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I'm new to this posting thing so forgive me if I'm skipping a proper intro thread somewhere. If so let me know. My name is Lynn, (male) 48 years young, long retired street/strip bracket racer with even a few years of dirt roundy round experience. I've been wanting to build another street/strip car for years and life has just gotten in the way. I even made an attempt almost 10 years ago at a big tire, tube chassis third gen and again life got in the way. I wound up selling it as a roller.
Soooo.... Here I am today starting new. I bought a very tired '90 RS coupe a couple years ago (the same time I discovered this site) and I'm just getting started on it. Initial plans were the same as my past builds back in the day. A Nitrous huffing big block chevy, th400 trans and a spooled 9". I was up in the air on back halving the car or not. After reading several build threads on this site, I see you guys are having way too much fun with these drag radial, turbo LS cars. So.. I'm convinced. I'm not a lottery winner and I do all of my own work so this will stretch out over a couple years at best. Anyway, here are the current plans so far...
-Stripping the car of everything not necessary to go fast but remain street legal in NC. (Horn, lights, wipers, full exhaust will remain)
-manual steering and brakes
-Weld in SFCs
-10 point Mild steel cage
-9" rear with spool, 3.50ish gear, 35 spline axles, lightweight discs
-Racecraft K member / control arms / rack and pinion / lightweight discs
-front coil over conversion/ double adjustable struts
-all Spohn or similar control arms, panhard bar and torque arm
-adjustable rear shocks
-I plan to keep interior except rear seat (and light as possible)
-turbo(s) powered LS
-trans TBD
-all steel except hood
Here's the beginnings of the roller I sold several years ago
Sold factory wheels so I ordered up welds and 275 drag radials. Got a great deal on the 4" hood but this was when I was thinking big block. Now going with a twin turbo LS wishing I had a flat hood. We shall see
I love the direction your going, nothing's better than a street car if you don't have time and money to race often. I'm also real new to the site but I can't seem to find out how to post new stuff, can't figure out if I'm missing something or restricted. Are you going to make it drivable with a engine swap or wait to get brakes and suspension to street it?
I love the direction your going, nothing's better than a street car if you don't have time and money to race often. I'm also real new to the site but I can't seem to find out how to post new stuff, can't figure out if I'm missing something or restricted. Are you going to make it drivable with a engine swap or wait to get brakes and suspension to street it?
Ha! Glad I'm not the only one! I had to google how to post on here. Still not sure I'm doing it right.
I plan to complete the car, paint and all before I take it to the street. May run around these country roads a bit when I can just to make sure I don't have any issues. I do plan to race it some but I'm not in to bracket racing that much so it'll be a street car first. I have the car stripped as far as I can go and still be able to move it. I started this thread on fab because subframe connectors and 10 point cage will be the first things I do. Not sure if that's really considered "fab" but it's the closest thing I saw.
Subbed. Since I can't work on my build right now I'm living vicariously through the work of others. Sounds like you have a good plan in place, looking forward to seeing it come together.
Originally Posted by Padgett21
Ha! Glad I'm not the only one! I had to google how to post on here. Still not sure I'm doing it right.
I think you've got the hang of it! There is a section for build threads, but as you said you're working on fabrication stuff I think it makes more sense to post here. I am not an expert though.
Did you tear down the block and trans for fun? I traded my v6 trans for the first small block I swapped into my car about 20 years ago. Seeing that thing brings back high school memories.
What power level are you interested in? A stock 5.3 with a single turbo can do 500 hp, after that (from everything I've read) you have basically pulled the pin on a grenade and are waiting for it to explode. I would just try to find a national chain'd parts yard and try to nab a 6.0/5.3 engine, wiring harness and tranny combo during one of their sale weekends. If you keep the engine stock and just add boost you will come out ahead in the cost Vs power equation. When you start talking about building up the LS with internals it will cost more than a SBC or BBC build because of all the conversion and modification parts to make it work in a car meant for a SBC.
