What caliper? No need to tap and thread any caliper holes...can you elaborate?

Ed

 

Not the caliper, the "caliper carrier" I saw a few pictures at the beginning of the thread with bolts bolted into the caliper carriers.

 

Ahhh...now I get it. Those holes are where the guide pins go. Besides the caliper carriers, you need the 4 guide pins and dust boots, and the 4 caliper to guide pin bolts.

Ed

 

Does some one have the part numbers for

guide pins
guide pin boots
banjo bolts
crush washer
caliper to abutment bolts
caliper carrier.

Thanks, Josh

Also before I bolt the stuff on my car, Which bolts should I use to prevent them from backing off like some users have had happen.

Would it be acceptable to use lock washers with the original bolts being used or use the ones that were recommended after the incident eith the caliper falling off.

 

For the harware, just go to the dealer for that stuff. I'd also use the OEM black-oxide coated caliper saddle bolts with locktight "red" to avoid any lost bolts. Do not use lock washers!

 

guide pins: don't have it on me;
guide pin boots: Seal kit from AZ: H5926;
banjo bolts: 10286122, C5 banjo bolt actually but it works;
crush washer: AZ will have them, no real P/N for those;
caliper to abutment bolts: Will come with the caliper;
caliper carrier: 18026163

I recommend using both Loctite and lockwashers, and safety wire if you can do that.

Also, most if not all of this info is in this thread on page one, it just takes a little reading...

Ed

 

Big kudos on the info you've amassed guys! I've decided to go with this set-up and have acquired most everything for the swap. I am looking at using the C5 caliper, mostly for the additional strength, and am wondering if anyone has tried using these with the C5 saddle?

Again, do not use lockwashers on brake calipers or their mounts. They tend to compress under load and vibration allowing bolts to loosen. No OEM brakes use lockwashers for this reason.
The bolts alone should provide all the clamping force you need and will do so unless you have uneven mounting surfaces, loose threads, or zinc-plated hardware (acts like a lubricant). Try using flanged hex-head bolts with either a cad or black oxide coating along with the Loctite. Safety wiring may be a bit of overkill but indulge yourself if you feel the need!

 

Big kudos on the info you've amassed guys! I've decided to go with this set-up and have acquired most everything for the swap. I am looking at using the C5 caliper, mostly for the additional strength, and am wondering if anyone has tried using these with the C5 saddle?

Again, do not use lockwashers on brake calipers or their mounts. They tend to compress under load and vibration allowing bolts to loosen. No OEM brakes use lockwashers for this reason.
The bolts alone should provide all the clamping force you need and will do so unless you have uneven mounting surfaces, loose threads, or zinc-plated hardware (acts like a lubricant). Try using flanged hex-head bolts with either a cad or black oxide coating along with the Loctite. Safety wiring may be a bit of overkill but indulge yourself if you feel the need!

 

I understand about using flange head bolts, it was talked about a few pages back when a caliper came loose on a member's setup. The issue I still have with the GM bolts is that they're too long to fit like I like them to so you'd have to cut them, no sense in that IMO so I stick with hex head bolts and Loctite.

You can use the C5 carrier but it will require a different bracket. I've thought about doing "interchange" kits, LS1 calipers with C5 abutments and vice versa but haven't sat down to figure it out. I'd prefer to use the C5 carrier since there's no bolt head clearance issues with it.

Murco..what hubs are those? Auminum anodized?

Ed

 

A good source for excellent nuts and bolts may be as close as your nearest Post Office that has a garage. They use Bowman fasteners (same as all Nascar teams) and you chat with the shop foreman he may give you a few!
I'm digging the C5 caliper's pressure casting and extra strenghth and I'll check the saddle on the LS1 set-up tomorrow (I have both on hand) to see if they are interchangable.
The hubs? Just like everyone elses here, just painted with Duplicolor "metal-cast" for the effect...

 

Try this sit for part numbers. I know it for the C-5 but most of it should cross over

http://82lt1.cz28.com/brakes/brakes.html

Might help out.

 

any of you have pics of your C-5 REAR install? does the bracket direct mount to the axle flanges? or do i need to modify?

 

Don't like to double post, but I feel this is important. I don't want anyone getting hurt using my brackes or anyone elses brackets.

 

One more interesting tid-bit for you conversion hounds!!
The calipers I got were loaded C5 parts from Car Quest (came with brackets, pads, and hardware) and if you noticed, they are black (Ok, grey). Interesting note about the color, if your calipers are bare aluminum, they are rebuilds. If they are dark grey like mine, they are NEW! Apparently, the reman companies can only get so many of the old units to rebuild and end up buying certain numbers of new ones for stocking purposes! So, I got complete caliper set-ups NEW for about $350.00! How cool is that!!

