this is the beginning of my 25.5 cage

 

 

Nice work sir, welds look good and so does the cage!

 

looking good so far, what are your plans for the car?

 

I plan on running a 275 drag radial class in florida. it will be a small block with a single turbo. The class is call real street.
If those plans fall through and the class get out of hand there will be a 632 big chief headed motor going in to it and it will be a grudge race car. A friend has a pro car and its not competitive enough in pro street so it might go in there.

 

any pictures of what you've done to the front "frame" by the transmission?

 

no not yet, where we cut the frame and welded a plate we added a bar that attaches to it and it ties in to the bar the runs from rocker to rocker behind the seat.

 

i may do something similar to that on the car i'm building, gonna put a track pak on it, i have a bolt in replacement one in my room waiting to go on, but i'm thinking the track pak is gonna be a better deal for my car

 

hey chris. the welding guy did a good job there.

 

Looking great man. - What size tubs are those? They appear to fit fairly nice.

 

they are the 40" wheel tubs Applied Racing Technologys

 

Nice job on the cage.

 

thanks for the info. Everyt thread you see about tubs says, "just get the smallest offered" - smallest offered by whom? Those seem to fit in the car clean, and the radius looks good.

Are you leaving the rear braces up that high to allow the possibility to full tub/backhalf one day, or just because? I've seen several cars done that way, just curious.

 

im gonna leave the bracing where its at.
i know what you mean "the smallest ones they offer". WTF from who?
i ordered the biggest ones that applied had. they are steel.
you will end up cutting themalmost in half long ways. I ordered the biggest ones so that way i knew id have enough, and it also gives you extra metal to use else where.

 

mini tubs are a pain in the ***.

 

I was certain there woud be a lot of tub width to be wasted with most any aftermarket tub. I'm sure they're a pain, but IMO the end result is much cleaner. There is no amount of BFH or panel work that will look nearly as clean when finished.

The bars are fine where they are, I was just curious. Most cars' I've seen were done that way and I couldn't remember if maybe there was a specific spec for the placement of those bars in the 25.5 specs; I haven't even looked at them in a year or so now.

 

updates?

 

None at the moment. the only thing done now is that the whole cage has been lowered through the floor and fully welded.
The funny car window net mounts are on and the parachute handle bracket is welded along with the chute cable clamp bracket.
As of now the cage needs to be pushed back up in the floor and weled to the car its self.
It needs to have to X made in the doors and rocker bars made and the 2 rear bars that run to to the back of the car and attached to the frame rails, trans mount also needs to be added.

We are also making a torque are. the pivot for the front of the torque arm will be where the yoke pivots on the drive shaft.

 

That's a fairly long arm; well, I guess if you're sticking with a th400, then that's about where I'll have mine too. Are you going to run a shackle type pivot? Any up/down adjustment?

Are you running the frame pipes all under the car, or are you going to run them through the car?

 

the piviot for the front will be able to move back and forth and adjustable up and down.
the bars that run along the floor that run through the floor

 

here is a picture of the bars through the floor

 

Ok, so partial sunk on the inner rails. What about the rocker pipes, the center x and the diagonals between the inner rails and the rocker pipes? I'm guessing they'll be punched through where needed and under the car where possible?

 

a few more pics

 

That thing is looking really good man.

I'm still debating on mine whether I'm going to run the rocker pipes like that or under the car. They look clean like that, but it makes fitting the center x and the side diagonals considerably more tricky. They all have to run partially inside, partially outside, thus various notches in the floor/tunnel.

Out of curiousity, you planning to have two cars or selling the other one?

 

thanks, the black and white car is gone.
at times i wish i had it back cause it would be still running and i could be racing up here in georgia in real street. .

Hot as hell.. heres pics of my buddys blazer we brought up here

 

I've seen that blazer on YB and over at Sunshine. Very sweet/nasty ride. I know he was fighting a couple small issues on the chassis tune, but from what I've seen he has definitely got it flyin now. - Unforetunately we weren't able to get the car together in time to be up there for Outlaw 632, and I couldn't justify spending the coin just to go watch.