There are differences in Spohn vs UMI vs BMR Vs Founders as far as suspension parts are concerned but depending on your situation the differences may not be worth the price. My car hasn't been driven in rain or mud or snow or dusty roads in the five years since I did the bulk of my suspension yet some of my Founders rod ends have begun to seize. My Spohn ends (which have been mentioned as a better quality) are still good.
As far as subframe connectors go I whole heartily urge you to build your own, especially if it is just the outer connectors. After I learned to weld and started buying my own steel I couldn't believe that they sell the outer connectors for so much.
Did you tear down the block and trans for fun? I traded my v6 trans for the first small block I swapped into my car about 20 years ago. Seeing that thing brings back high school memories.
It was more or less to make it easier to haul away. I found out pretty quickly I couldn't even give the motor and trans away so it all went to scrap. Engine had a broken ring land and the bearings were pretty well gone. What little fluid the trans had in it was badly burnt. Glad I wasn't expecting a runner.
What power level are you interested in? A stock 5.3 with a single turbo can do 500 hp, after that (from everything I've read) you have basically pulled the pin on a grenade and are waiting for it to explode. I would just try to find a national chain'd parts yard and try to nab a 6.0/5.3 engine, wiring harness and tranny combo during one of their sale weekends. If you keep the engine stock and just add boost you will come out ahead in the cost Vs power equation. When you start talking about building up the LS with internals it will cost more than a SBC or BBC build because of all the conversion and modification parts to make it work in a car meant for a SBC.
There are differences in Spohn vs UMI vs BMR Vs Founders as far as suspension parts are concerned but depending on your situation the differences may not be worth the price. My car hasn't been driven in rain or mud or snow or dusty roads in the five years since I did the bulk of my suspension yet some of my Founders rod ends have begun to seize. My Spohn ends (which have been mentioned as a better quality) are still good.
As far as subframe connectors go I whole heartily urge you to build your own, especially if it is just the outer connectors. After I learned to weld and started buying my own steel I couldn't believe that they sell the outer connectors for so much.
I found this article and a lot more like it to be very interesting and this is actually what swayed me to go this route.
I think these engines can take a beating if you watch your timing and keep your boost tightly controlled. I'd be happy with a basically stock 5.3 at say 800hp long enough to get my chassis dialed in and build a forged 6.0.
Spohn seems to have a good rep so I'll probably go that way on suspension parts.
I already have UMI SFCs but you're absolutely right. Anyone with a little fab skill can make them.
how do those 275 drag radials fit? any clearance issues?
The fit looks good and I can't remember the back spacing I got on the wheels. I copied what someone else on here did. I see a lot of guys have cut the bumpstops off for more clearance but I think mine are fine. I obviously haven't hit the tires hard yet to really know.
I have the UMI SFC and they fit great. I would have bought something more serious if I knew were I would take the car eventually because they lighten them up on the pass side for exhaust clearance and I have duals down the center now. I used the jegster torque arm for maximum exhaust clearance.
I have the UMI SFC and they fit great. I would have bought something more serious if I knew were I would take the car eventually because they lighten them up on the pass side for exhaust clearance and I have duals down the center now. I used the jegster torque arm for maximum exhaust clearance.
I've looked them over and I can see areas where they could be improved but I think they will serve their purpose ok especially with a 10 point helping out.
Do you have a link you can share for the jegster TA? I've heard of it before but I can't find it for some reason.
I plan on center exhaust as well. What size did you run? Any clearance issues?
Still have some things to remove but I'm getting there. I'm so ready to put something ON the car instead of taking it off. Lol!
Car was obviously white originally. Has a cheap drive thru paint job on it. Of course the previous owner said the car had never been wrecked but the right side of the core/fender support says different. Only rust that would concern me is the battery tray but that will come out. I really like what some guys out there have done by removing the entire core support and fabbing it up with mild steel tubing. That would do away with the damage and rust on my car.