 

so, where's the store that you bought them located? Did you get caught when you tried to return the LS1 calipers for the core charge?

 

A C5 rear install will be just like a LS1 rear brake install with maybe a few changes to the e-brake setup. Just like this:

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...reardisc.shtml

Ed

 

Sarasota, Florida... But they had to order them from one of their hubs so anyone can access these. I didn't do anything shady, just returned the LS1 calipers I had previously bought.

 

are you saying you gave them LS1 calipers as core returns for the C5 calipers? I'm a little slow, just trying to understand. I guess you could argue that your vette had the LS1 calipers and they couldn't say anything unless they wanted to see the car

 

No, I didn't turn-in any core at all. I just returned the LS1 calipers I had previously bought and then purchased the C5 calipers...

 

I am missing the caliper bolts to one of my LS1 calipers. Does anyone know what the part number for caliper bolts are.

Thanks

Kevin

 

** Double Post**

 

Kevin, I'll send you a pair of caliper bolts with the other ones that will go out today, I have extras.

Ed

 

one more vote for the LS1 brakes, I did the front ls1 and the back I have a 9 bolt rear and I modified new brake plates so it would fit (thank you dremel) and let me tell you this thing will stop a digested white castle from exiting your ***

 

Finally back to this subject. Have been following since the beginning. But am now finally ready to get this done.

I remember something about someone using 1LE rotors as hubs for some reason instead of stock. I think it was ed.

Anyway, I have a pair of 1LE rotors new and thought I'd use them.

1. What is the advantage of using them over stock for hubs?

2. Do I still need the same longer wheel studs?

 

I'm running LS1 brakes at all corners with stainless braided lines, LS1 master cylinder, and a wilwood adjustable PV and I'd have to agree with your statement

 

Any more info on that hub? Cost? Will it work? I love my LS1 brakes but the thickness of the front hubs concern me. That one is alot "beefier". LMK, TIA!

 

Is it? I haven't tried this on a standard 3rd Gen hub, just the Blazer hub. I cut it down just like everyone else did with their hubs but I didn't think their was any difference in the hub thickness. I'll check tomorrow as I carry both rotors in my shop.

BTW - The ABS attempt is done, and not gonna happen. The ABS units that would theoretically work on our cars is too hard-wired into the rest of the car to make it practical. However, the sensor ring and sensor will make an excellent speed sensor for an Auto Meter speedometer!

 

Didnt some 3rd gens come with ABS from the factory? Could you just use parts from one of those?

 

Nope...no ABS on thirdgens.

There was a huge detailed discussion about this a while back. It can be done. I just read an article about a guy with a 70's vega who adapted ABS from a 98+ f-body. No articles about how he did it.


Its not impossible but its a challenge. GM used the same dust shields and rotors on early 90's blazers as they did for f-bods. But the rotors on the blazer have a 47 tooth ring on the backside for ABS. And the dust shields on my 91 have the provision on them for the blazer 's ABS sensor.

Id want to do it for the challenge but I think Id rather have an aftermarket 4-wheel traction control.

 

Spindle to caliper bracket. For a C5 or 6 caliper, and a LS1 rotor, how thick is this bracket. Is anyone worried about lateral stress? Someone suggested using a C5 rotor and trimming it so the C5 caliper would fit under a 16" iroc rim. This would be a better idea because it wouldn't be sticking out(or in so far)...

Thoughts.

 

Does anyone have an extra LS1 Caliper carrier? I would like to buy it.

 

Having purchased C5 brackets to upgrade my 4th Gen LS1 car to C5 quality stopping power, the FIRST thing they tell you is that you MUST have 17" wheels and even some (although very few) won't work........I would hesitate greatly on "trimming" a C5 caliper or bracket to make it work cuz stopping your 3400+ lbs of car, reliably, EVERYTIME, is WAAAAAAAY more important then having the est brakes around IMHO.

 

Is the part number - 18026163 - for the carriers 1 of them or both?

 

Yeah thats the part #. I just need one. Do you have one? How much shipped to 19020?

 

I was just curious if it was for one or both. Luckly the guy I found who was selling the brakes had them... I just picked them up about an hour ago...

