reason show up looking darker but the white is WHITE and really pops. I cant wait to see how the dark engine with the carbon fiber is going to look!

P.S. I dont think ill ever paint another engine bay without it being on the lift! it was SOOO easy to make sure the hard to reach places all got color. with the bar configuration theres still a couple areas that just got a light dusting but you cant see any of them.

Prepping for primer

Primer time.

Primer complete

PAINT!

radical82

Engine bay really looks great! All the extra work is really worth it once it's done!

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

looks great! awsome job. i can see roll bar gussets welded to the front subframe in the engine bay... wat are they for?

also your tq arm looks like a spohn arm... did u build it to the same specs? i just made a adjustable tq arm that uses the jegster tunnel mount. i made mine from 1.25"x.120 DOM tubing. i had some issues with the adjuster tho... i can only make small adjustments to pinion angle... i think i can only get like 4 ish degrees of pinion change. and what are you setting pinion angle at ride height? im gona shoot for like -1ish. but i hear different specs for different things. auto setup -2 to -4 degrees? drag setup -1 to 0 degrees?

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

The tubes in the engine bay tie into the motor plate bracket. See the flat vertical plate with the two holes in it? thats where the motor plate mounts and it needed somethign on top to give it strength.

I didnt use anyone specs persay jsut took what I liked from each. its 1.25CM .120 wall and I think I had my old setup adjusted to -3 at ride height.

micktroup2

You missed a spot...

crazy_hotrodder

very, very nice build, mines still stuck in atl and I need to trailer it out here. I might just have to stop by and take a look on my way through Nash cause that is making my last 2 years work feel half ***.

JeremyNYR

iTrader: (2)

WOWWWW!!!! This is going to be one amazing Camaro when it's done! I absolutely love all the customizing you're doing. It'll be one very unique build!

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys! its been difficult to find time to work on it, trying to get 3-4 other cars built and ready to race its tough to stay on track! Next week the engine and trans is going in and Im not letting anything stop me! about the only thing I need to do fabrication wise is the charge piping and the 4" down pipe. Then its on to wiring!