How hard is it to replace my front disc brake pads?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Buda, TX
How hard is it to replace my front disc brake pads?
Same deal as the tranny mount question. Easy fix, done it many times myself. Would need to check with my shop manual for the exact procedure again.
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Dana M. Brandt
1992 Camaro RS
25th Anniversary Heritage package
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Dana M. Brandt
1992 Camaro RS
25th Anniversary Heritage package
TGO Founder/Former Owner
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, AZ USA
Car: 1992 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5
I say you write it up and we can just make a tech article about it. Link to it from the FAQ 
Are all front disc setups the same (ex. 1LE?).
Are all front disc setups the same (ex. 1LE?).
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Buda, TX
Can (and will) do. Don't know if all setups are the same (ex. 1LE) but I'll include whatever info my shop manual shows.
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Dana M. Brandt
1992 Camaro RS
25th Anniversary Heritage package
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Dana M. Brandt
1992 Camaro RS
25th Anniversary Heritage package
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,950
Likes: 26
From: Orange, SoCal
Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
All 82-92 thirdgen f-bodies have the same front disc brakes (except 1LE's of course) The part number is usually 154, or some variant of 154. 82-88 disc brakes also use part# 154. 89-92 disc brakes use the same rear brakes as 4th gens, part# 413 I believe.
I have the disc brake pad changing instructions copied from my Helms manual, but I dunno if you can post it w/o copyright issues.
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1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed
13.32 @ 105.27 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
Webmaster: ICON Motorsports
I have the disc brake pad changing instructions copied from my Helms manual, but I dunno if you can post it w/o copyright issues.
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1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed
13.32 @ 105.27 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
Webmaster: ICON Motorsports
Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati, Ohio 45215
how about "it's so easy superblue could do it!"
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1987 Formula 350, Accel supercoil, cap, rotor. MAF screens removed. 160 degree stat and manual fan switch.
Custom dual 15 install by me and my dad
best ET: 14.745@91.317mph w/ sub boxes removed
"I want to show people other areas of myself that they may not be familiar with" -Christina Aguilera
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1987 Formula 350, Accel supercoil, cap, rotor. MAF screens removed. 160 degree stat and manual fan switch.
Custom dual 15 install by me and my dad
best ET: 14.745@91.317mph w/ sub boxes removed
"I want to show people other areas of myself that they may not be familiar with" -Christina Aguilera
Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati, Ohio 45215
originally posted by me, on the tech board:
Okay it's really easy. I'll give you a quick step by step.
1. Remove wheel (duh )
2. Remove caliper bolts, take off caliper. The caliper bolts are 3/8" allen bolts.
3. Take lid off brake fluid reservoir, use c-clamp and old pad to push the caliper back in flush.
4. Take a screw driver and pop the dust cap off the end of the rotor.
5. Remove cotter pin from castle nut, unscrew castle nut.
6. Remove bearing shield/washer thing then remove the bearing, clean the bearings and put them aside.
7. Put the castle nut back on the spindle, grab the rotor and pull straight out, this should pop out the rear bearing. Clean this bearing and put it aside, pitch the bearing seal.
8. Go to store get new pads, rotors, and rear bearing seals, get bearing grease if you need it.
9. Re-pack rear bearings, but them into the back of the rotors and use a soft hammer to hammer the seals in flush
10. Grease spindle, but rotors back on
11. Pack front bearing and put it back in, then the shield/washer for it
12. Put castle nut back on with new cotter pin, put dust cap back on with a hammer if necessary
13. Put new brake pads in caliper, put caliper back on the car
14. Fill brake fluid and put cap back on.
15. Bleed brakes (may not need to but it can't hurt)
16. Refill reservoir
17. Put wheels back on and go for a drive. (it may be a good idea to check your e-brake before hand)
Okay it's really easy. I'll give you a quick step by step.
1. Remove wheel (duh
)2. Remove caliper bolts, take off caliper. The caliper bolts are 3/8" allen bolts.
3. Take lid off brake fluid reservoir, use c-clamp and old pad to push the caliper back in flush.
4. Take a screw driver and pop the dust cap off the end of the rotor.
5. Remove cotter pin from castle nut, unscrew castle nut.
6. Remove bearing shield/washer thing then remove the bearing, clean the bearings and put them aside.
7. Put the castle nut back on the spindle, grab the rotor and pull straight out, this should pop out the rear bearing. Clean this bearing and put it aside, pitch the bearing seal.
8. Go to store get new pads, rotors, and rear bearing seals, get bearing grease if you need it.
9. Re-pack rear bearings, but them into the back of the rotors and use a soft hammer to hammer the seals in flush
10. Grease spindle, but rotors back on
11. Pack front bearing and put it back in, then the shield/washer for it
12. Put castle nut back on with new cotter pin, put dust cap back on with a hammer if necessary
13. Put new brake pads in caliper, put caliper back on the car
14. Fill brake fluid and put cap back on.
15. Bleed brakes (may not need to but it can't hurt)
16. Refill reservoir
17. Put wheels back on and go for a drive. (it may be a good idea to check your e-brake before hand)
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