GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I have a friend getting rid of an Autopower 4 point rollbar that was in his 2002 Camaro. Does anyone know if this would be a direct bolt in (weld in) to a third gen?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

rear bars in 4th gens usually go through the speaker holes into the wheelwell area. Nothing some cutting and welding can't fix. Not sure why you'd want that over just buying a new comp. engineering kit and welding it up, they're cheap as well and would fit better.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Why? Because it's hard to find something cheaper than "free".

Are you saying the rear bars attach to the top of the wheelwells on 4th gens? I'm not a fan of that. You are right that if it's going to require cutting and welding to make it fit, it's worth spending the extra to get the correct one.

Car it is intended for will just be a weekend crusier/autocross/track toy.

Thanks!

Andrew91GT

I would be more worried about the fitment of the main hoop. Everything else is fairly easily fixable.

AlkyIROC

If you have to do a lot of modification to make it work, free isn't free.

Even if it's "free", a 4 point roll bar is nothing more than cosmetic and adds weight to the car. To protect you in case of a roll over, you're going to want at least a proper welded in 6 point roll bar which also means the back seat becomes useless.

If you just want something cosmetic, make it out of exhaust tubing. It will offer the same amount of protection.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

This* is destined for my wife's car if it ever gets finished ('91 RS T-tops, mild 350/T56). Weekend cruiser, autocross and open lapping. I've seen enough totalled street cars at TWS doing lapping sessions to warrant a 4pt rollbar. It will also have 6 point harnesses. Plus, she's the one who said she wants a 4pt, and I'm not gonna argue that one.

*edit* This, as in a 4 pt, not this as in this particular 4th gen rollbar. *edit*

Yeah, I can agree on this.

I'm a touch confused by all this, and I think part of it might be due to the definition of a 6pt.

When I think of 4pt, I'm thinking main hoop, 2 straight back stays, cross (harness) bar, and a main diagonal. When I think 6 point rollbar, I think the above plus two door bars (I'd add a stump bar each side too). 6 pt rollcage add the a-pillar bars, windshield bar, dash bar, more door bars (minimum an X, if not NASCAR bars). I don't think my wife will have to be hopping over door bars all the time, so I'm gonna have to say no to a 6pt.

That said, maybe are you saying a 6 pt is a (my definition of a) 4pt plus the two that goto the trans tunnel? I don't see how that is much better than a 4pt. I'm also failing to see how exhaust tubing would offer the same protection in a rollover as a 1 3/4 .095 DOM bar. Are you suggesting the possibility of the baseplates punching thru the floor? Even with a full cage, if the baseplates are improperly sized, this is still a possibility. The only solution there is to have good baseplates.

I'm of the feeling that any main hoop and rear bars make the back seats useless anyways, regardless of 4 pt, 6 pt, 8pt, 10pt, so they will be removed. Good thing third gens have the back seat area already carpeted.

I didn't feel the need to mention this in my initial post, but the bars would be welded (not bolted) and the baseplates most likely enlarged/reinforced. Is that as safe as a full cage? No. Better than nothing? I believe so. And worth every bit of added weight IMHO.