What's more important, rarity or getting exactly what you want?
Thread Starter
2011 Norwood Gathering
ThirdGen Firebird Rep
ThirdGen Firebird Rep
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,435
Likes: 4
From: Sarasota FL
Car: 99 WS6 / 00 SS / 11 CTS-V / 13 300
Engine: LS1 / LS1 / LSA / 5.7 Hemi
Transmission: 4L60E / T-56 / 6L80E / W5A80
Axle/Gears: 3.23 / 3.42 Auburn / 3.23 / 2.62
What's more important, rarity or getting exactly what you want?
This discussion, for me anyways, surrounds a 4th gen, not a 3rd, but I think this could be rather interesting...
Those of you out there with B4C's, 1LE's, convertibles, even normal TPI IROCs/GTAs/T/As/Formulas, what factors made you buy?? Did you buy because you thought it was rare or because it was exactly what you were looking for? (Obviously my third gen does not qualify for either one
)
BTW, the reason I started thinking of this is because of my dad...he wants to order a new Z28. However, I just placed an order yesterday with SLP for a Formula Firehawk (not for me, for work). Its navy blue, chrome wheels, 6 speed etc. This is the exact color and options he wants, but he claims not to want a Pontiac. I just found out when I placed the order that only THIRTY NINE Formula Hawks were made last year...so far this year my Formie will be NUMBER THREE made...
He wants a Z, I say for 5,000 more he should get a Hawk...hence why I started thinking of this topic...
Opinions??
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Jason E
'89 Camaro RS
-Medium Grey Metallic
-2.8, A4, T-tops, 94k miles
-Hypertech chip, Accel wires/coil/K&Ns
-Alpine 60x4 and Bostons
'97 Z28
-30th Anniversary package (white with orange stripes)
-LT1, M6, t-tops, 45k miles
-Eclipse CD and 10" Aluminum sub in JL Audio Stealth box, Boston RM speakers, Xtant 403a amp
Speed Kills...Wanna live forever? Drive a Ford.
Long Live #3...
Those of you out there with B4C's, 1LE's, convertibles, even normal TPI IROCs/GTAs/T/As/Formulas, what factors made you buy?? Did you buy because you thought it was rare or because it was exactly what you were looking for? (Obviously my third gen does not qualify for either one
)BTW, the reason I started thinking of this is because of my dad...he wants to order a new Z28. However, I just placed an order yesterday with SLP for a Formula Firehawk (not for me, for work). Its navy blue, chrome wheels, 6 speed etc. This is the exact color and options he wants, but he claims not to want a Pontiac. I just found out when I placed the order that only THIRTY NINE Formula Hawks were made last year...so far this year my Formie will be NUMBER THREE made...
He wants a Z, I say for 5,000 more he should get a Hawk...hence why I started thinking of this topic...
Opinions??
------------------
Jason E
'89 Camaro RS
-Medium Grey Metallic
-2.8, A4, T-tops, 94k miles
-Hypertech chip, Accel wires/coil/K&Ns
-Alpine 60x4 and Bostons
'97 Z28
-30th Anniversary package (white with orange stripes)
-LT1, M6, t-tops, 45k miles
-Eclipse CD and 10" Aluminum sub in JL Audio Stealth box, Boston RM speakers, Xtant 403a amp
Speed Kills...Wanna live forever? Drive a Ford.
Long Live #3...
This is a very good question that, over the years of owning muscle cars, I have struggled with many times.
I think it really comes down to WHAT you (or your dad) wants to do with the car.
If they truely want to buy one for the enjoyment of driving/ownership and want to keep the car indefinately, then he should buy the car they really wants.
On the other hand, if they want to buy a car for an investment (cars unfortuantly give too little return over too long a period) or to present a rare trophy at car shows, then they MIGHT want to buy the rare car (if they think they would still enjoy owning it)
IMHO, I think people should buy the car they really want, then make their investments in the markets if they want to make money.
------------------
1978 Y-88 TA (WS6, P6.6, T-Tops)
1993 Black 454SS
1989 Black IROC (TPI, T-Tops, LB9, 5-speed)
I think it really comes down to WHAT you (or your dad) wants to do with the car.
If they truely want to buy one for the enjoyment of driving/ownership and want to keep the car indefinately, then he should buy the car they really wants.
