No, I havn't checked them, I had no idea that they existed!! That makes perfect sense!! I checked all the fuses and they were good, then I checked to see if there was power going to the fuses, and there was NONE. Can you be a little more specific on where I can find that fuse? I have a manual, but its a HANES, biggest piece of $%@! on the market...

Could you expand on that a little more?

 

I had a chance to review the factory manual in more depth.
It says that even if the ECM is disconnected, the engine should still crank...yours doesn't, so while the ECM may be shot at the end of the day, that isn't your first problem.
The fusible links you are looking for are located down by the starter solenoid. (and attached to it I think, judging by the lousy GM diagram)

You will see wires attached to the solendoid that look like a normal wire. Follow them back for a few inches (like maybe 4-6 inches), and you will see what looks like a black round wire connector, then the wire carries on from there.

The whole length of wire from the solenoid to and including the black cylinderical thing is the fusible link. You could go to any good auto store to see what they look like as a replacement.
They are rated by wire size...the replacement size you would need is 1 mm.

You can use a multimeter or circuit tester to check for continuity on each side of the link...it'll mean exposing the bare wire past the black piece so you can get contact...probe from where the wire connects to the solenoid to a point past the cylinder.

Sometimes when they blow, they result in a big bulge in the wire...if you see this, you don't need to probe...just replace it.

REMEMBER TO DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE YOU TRY TO REPLACE IT (unless you want a new hair style and want to replace your ECM anyway... )

 

Cool, thanks, I'll have to check that when I get home from work today. I just went out there a few minutes ago in an attempt to find fuses that are near my battery and all I came up with is one that is right next to the batter (screwed into the bay wall) and it was still good. Couldn't tell you what it goes to, disapears into the car somewhere. I just hope I can fit under my car! :hail:

P.S. = To all of you that are helping me out with this, you have no idea how much I apreciate it. As much as they are to you, my car is my life, and it feals like my first born was taken from me! When she comes back to life I'm going to dedicate a memorial TOP-SPEED lap around the block to you guys!!

 

You might want to invest a few bucks in some ramps...I found them to be a life saver.
Just make sure you get extensions so you can clear the low groundFX.

Also, note that a fusible link looks different from an in-line fuse. The inline fuse unscrews or unclips to show a fuse like you would find in the back of your home stereo. The fusible link just has wire and a hard cylindrical plastic piece that doesn't come apart.

Again, I would concentrate on the links at the solenoid. According to the wiring diagram, those are the ones you are after. The link by the battery goes to your cooling fan relay, and the fuse by your battery is for your ECM and fuel pump.

Al

 

I've got the ramps, lol, the only problem is getting my 3300lbs of car up on them from the parking space its in without turning it on

Alright cool, didn't have a chance to take a look at them today, got off of work and went strait to the golf course, but I may go out there tonight. Easier to do it at night anyways, given I live in the ice-cold state or Arizona...lol....

 

A floor jack and jackstands are a cheap solution.
Shouldn't cost more than $25-50 for a set.

 

Very true, but unfortunalty that means having $25-$50, gah this thing couldn't have broken down at a better time....right in the middle of my training class for my new job that I had to drive 20 min. to get to the training center...

 

It sounds like either you have a ground problem, or its your vats. The Vats does things exactly what you are saying.

 

Ok, Vats, that could help.........what is it?.............

 

Acually really OT but 305 RS's ship @ 3143lbs so its lighter then u think

Im kinda having the same problem but not as bad. My hatch/horn/locks/cigg lighter dont work and im hoping its the fuses.

IMHO i agree with HeavyBreathinRS with the fusible links and not having a solid or any connection to your fuse box. If the fuses and batt work thats the only thing connecting them both. Thats my .02

SSBO

 

Vehicle Anti-Theft System. I don't see how that could be causing all of his problems though?? My guess would be that there would have to be a problem like a broken wire from his battery. He should at least be able to turn on his lights or have something working that uses the electrical system. Plus there's nothing when he turns the key. Check all your wires and what not. It could be something as simple as that. Sometimes the hardest problems have the simplest solutions.

 

Yes, true, but thats to complete stock specs, they didn't calculate a college student that lives half out of his car and has a couple hundered pounds of sound system :lala:

I FIGURED OUT WHAT THE PROBLEM IS!!!
For all of you that answered Fuseable Links, you were absolutley correct!! (HeavyBreathinRS) I went under my car and found that the wires for them were COMPLETELY corrupted. One of the wires had come totally apart, making no connection what-so-ever. My...uhh...slightly....faster than normal 'U' turn...must have been the final push. I went all out and got some major stuff to re-wire it, and I must say I did quite the great job! After I got done, I got in my car, and YEAH!! Everything was working again. I put my key in the ignition, made the buzzing noise, all my guages came to life, then I turned the key to start it. And in a glorious display, all I saw was.........smoke............I underguaged the main wire. Go figure. I fried it to no tmo. I decided though, I'm going to have it professionally done. Ya know, just in case that isn't the only problem. I REALLY apreciate all the help you guys have given me though. It's been huge!