Did you sell the white/black car turn-key or as a roller? - what I'm getting at is what is going in this one for power?

 

The Blazer has a wheel standing issue, we try to keep it on the ground but when we do it slows it down, thank to TRZ motorsports to all there help i think we got it where it needs to be.

im building the car for 275 real street, it will be small block power.

 

The boys at TRZ seem to be really great guys. I saw from the pics that the wagon stood up pretty big again.

Good luck with it man. I'll be looking for future updates.

 

i should be getting the car back tonight and then it down hill from there.
As far as the guys at TRZ they are some of the nicest people in the industry.
Eric stepped up the tune up on the pass against pixley and it went to the sky

 

 

i finally got the car home,the cage is painted, K-member and a-arms and rack has been installed and Motor plate. As of last night i was mocking up the steering shaft.

 

I thought it might have been hme from the pics in the other thread. - It came out really nice man, you definitely got your moneys worth on the cage job(and then some).

For note, I'm not sure why I was thinking of it needing the full "x" underneath, as it's not required with stock floors/tunnel.

 

any under car pics?

 

Not bad for 2500.00 for a 25.5 job. There is no need for an X under the floor on a car with a stock trans tunnel like you said.

My buddy just dropped his yates headed small block powered mustang off to the same guy for a 25.5 job also.

 

this is the end of the front sub frame that he cut off

He made this torque arm also. the patches in the floor are where bars run through and connect the the front sub frame.

 

That thing came out great man. Very nice indeed especially for $2500.

I posted in this thread showing part of the last arm I did(bracket as well, 8.8 rear). Still finishing up the car it's in; buddy's '68 stang coupe, full tube, but full street car ammenities and 17" wheels. It's double frame rail(upper rails create the top edges of the trans/ds tunnel because he didn't want a cage in it. - I didn't want to hi-jack and post any pics in here.

Out of curiousity, are you on need2speed?

 

car looks awesome, thats a really really good deal on having the chassis work done

 

i am signed up for that site, i hardly ever go on it,

 

It's a pretty good site, you should check it out a little more. I've got a build thread over there for my buddy's '68 coupe I mentioned above. - Plus the DH events are really awesome, and the new street car shoot-out would be a perfect place for you to play when the car gets finished. We'll be at Bradenton this Sat for DH10.

Anyhow, keep us updated on your progress.

 

i went on there this morning , i found you're screen name nad i seen the mustang that you are doing. that thing ought to be fun.
i got the k member in, steering shaft and tube steering colum is in and i started to mount shifter and i will finish that tonight. will try and take pics

 

It should be a very fun street cruiser. He wanted to be able to push the car hard in straights as well as corners, yet be very comfortable to go cross-country if need be, and didn't want a cage. That is the result.

R&P steering?

 

it has a pinto rack and and tube type steering column.

 

what front K member are you using? PA racing, Racecraft? how's the quality and fit?

 

It is made by vern house at vern house racecars. It fits great. Good Quality.

 

thanks man, car looks great

 

you're welcome. thanks

 

Are you modding the spindles to correct the geometry or maybe going with the racecraft spindles?

I haven't changed mine in the 10.5 car, but I like the slower reaction speed in it. The only time the limited radius really effects it is coming into and out of the pits. Other than requiring a couple full turns of the wheel, I haven't really cared. - My next build will be along the same lines as what you are building now though, and it will see some street time. I'm debating which way to go, but will definitely want a better turning radius with it.

 

fill me in on this? i have no idea what you are talking about? My old car had no geometry issues that i was aware of.
[quote=Shagwell;4186651]Are you modding the spindles to correct the geometry or maybe going with the racecraft spindles?

 

with a pinto rack the tie rods don't move as far as the stock gearbox/linkage setup, so the turning radius is reduced with the rack. moving the holes where the links attatch to the spindle closer to ball joint fixes this problem. racecraft makes spindles that already correct this issue, and allow you to run the 10 way mustang struts.

 

Oh ok, i see, im not worried about that. im just setting it up the same as the old car , it worked ok. I did notice when i went to the manual rack from the steering box the turn radius was less.