Front and Rear off 2000 WS6 - Calipers, Caliper Carriers, Rotors, and Pads... plus he threw in a stock sway bar, LCA Relocation Brackets and a box of other bolts, misc brackets and stuff all for 200 bux. The Rotors look great, definetly usable, the pads have atleast 50% left on them and the calipers look great. Now I just need hubs for the front, and the backing plate/parking break for the rear and I will have complete LS1 brakes.

 

Just in case someone wants/needs Front Calipers, Caliper Carriers and Rotors...

Calipers, Caliper Carriers and Rotors off 2000 z28

3 hours left...

 

Yes...PM me if you still need one.

Ed

 

I need help with this problem. I upgraded to LS1 brakes on all 4 wheels. I have new Earl's braided lines. I installed and bleed everything but got a REALLY hard brake pedal with barely any stopping power. I mean I had to GET ON that thing to get the car to stop. I thought it might be a bad booster but it's holding 15-20 lbs (not sure on the number) of vacuum just fine and the engine is producing good vacuum as well. Could I possibly have a stuck caliper? How would I check for this? What other suggestions could you give me? Thanks.

 

BUMP. Any suggestions?

 

Well, since noone else has stabbed at this here goes. You have good vacuum, and the booster is holding the vacuum. is there anything that could be blocking the pedal (that pesky brick rolled under it again??)? Even if one caliper was locked up you should have decent stopping power and if it was a front caliper a really noticable pull. Could it be possible you have a blockage in the system. Possibly in the MC not allowing the pedal to travel?

Those new brake lines didn't have any "remove these plugs before use" tags on them did they? It almost sounds like the front brakes are not clamping for some reason. take them off and have someone SLOWLY press the brake pedal, see of the pistons move.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I have another master cylinder lying around somewhere from an TA. I'll try that and get back.

 

hope it works!!!

 

I tried changing both the master cylinder and the distribution block trying to make sure it was neither. Pedal travel improved slightly but I believe it was only due to not bleeding well. I believe I'm stuck with handling the calipers which I wanted to avoid since I don't have a lot of time on my hands. BTW, I did remove the plugs from the lines and there doesn't seem to be anything blocking the pedal. Thanks again for the help.

 

its late and i have a head ache from trying to read all 14 pages of this thread lol.


did anyone have any pics of the stock 3rd gen rotor turned down so that the ls1 rotor fits over it? cause that seems like a lot to remove. or did i read this wrong?

 

I believe that some people were turning down the hub, not the rotor. The old rotors get a trip to the recylcer's for scrap $$. I personnaly got the whole kit from ebmiller88. Very good to deal with, good price and good product!!

 

i read some more and it did seem like he was selling them. also was looking around after i posted and found this link http://www.metzcon.com/bigbrake/products2.htm but i'm still wondering what hub they are turning down to fit? the stock 3rd gen doesn't have a hub with the brake rotor on it like the ls1's. its all one piece.

unless the stock 4gen hub fits on the 3rd gen spindle but needs some part of it turned down.

i'm lost lol but prob just going to order from the link above anyways... thanks for the reply.

 

complete off the wall idea but i had a brake hose go bad on me and when i hit the brakes only one wheel would grab for a sec then the side with the bad hose would break free or something and the car would stop stright and normal. i narrowed it down to the hose and that fixed it. about 2 weeks later the other side went out and did the same thing.

so what I'm thinking may be happening, is if you were under there messing with the old lines, maybe they are bad inside and it takes more psi to over come the kink or whatever happens inside the line and then they open up...

i know, sounds crazy but its first thing that popped into my head as i read your post. so anyways, if you replaced your lines and don't have them kinked some where, my idea is just crazy lol.

 

The 4th gen hubs are different and will not fit. You take the stock 3rd gen brake rotor and cut off the rotor part (pad contact surface) leaving the center section where the studs are mounted. This in effect creates a 'hub'. The final diameter will need to be able to accept the 4th gen rotors.

 

ok,. yeah thats what i was thinking but i was thinking they turned down the part of the rotor that brakes grab too. that would take forever..lol


anyways. i like the idea of the update.. alot.

 

Ok i finally got all the pieces together but i made a mistake when i was reading one of Ed's messages to me and when i had the machine shop tap the spindles, i had them tap them with 1/2" thread ( not the metric threading).

Anyone know of any GM bolt part numbers in 1/2" or maybe a size i should be looking for? (i know most of my bolts on the car are metric)

Also, am i going to need any special bearings for this upgrade, or are the stock 3rd gen bearings sufficient?

Cant wait for some real brakes,
thanks!