Wile measuring what size spacers i need to install C6 Corvette wheels i realized the rear was off to one side about 3/8.
I had some 3/4 pipe laying around and some 3/4 threaded rod so i decided to build an adjustable Panhard bar, since i didn't have any left hand thread stuff i had to do it this way so it could be adjusted wile installed.

I used 39" of 3/4 heavy gauge pipe (the stuff they use for natural gas connections) and 10" of 3/4 threaded rod

You need to have 43" from center to center (stock size) leaving equal amount of adjustment both ways

I cut a 36" section of pipe and another 3", weld the small section on the long one like on the picture, use a spacer (i used a 6" nail) for the nut clearance (it's a 1&1/4 nut). make sure it's straight.

Cut the ends of the factory one with about 2" of bar with it
weld one to about 10" of 3/4 threaded rod and the other on the end of the 36" pipe, you might have to crush the pipe a Little to fit inside the stock bar section.

And that's pretty much it, i might use double nuts but i's probably not necessary, i didn't tested it yet but clearance shouldt be a problem.

 

well you get an E for effort, but i wouldn't trust it holding.

 

That double tube end is scary looking. Why not just put the threaded rod in the main tube? Why double tube it?

 

it's alot strongger than the stock one, allot heavyer too the pipe is 1.065 outside diameter and has 0.155 thick walls, the 3/4 rod fits tight inside, it's a monster compared to some aftermarket ones

 

if i put the tread inside the main tube i would have to remove it every time i need to adjust, like that i can adjust it both ways wile installed, but then again you probably only have to adjust it once and it would be allot essayer to build
The weld is strong enough it has 3 passes on both sides at full heat, it can be reinforced with some flat stock but the way it is it could easily support 3 times the cars full weight
If you look at the stock one where the bar connects to the bushing housings that is some tinny welds in there

 

Weight does not equal strength

The rod end welded to the common threaded rod disturbs me. Normal threaded rod stock is grade 5 i.e. butter bolt. When its welded the properties can go to anything. The pipe isnt ideal but likely will be heavy enough not to matter since this is a tension/compression part

The effort is good, but please dont run this on the streets

 

the weld at the rod is the weakest point but it's 3/4 thick and welded at low heat inside and out, it's not the standard grade rod but it's not chrome molly either, the pipe is seamless steel tubing but the walls 0.060 thicker than the aftermarket DOM ones.
I will install it tomorrow and take it for some donuts and moutain roads test, i'm building a spare one just in case

 

looks legit... don't die testing it

 

black pipe is very strong, check most home made mini bikes and you will find black pipe, got some plans from the 50s for that. Even seen a VW buggy made from gas pipe once [had to weigh 30tons] it was the big 4-6" galv water pipe and somehow 90% of it was using pipe fittings for the joints/ angle changes, not welds. Have use 1/2" pipe to make chopper forks for a bicycle, long n raked, had some flex n bounce but no bend or break.

Recently made a pull up bar [P90X] and the 3ft span wouldn't budge an inch from my big butt, yet had to take it down cause the ceiling was moving

The problem I have been told is it can break next to the weld for some reason. Have never seen it. Stuff bends up nice too, can almost do pretzel bends and out of id say a good 40 pieces of pipe, I only seen 1 fail, the pipe ripped open instead of bending, but it was a sharp bend.

Other mystery pipe is the dreaded electrical conduit.
Yet have seen it used on many car building shows, like the old Boyd show, that old metal guy [who died before Boyd], used it to build that whole 57 Chevy bike.

I have use it to build light weight racks [that took my full weight as a test] and a pully buggy for the dog.

 

this pipe comes to the shop and job sites in 20 feet length and it's used in all types of custom fabrication including hard hydraulic lines, railings, steam lines, fire sprinklers, high pressure gas lines, it's nice because the walls are so thick that you can use high heat on the welder getting a good penetration without burning through, the only down point i see is it's heavier than carbon steel pipe for the same resistance ratio, but the best thing... it's free for me
All the materials i used are stuff we trow in the scrap dumpster

 

here it is installed, tested, no donuts just some hard turns, it's holding so far, I'll be replacing the shocks soon, at that time i will take it off for new bushings, grease fittings and a close inspection

 

Look at all those weights on the inside of that rim... sorry its a profession habit. Couldn't resist

 

LOL, you should see the other one, it has the max allowed, i was supposed to go back and have them spun 180 degrees cause at the time the machine craped out but there is no vibration, that's one of the reasons I'm replacing the wheels, can't expect much from 26 year old rims

 

Yea I had he same problem with mine and had a bad vibration. Thought I had 4 bent rims. We bought a new $5000 computer ballancer and turns out the machine was just crap. Now it only takes a combined weight of an ounce on each wheel and no vibration at all. Even at 140mph lol im happy

 

OK panhard bar is a keeper now starting a torque arm relocation bracket, with the big 285/35/19 and the 355 i don't think the 700r4 tailshaft is going to make it

 

I'm sorry but that panhard bar is just plain scary. The forces are not in a straight line and with enough force the bar will buckle in the middle. Should have spent the $50 dollars to get the correct left/right threaded rod ends and done it right or just left it alone until you could. I love seeing people build stuff for their cars but not when it jeopardizes others on the road.

 

it's been tested and retested, measurements were taken before and after the test, more tests will be done after the C6 wheels, I'm not planing on doing on the road what i did on the test, my car is not meant for street rally or drift not even 1/4 mile, it's my dally ride.
Trust me, if i can afford the gas to drive it 120 miles a day 4 days a week ( i drive the Hemi on Fridays) i have no problem spending $150.00 on a aftermarket bar if i knew this one isn't up to the task.

 

Why don't you work on the torque arm itself while you are at it? Maybe put gussets on the inside of it to stiffen it up and also work on the lower control arms... maybe plate the bottom of them. I'd imagine it can only improve handling.

 

Very cool. For being free that's hard to beat, even if it were to cost a little in parts. As for everyone saying it's not strong enough, that'll happen. Everyone gets a few arrows before they get a pat on the back

 

An update 2 years after for does who didn't believe it would hold together, installed new bushings last year, caught black ice last winter and hit the curb with the rear passenger side wheel, bent the C5 rim, bent the axle, bar didn't even move, still holding strong