On the other hand, if they want to buy a car for an investment (cars unfortuantly give too little return over too long a period) or to present a rare trophy at car shows, then they MIGHT want to buy the rare car (if they think they would still enjoy owning it)
IMHO, I think people should buy the car they really want, then make their investments in the markets if they want to make money.
------------------
1978 Y-88 TA (WS6, P6.6, T-Tops)
1993 Black 454SS
1989 Black IROC (TPI, T-Tops, LB9, 5-speed)
If he wants something that will be worth money but wats a Z get a SS with every slp option and all 1LE options he can get. They only make like 24 a year now tops maybe less. So if you get one of those get exactly what you want and everything you can get. Hope you get what you like.
------------------
************************
91 z-28 305 700R4
3.73 gears out back
T-Tops and Black all over.
------------------
************************
91 z-28 305 700R4
3.73 gears out back
T-Tops and Black all over.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
It depends on (a) what you want, and (b) what you plan to do with it, and (c) how much risk/reward ratio you are willing to take on...
If you plan to drive it, get what you want. Of course what you want may be the rarest and/or most desirable model, but if you want it and are willing to pay for it, then go for it.
If you don't plan on driving it, and are willing to buy it and put it in interior storage somewhere prepared in such a way as not to deteriorate, then get the rarest or most desirable for its own sake. Be prepared to wait for a period of decades for the car to possibly retain some significant portion of its original value, in numerical dollars.
I don't think there's any car, realistically, that can be said to be worth more than it was originally. To take the often-quoted '57 Chevy example, if you took the same $3000 or whatever it would have taken to buy a FI 283 Bel Air and bought a mutual fund with it in 1957, it would now be worth several times as much as the car would now be worth. In other words, you would have lost money on the car. And it goes down from there. Nobody knew in 57 that those cars would come to symbolize the times, so whatever you do, it's a crap shoot.
Cars are a very poor investment. I would consider them as an even poorer grade of investment than lottery tickets, which as we all know (don't we?) are an alternative voluntary tax on people who didn't do well in elementary school arithmetic.
A car is an expense. Anyone who regards one as an investment is deluding himself. They're no different from any other "collectible" in that regard; ask any professional in that field about "investing" in collectibles, and when he has finished trying to sell you his own collection at a profit by telling you "what it's worth", you will realize what the problems are.
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
If you plan to drive it, get what you want. Of course what you want may be the rarest and/or most desirable model, but if you want it and are willing to pay for it, then go for it.
If you don't plan on driving it, and are willing to buy it and put it in interior storage somewhere prepared in such a way as not to deteriorate, then get the rarest or most desirable for its own sake. Be prepared to wait for a period of decades for the car to possibly retain some significant portion of its original value, in numerical dollars.
I don't think there's any car, realistically, that can be said to be worth more than it was originally. To take the often-quoted '57 Chevy example, if you took the same $3000 or whatever it would have taken to buy a FI 283 Bel Air and bought a mutual fund with it in 1957, it would now be worth several times as much as the car would now be worth. In other words, you would have lost money on the car. And it goes down from there. Nobody knew in 57 that those cars would come to symbolize the times, so whatever you do, it's a crap shoot.
Cars are a very poor investment. I would consider them as an even poorer grade of investment than lottery tickets, which as we all know (don't we?) are an alternative voluntary tax on people who didn't do well in elementary school arithmetic.
A car is an expense. Anyone who regards one as an investment is deluding himself. They're no different from any other "collectible" in that regard; ask any professional in that field about "investing" in collectibles, and when he has finished trying to sell you his own collection at a profit by telling you "what it's worth", you will realize what the problems are.
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
Get it because you want it and if you buy it new option it the way you want it. I bought my car because it was exactly what I was looking for, took me quite some time to find it too. If you buy a car new then you should option it just the way you want it. BTW, why would you order a Formula Firehawk when you can get a Trans Am Firehawk? Oh well, I guess it comes down to what they wanted.....
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www.TransAmGTA.com THE 3rdgen Firebird Site!
1992 GTA (226 made), 1 of only 18 "Dark Jade Gray Metallic" 92 GTA's, My Window Sticker, Original "SLP/GM Performance Parts Kit" equipped GTA, LB9, 4L60, T-Tops, Grey Leather, and EVERY available option except U1A.