Bought a small tig welder from eastwood. I have a mig but would prefer to tig my cage. Brushing up a little on some scrap. It's been a while. I'll beat this thing to death with my BFH when it's a decent time of day and make sure I've got good penetration and no cold spots. It could be prettier but I'm not ashamed of it. Lol
i think the jegster torque arm and a few other products for thirdgens were discontinued because the guy that made them retired? it's a shame because they were nice products at a fair price.
Awesome! I'm so excited to see how this turns out. I believe there was an article published about a destroked 6.0 that spun crazy high rpm with boost to keep piston speed manageable. Well, if you really don't like that hood, I'd take it off your hands. But seriously, sick hood, dude.
i think the jegster torque arm and a few other products for thirdgens were discontinued because the guy that made them retired? it's a shame because they were nice products at a fair price.
That would explain why I can't find it anywhere. Thanks!
Awesome! I'm so excited to see how this turns out. I believe there was an article published about a destroked 6.0 that spun crazy high rpm with boost to keep piston speed manageable. Well, if you really don't like that hood, I'd take it off your hands. But seriously, sick hood, dude.
Thanks Joe! Tons of YouTube videos out there too of guys making crazy HP with serious boost on junkyard 5.3s and 4.8s. Check out the trailer trash malibu on YouTube.
I understand, surprising everyone is the best part of a sleeper. If you do go with a flat hood, I'll give you what you paid for that hood . Any idea what you're going to do for turbos? A unit off of a 7.3 powerstroke or a cummins would do nicely I think. IIRC the powerstrokes are 66mm, and the ones from the 6.0's are the variable scroll.
I understand, surprising everyone is the best part of a sleeper. If you do go with a flat hood, I'll give you what you paid for that hood . Any idea what you're going to do for turbos? A unit off of a 7.3 powerstroke or a cummins would do nicely I think. IIRC the powerstrokes are 66mm, and the ones from the 6.0's are the variable scroll.
I think these engines can take a beating if you watch your timing and keep your boost tightly controlled. I'd be happy with a basically stock 5.3 at say 800hp long enough to get my chassis dialed in and build a forged 6.0.
Spohn seems to have a good rep so I'll probably go that way on suspension parts.
I already have UMI SFCs but you're absolutely right. Anyone with a little fab skill can make them.
Articles like that are fun to read but they don't have much usefulness. David Vizard has done the same things with regular SBC stuff and made something like 900 hp before he began having any failures. They used really high octane racing gas (30 points higher than whats available on the street) whereas regular street gas would have pre-ignition issues that may have damaged the rotating assembly long before their power level was reached. Also, just because they did 100 pulls doesn't mean it would last a season. On a dragstrip an engine may do the equivalent of 4 dyno pulls. If you plan on taking a stock engine past 500 rear wheel hp on pump gas I would definitely use a trailer for transport.
Articles like that are fun to read but they don't have much usefulness. David Vizard has done the same things with regular SBC stuff and made something like 900 hp before he began having any failures. They used really high octane racing gas (30 points higher than whats available on the street) whereas regular street gas would have pre-ignition issues that may have damaged the rotating assembly long before their power level was reached. Also, just because they did 100 pulls doesn't mean it would last a season. On a dragstrip an engine may do the equivalent of 4 dyno pulls. If you plan on taking a stock engine past 500 rear wheel hp on pump gas I would definitely use a trailer for transport.
I'm THAT guy that must find and push the limits. Lol
Maybe some spray to really make sure that bottom end doesn't last
Where are you located, and where are you thinking of running? I'd love to see what this thing could do on a stretch of open runway...
