OK...so i have a 92 camaro z28, and just put in a 350 engine in it with carb...no more ecu and imm. So..i ran my own electric pump by summit and holley reg. OK....so i tried this and it DOES NOT WORK, if u put a external pump. You need to take out the OLD IN TANK DEAD PUMP. if you don’t you pump will not last and be extremely LOAD....and it wont give ur engine the fuel u need. So...i decided to take it out....but to take the fuel pump out u have to do a a lot of work. till i stumbled across the access door that you can mod for your trunk...let me tell u...save me sooo much time and when ever I want to mess with my fuel pump or anything in involving the tank its very east to get to. so i took picks for this mod to show people how to do it...some people may not like this because i did it the wrong way, but next time i need to get to fuel pump...i don’t have to take out my whole rearEND! AHA .

 

so this is the measurement and the first cut....1" from the sides ...between the two groves of trunk floor. I drilled a hole so i can use my shear cutters. they were like 70 bucks at home depot ....you dont need them but i had them when i did my floor boards with sheet metal, good investment though. I also use with the access door.

 

OK this was the hardest part...cutting the lines....YES YOU DO NEED TO CUT THE lines. u cant snake them through...I tried, but there clamped in from the top tank, the part u can only get if u drop the tank. so u do have to cut them...i didn’t use my pipe cutter yet because it would not fit because the pipes were too close together...I sniped them with a bolt cutter then used my pipe cutter to fix both ends...you will want to have space between both lines when you are done which you will replace with rubber hose (high pressure)

 

OK one the lines are cut. you have to move the locking ring...i used a flat head and hammer...don’t hit it too hard. Ok then u pull up...than to the right...and should come out.

 

ok..now this is were i got into the zone and forgot to take picks! im sorry. but let me explain what i did. Now you take the assembly out. Take of the black factory strainer, and pop the bottom of the pump out…. and it should slide off the pick up line. then i unpluged it and zip tied it to the pick up line so it was out the way. OK now...if your just replacing the pump, put on exactly the way u took it off...for me i had an external pump...so i just kept it off..but now the pick up line is too short...so what you do is get some of the same high pressure hose...clamp it to the pickup line (you one you took the pump off) and make is same length as the bottom of the factory pump . buy a universal strainer clamp it on the end and your golden.

 

ok now put the pump back in the same way you took it out..make sure you get a new seal ring ....its like 3 bucks. now just attach the lines with high pressure rubber hose and clamps!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! test your fuel pump. make sure there’s no leaks! The access door is currently drying from its paint job so ill post the rest tomorrow! Hope this helps! P.s. i an going to wire brush them lines...its only surface rust only on the top.

 

A few problems

1) High pressure EFI line isnt necessary for carb pressures and will NOT survive long inside the tank submerged in gas. Pull it out and use submersible hose

2) With the pickup flopping around in the tank you may experience starvation around curves, even when you're not severely low on fuel. The stock pickup is located inside several baffles to keep the gas at the pickup

3) Your carb may not notice any ill effects from this mod, but EFI engines operate at a much higher pressure and where your feed line is reconnected (generally with rubber hose/clamps) is vulnerable to rupture

If you had a 4th gen, this mod would be A-ok, all my gripes are easily remedied, but your 3rd is different. Please dont spread this as the gospel, Im tired of welding up botched floor cuts

 

so what exactly is different about 4th gens that makes this OK and not on 3rd gens?

 

Do you plan on a flare // double flare where the hoses are clamped?
I'm not hip to this kind of stuff, but my , I would give the hose clamps something to hold on to.

 

i dont see why people think they need to drop the rear to drop the tank. i just dropped mine to swap the pump and i just had to pull the exhaust, the rear stayed in and gave my no troubles.

 

Lines end inside the cutout area, so none have to be cut to remove the sender

 

IMHO
I don't think this should be a tutorial.
Its not restoration or modding for that manor its destruction.

Even when its done correctly, (if there is such a thing) Its sketchy at best. Gas Fumes everytime i drive, reminding me how i was too lazy to do it the right way? No thanks.

Good Job on the idea of fabrication and DIYing. Maybe you could write a follow up on how to fix this hack job?

 

I just replaced the heater core on an '88 Camry for my daughter and I am not lying when I say dropping the rear/gas tank on a camaro is easier....do it right and drop the tank.

 

Here we go again....

And JackRS...if you were to get gas fumes in your cabin after doing the "trap door mod"...you did something wrong. Shouldnt be any fumes coming through it at all.