Current Mods/Upgrades: 80 Series Dual Outlet Flowmaster, TPIS Air Foil, K&N Air Filter, and Mobil 1.
Future Mods/Upgrades: None but a complete restoration.
Best Track Time: 14.6sec@96.6mph
"If it ain't broke, fix it til it is!"
Webmaster www.TransAmGTA.com
My 3rdGen Firebird Message Board!
------------------
www.TransAmGTA.com THE 3rdgen Firebird Site!
1992 GTA (226 made), 1 of only 18 "Dark Jade Gray Metallic" 92 GTA's, My Window Sticker, Original "SLP/GM Performance Parts Kit" equipped GTA, LB9, 4L60, T-Tops, Grey Leather, and EVERY available option except U1A.
Current Mods/Upgrades: 80 Series Dual Outlet Flowmaster, TPIS Air Foil, K&N Air Filter, and Mobil 1.
Future Mods/Upgrades: None but a complete restoration.
Best Track Time: 14.6sec@96.6mph
"If it ain't broke, fix it til it is!"
Webmaster www.TransAmGTA.com
My 3rdGen Firebird Message Board!
Thread Starter
2011 Norwood Gathering
ThirdGen Firebird Rep
ThirdGen Firebird Rep
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,435
Likes: 4
From: Sarasota FL
Car: 99 WS6 / 00 SS / 11 CTS-V / 13 300
Engine: LS1 / LS1 / LSA / 5.7 Hemi
Transmission: 4L60E / T-56 / 6L80E / W5A80
Axle/Gears: 3.23 / 3.42 Auburn / 3.23 / 2.62
Everyone has brought up good points...right now he agreed to come see it when it comes in, but I think he'll still buy the Z.
As for why I would order a Formula Hawk over a T/A Hawk...here's why:
1) I have a silver T/A Hawk on order anyways
2) Price: With a full list of $32,000 flat with the optional chrome wheels, it is $300 LESS than a WS6 T/A I have coming in with the same options! Most people tend to think Hawks cost too much...this one proved to be the contrary. But for the same price, which yould you rather have??
3) Rarity: I knew even before reading the SLP sheets that this would be a very rare Bird...
4) Not everyone wants leather!! Leather is mandatory on a T/A, but isn't available when you order a WU6 Formula
5) It is the most powerful, fastest 4th gen ever made (maybe the fastest Bird period??), with 345HP on tap in the Formula body shell.
6) Its just plain different
And on the showroom floor, a $32k Formula Hawk in navy will compliment a $36,800 silver T/A Hawk (I went wild on this one
Auburn diff, optional spoiler, Bilstein, everything!!) very nicely
I ordered a far more traditional Hawk for my 1st '02...a black T/A with Bilstein, chromes, mats etc...I sold it 5 hours off the truck
I know this is 4th gen...just thought I'd let 92GTA know why I ordered a Formula Hawk....any other thoughts?
[This message has been edited by Jason E (edited October 22, 2001).]
As for why I would order a Formula Hawk over a T/A Hawk...here's why:
1) I have a silver T/A Hawk on order anyways

2) Price: With a full list of $32,000 flat with the optional chrome wheels, it is $300 LESS than a WS6 T/A I have coming in with the same options! Most people tend to think Hawks cost too much...this one proved to be the contrary. But for the same price, which yould you rather have??
3) Rarity: I knew even before reading the SLP sheets that this would be a very rare Bird...
4) Not everyone wants leather!! Leather is mandatory on a T/A, but isn't available when you order a WU6 Formula
5) It is the most powerful, fastest 4th gen ever made (maybe the fastest Bird period??), with 345HP on tap in the Formula body shell.
6) Its just plain different
And on the showroom floor, a $32k Formula Hawk in navy will compliment a $36,800 silver T/A Hawk (I went wild on this one
Auburn diff, optional spoiler, Bilstein, everything!!) very nicelyI ordered a far more traditional Hawk for my 1st '02...a black T/A with Bilstein, chromes, mats etc...I sold it 5 hours off the truck

I know this is 4th gen...just thought I'd let 92GTA know why I ordered a Formula Hawk....any other thoughts?
[This message has been edited by Jason E (edited October 22, 2001).]
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