Wouldn't be the first time I've run over my crankshaft. Lol
I'm in Clayton, NC. Right outside of Raleigh. Piedmont and Galot are the 2 closest tracks but they're both 1/8
I absolutely love MegaSquirt, I am a fanboy. The only argument that can be made against the most current version of MegaSquirt is price. If you are going LS and already have an LS PCM then it may be cheaper for you to just buy the LS editing software. There are also many more people who are acclimated to the LS editing software than their are MS software guys. Even though the MS software is obscenely easy. In the Chicago suburbs there were no dyno operators that knew how to use MS software (Not that I needed help ) To me MegaSquirt is the android version of the fuel injection world. MegaSquirt is also insanely overpowered as fuel injection controllers go since it uses the same current hardware that you would find in laptops and notebooks. The LS PCM and thirdgen ECMs are using 20-30 year old hardware. With MegaSquirt you can also switch engines without worrying about sensor compatibility, multiples of the same sensor, ignition differences .
Even if you know nothing about tuning, you can just download someones MS run file and use the multiple setup wizards that will autotune startup, warmup, idle, cruise, safe spark settings, acceleration and deceleration. MS even has multiple Android tuning and gauge programs and is blutooth capable! You can set it up where you start your car and your phone automatically connects to the MegaSquirt and brings up the gauge display. So if you are out driving and you think the engine is having a "moment" you can just look at your phone- no need to keep a laptop in your car.
These are some shots of my tablet connected to the MegaSquirt
I absolutely love MegaSquirt, I am a fanboy. The only argument that can be made against the most current version of MegaSquirt is price.
You said pretty much what I've heard and read everywhere else except more in depth. Def like the flat screen setup you have there. Very cool.
That price tho..
Thanks a ton for the info!
Yeah, it definitely has a price tag. If you don't view the fuel injection controller as a toy or adventure in itself MegaSquirt may not serve you best.
I got the DC only 200. I looked for the AC/DC Inverter version for weeks but it was out of stock everywhere so I can't tig aluminum. I plan to upgrade when I do my cold side plumbing if not before.
I looked at the AC/DC version of their TIG for a while before deciding to buy the AHP version instead. Look into the AHP if you can't get the Eastwood.
I totally agree with Tibo's point on pump gas. All the guys I know that go e85 or race gas never street their cars like they say they would when they build them, even the Honda guys.
I totally agree with Tibo's point on pump gas. All the guys I know that go e85 or race gas never street their cars like they say they would when they build them, even the Honda guys.
I've thought about E85 but this will be a pump gas street car first and foremost. But... never say never.
Subframe connectors and cage going in. SFCs are from UMI. 10 point cage is a mild steel kit from Competition Engineering. I got my Kirkey seats but still waiting on the mounting brackets. I've gone as far as I can without the seat being mocked up. What I have is tacked in at multiple locations at each connection so I'm comfortable moving the car around. I'll fully weld when all bars are in place.
My steering column is complete junk. Thought it was just the typical "loose bolts" 80s GM columns are famous for but the bearings and basically all of the switches and internal components were broken or completely worn out. Thinking about going with a lightweight assy. from racecraft now.
Making good progress. When I did my cage I was afraid to do the halo, whenever I drive a car with a halo I feel like I need a helmet so I don't crack my skull in a small crash. I put a pad on my hoop and now I can hardly use my freggan rear view. Wish I took more pics while I was doing mine.
Making good progress. When I did my cage I was afraid to do the halo, whenever I drive a car with a halo I feel like I need a helmet so I don't crack my skull in a small crash. I put a pad on my hoop and now I can hardly use my freggan rear view. Wish I took more pics while I was doing mine.
Very true. Not bare skull friendly at all.
I got my seat brackets in so I hope to get a little more done soon after Christmas.
12-15-2016, 01:05 PM
. Any idea what you're going to do for turbos? A unit off of a 7.3 powerstroke or a cummins would do nicely I think. IIRC the powerstrokes are 66mm, and the ones from the 6.0's are the variable scroll. 
) To me MegaSquirt is the android version of the fuel injection world. MegaSquirt is also insanely overpowered as fuel injection controllers go since it uses the same current hardware that you would find in laptops and notebooks. The LS PCM and thirdgen ECMs are using 20-30 year old hardware. With MegaSquirt you can also switch engines without worrying about sensor compatibility, multiples of the same sensor, ignition differences 
.