Bruce (90RS305)

 

I'm glad we could be of some help.
I've been helped out many times already by the great people on these boards.
Let us know how it all ends up.



Al

 

I figured thats what it was, yeah most of the time if HeavyBreathinRS says something he knows whats up Im glad your got your baby back up man, i know how it feels when you cant drive it or it doesnt run, its like a part of you just dies. But anyways happy driven

SSBO

 

Whats even worse is when your bumming rides off of all your friends/coworkers and when they come to pick you up there's your car on blocks. She isn't up quite yet. That comes with my next paycheck. I should have her back no later than July 28th. Then I'm going on a roadtrip to make up for lost miles!

Bruce (90RS305)

 

Well, I know it's been a while scince I updated this, but my car is now running again (has been for a lil' while now) and I thought I may just let you all in on something. Funny thing is, it applies to this thread more than I wished it would. As for what happened to my car, it actually WASN'T my fuseable links. Sure they went out, but just in the interest of saving the rest of my car.

Now note this: On the STOCK TBI intake, the back of the round part has a dip in it which allows for wireing and other misc. things behind it to have room. This I did not notice. When I put the new open element crome piece on, I evidently crushed two wires together. Now nothing happened for a few months, because it took that long for the wires to rub together and strip away the shielding. once they finally were exposed, they touched the chrome and grounded out. Consequently, I have re-installed my stock air cleaner. Untill I can figure out what to do about re-locating the wires, I'm SOL on using my open element. I have pics of the wires, but I have been unable to reaquire the camera they are on. I'll post them as soon as I can get ahold of them.

In other words...BE CAREFUL WHEN INSTALLING AN OPEN ELEMENT AIR CLEANER!!!

Bruce (90RS305)

 

Well, I figure instead of starting a whole new thread on it, I'll just bring this one back to life...

I HAVE MY OPEN ELEMENT BACK ON!! And ya know what made it possible? The very expense, very hard to find, Electrical Tape! All I did was put a lil' extra insulation on the wires that came near the back/bottom of the open element and put a good couple of layers on the actual bottom of the open element. And ya know what? Works great! Especially scince it's cooling down now and I'm getting colder air in my engine bay... A simple (and cheap) way to avoid any major problems with your car. Gah, wish I would have thought of that a long time ago...

Bruce (90RS305)

 

So how does this open element effect emmissions? This would be assuming the PCV filter and the IAT are installed in the new open element.

 

It shouldnt at all, just increased air flow...

 

Congrats man on getting the car running again.. Just sucks it took ya this long to get it going

AS for getting some clearance to make sure it doesnt happend again. You can reinstall the gold ring to raise the air cleaner up some or put a dimple in the base.

Kat

 

I have a raised cleaner (flat-base) that fits nicely under my cowl hood.

Do not trust the electrical tape, no matter how many layers, it melts eventually (don't underestimate the underhood head), after which you might (re)create all your problems.

Otherwise, use a 14x2 or some other funky size, but don't squish those wires

 

It actually didn't take me too long to get it to work again (about a month) I just now got my open element back on

As for the electrical tape, I did a lot of thinking before I did it and where the tape is exactly doesn't get as hot as some of the other places, but most of all it's just a temp. fix for the winter. As soon as it starts to get warmer outside again I'm going to relocate the wires. Right now that is just too much of a hassle, I have bigger things to worry about (like a leaking differential!). But yeah, I see what ya mean about not trusting it.

Bruce (90RS305)

 

Anyone know if you will fail a visual smog test with an open element? I just moved to Arizona and need to register the 'bird here. I don't want to have to put the old air cleaner backon, mainly because I don't know where the heck it is...

Anyway, here is the car...needs paint, I know...

Picked it up for $600 last year. It needed a water pump, heater core, power window, and a new fender. Since, I've replaced the carpet, installed Eibach sportline springs, KYBs, and have tuned up and generally cleaned the thing (working at Summit definitely helped keep costs down!). It has 110K on it and runs great. I drove it down to Phoenix when I moved from Reno, and the 305 managed 29 mpg! Probably with help from the lame 2.73 gears, which I will soon ditch for some 3.42s. Time for paint and definitely window tint down here...