OP: I agree with what Pocket said regarding the pick up hose etc. And I also agree with maybe flaring the lines, even with a single flare. There isnt that much pressure, but its just added insurance.

J.

 

i would think that using no flexible lines in the tank would be better. i just pulled my tank and took out the pump. i replaced it withe a high pressure fitting ( union fitting-brass) and fit in a peice of steel line to match the length, i kept the flare on the end to slide the screening over , and clamped it on. now it shouldnt ever fall off. it also runs through the ring on the bottom ( obviously) but now all the lines in the tank are metal . i also pulled the wire out for the old pump and pulled it from the pigtail . works good.

also i used to use that factory tank pump on my carb.!! you can do this if you desire , but i hated having all the extra wires and switch for it , if you want to use it you can hook the pump up through the relay to a switch. then you need a high pressure/low pressure regulator with a return. i ran mine like that for 6 years, and the factory pump was still good the day i took it out

 

now i have an 80 dollar regulator that i cant use anymore cause its desined for high pressure to low pressure, so my block pump cant push more then two pounds through it, oh well , ill have to get the right one for the setup i have now,
i also seen on one of the posts here that someone was running the factory pump on a carb and had a regulator, but couldnt get the pressure below 15 lbs...thats because he had the wrong regulator.. if i find him again , ill see if he wants my regulator.....or maybe he will see this post and find me , who knows, anyway the setup i had with the factory pump does work..

 

as far as cutting the access door in the back,,, what for? if your not gonna have an electric pump in there anymore, then what do you need the door for? i guess if you dont put new lines in , you may need to get at the tank again. so just put new lines in, then your good til you die. or put in stainless or aluminum lines, or whatever you prefer, shouldnt need to get in there again.

 

What size are the fuel line? I want to buy the metal connectors after they are cut instead of the hose but not sure what size to buy.

 

3/8" feed and vent
5/16" return and EVAP

 

Thank you!

 

Mines been like that since before I bought the car, and I have never smelled gas, or heard a squeak out of it...It was siliconed, and machine screwed shut....I just discovered it today when I dropped the tank.....Quite a surprise....

 

I managed to remove the sending unit without cutting the lines to install a new pump i just had to cut a 7"x 12 1/2" hole and dropped the tank where it sat on top of rear end and exhaust pipe which gave me 1 1/2' space between the tank and the hole and moved the sending unit around and fished it out, no worries. I got pics and will be posting them on my profile soon to prove to some folks that said there was no way but cutting the fuel lines to get the sending unit out.

 

Why cut a hole if you're already dropping the tank?

 

I didn't drop the tank all the way out, I just removed the tank straps, let the tank rest on top of the rear end and the exhaust that i didn't have to cut. Being accustomed to working on cars on a lift and not having that luxury anymore, working on the ground wrestling an emtpy tank running a risk of jacking up the filler neck, I choose not to do it. Plus I was confedident that you can get the sending unit out without cutting the fuel lines when the disconnects are not far away and I succeeded by cuttting out a 7"x12 1/2" hole which was a little bigger from everyone elses. Dropped the tank where i had room to work and fished that sucker out. It took pretty much the same time to get it in and out as the standard way just without wrestling on the ground part which I enjoy not doing

 

I'm sorry but I have to say something. It seems every single post someone attempts to make on a fuel pump access door, even the ones that are done correctly gets bashed and labeled a hack job/******* fix.

IIRC, the fuel pump access door was STOCK on the 4th gen. So why is it OK that the 4th gen comes with this part stock, GM obviously learning from their mistake, while the 3rd gen does not and anyone who even THINKS about doing this mod is labeled a hacker fixer upper?

If YOU want to gripe about how EASY (and interesting for the mod!) this job could be and spend hours on your back taking apart a good portion of the rear of the car, be my guest.

Personally if my FP ever goes out, F going through all that headache and F paying all that labor, the shears are coming out. I think if done PROPERLY IE a proper sized and clean cut hole, paired with a properly fastened lid and GASKET SEALED to eliminate foreign material entering the car, this mod is one hell of a wise decision.

BTW if you have that large of a quantity of fumes entering the car in any which way you have a MUCH bigger problem on your hands than a hole in your floor. I would be concerned about where the leak in my fuel system was. If you don't believe me, try driving down the street with your gas cap off. The small amount of gas spewing out the filler neck is potent enough to fill the inside of the car with the scent WHILE DRIVING AT 40MPH WITH THE WIND SUPPOSEDLY CARRYING THE FUMES AWAY.