http://cleveland.craigslist.org/car/320094733.html

do oyu think it owuld be worth it becuase im 17 and how much do you think my insurance would cost? im going to figure out tomorrow when i call them.

also i drive a 1994 dodge caravan that gets not so great fuel economy.

if i get 16-15 miles per gallon city in this camaro i would love it.

its got a 305 and its an automatic but i dont know if it the high output 305 or the regular/ low output.

 

better find out whats wrong with it, "still needs some work". im gonna doubt that it has 68k...most likely 168k. if it doesnt have rust, then anything else can be replaced if it doesnt work. if i was buying a car i wanted to keep for a long time, i would rather have a rust free car with a bunch of mechanical problems than a rusty car in good mechanical shape

 

hmm, i paid 1k for my 82, rebuilt motor with probably about 50k miles on it along with a rebuilt 4 speed, 1100 bucks looks like a good deal, but definitely check for rust and underbody stuff, i had a friend who bought a camaro and turned out that the body was being held together with a leaf spring from a truck...

 

wow thanks guys, he said the head liner needs replaced wich he has one. he also said there is a key broke off in a door. and finally the passenger side mirror needs the glass wich he has.

i will climb up under the car and look for cracks in the frame. also i will check the miles on the car by the odometer.

anything else i should look for? liek open the trunk and see if there is sings of it being in a wrek.

 

Remember you are buying a 20 year old car and it is going to break down. Also parts will be expensive and to save money you will have to work on yourself. Also, if you are worried about gas milage buy a 4 cylinder. Last, no matter what they say, noone sells a car for 1000.00 that has no major issues.

 

Check anything and everything. If the car runs and drives great thats a steal. 68k miles is hard to believe but anything is possible. I like the 82-84 z28s too.

 

yeah i can work on cars and such to an extent. he says it drives. i will check the frame to see if its broke and all that. ill make sure it doesnt blow black smoke. take it for a test drive and such. make sure it shifts smoothly.


can u guys give me a list of questions to ask the guy.

 

I bought an '84 firebird back in 2001 and it never broke down on me... and these parts are as cheap as it gets, you're not going to find a cheaper car to repair for $1000. I'd bet that there's some good wear to the interior, that it is missing clear coat in some places, minor rust and that it might actually be at 168k (there's only 5 digits on the odometer). If it runs and he can prove that the car has 68k original miles and it doesn't have significant rust or leaks, then it's worth buying. There is a possibility of it being an HO 305 since it's a Z/28, but probablity dictates that it's a regular LG4 305.

 

yeah thanks dude, i was checking parts at outozone and they werent expensive. if i had the vin number is anyone here capable of running it on carfax or sumthing that would be great. if i knew the vin i could see if its an high output engine or not also.

 

hmm, well the only thing that was bad about it is that the windshield was cracked, which i had one from a donor car that was practically brand new so that was no problem, other than that everything else was fine, plus i got myself a nice hurst shifter lol

 

guy has stuff to do today so im going tomorrow.

is there a way i can tell like where is the serial number or w/e for the engine

basically how would i know if it is stock engine or a swap, can i match vin to vin or what?

 

Well, you can be almost guaranteed that if there was an engine swap, it was an upgrade, you can't get much worse power-wise than a stock '84 LG4 (for a V8)... if it's an HO, I don't think many people would swap that out just on account of it's semi-rarity. Probably a worst case scenario would be that somebody swapped in a 350 along the way. If the miles are actual then it's unlikely anybody touched the engine.

There's should be an RPO sheet on the lid of the center console, that would be the easiest way to figure out what engine it has, just match the RPO sheet's vin to the vin on the dash to confirm it's the right one and then look for "LG4" or "L69" in the list of codes, it's in alphabetical order. If you write down the RPO's you can plug that into a decoder to figure out what list of features came equipped on the car... gearing, wheels etc.

 

thank you for your help and everyone here in this community. i am glad to be apart of. my insurance is only going to go up 14 dollars a year!!!! (i am 17)

if and when i get this car i will post pictures.

 

yeah the older ones wont be that expensive to insure. now you can stick a 383 in there with a supercharger and pay the same amount in insurance!

 

Gas would kill me

 

looks like you need to get a job gas isnt that bad!

 

Well from just looking at the picture it looks like someone tried to give it a modernized appearance. The wheels should be grey or gold with black centers, the GFX should be silver or gold, and the headlight buckets should be black. Someone probably did a cheap repaint, it's cheaper to go monochrome then to do all the accents properly. Also I'd question the authenticity of the interior. Those seats were available but pretty uncommon on the Z28 since most got the upgraded interior. Notice also the door panels seem to be punched for hand cranks. 84 wouldn't have been punched unless someone added the power windows after the fact. The base model seats tended to wear better and are easier to find in the salvage yards. Also the 5 digit odometer makes it more likely that it's closer to 168,000 or 268,000. I'd expect a 68,000 mile car to have original paint, original interior, etc.

The buy in price isn't too bad, but if the transmission goes out, it'll cost you $1,000 to have a 700R4 rebuilt. Figure about the same investment if the engine developes a rod knock. You can just about bet on needing to replace the exhaust, suspension, fix electrical issues, power windows will probably need attention, power locks may stick or not work at all. The original LG4 or L69 is a better engine than most give credit. If someone's pulled the 305 and installed a 350 out of a late 70's anything, it's probably slower and less efficient. Most of the small parts are cheap, but correct body and interior parts are in short supply.

Most of the things I'd suggest to look for won't be obvious unless you've looked at a couple untouched cars. I'd avoid anything that has had an engine swap, since most of the time swaps are done to fix a car to turn it. Most of the time they aren't done right and can lead to headaches. If you're just looking for a driver, and you don't mind working on the car, potentially going weeks without the car because you're searching for parts, waiting on a machine shop, or waiting on someone to ship you parts, then jump right in. But don't expect to get a new car for $1,000. Also, the gas mileage will vary depending on how you drive it. If a late model fuel injected Dodge is getting poor mileage you're going to be pissed at that 4bbl. If you drive it hard in stop and go traffic 10mpg is possible, if it's in optimal tune and mechanical condition they can pull upper 20's on the highway.

 

I bought this camaro from e-bay on Aug 14th 2006 for 1,300. I planned on restoring the whole car. When I got it I Had to have the rear drums fixed. The wheel cylinders were bad and so was the e-brake. I then Decided to redo the interior since it was tan and ugly. I put in a very nice black and grey interior I found through a friend. Everything inside got replaced . And thats about as far as I got. The car is nice, I love to drive it. Wife says it has to go if I want new Durango. I got the Durango so here is my ad.

Known problems :
I cant get the windshield wipers to go. I can make them move about3 inches.
Doors need new locks. ( saw them on e-bay for $30.00)
Ceiling needs put back in
Needs a new paintjob and minor body work, I was just going to have it painted.
Thats really all the problems I know of.

Car always fires right up. Fun to drive. Is an easy project for a begginer. Car is solid, not rusted like so many others.


how should i adress the 165,000 or 265,000 miles issue or who knows maybe all it has is 68,000

anyone here able to get a carfax when i get the vin number?

should i offer hium 400 dollars if he cant prove to me this stuff.

also is there any free vin number checkros i know crafax charges, anyone here have a carfax membership that thye can run the vin on? thanks.

windshiled wipers are binding or may need a new motor.

 

Local policy on this forum has always been that Carfax is a licensed service. If you want the VIN checked, pay their fee. Every once in a while they run a free promo, or someone will buy a 30 day license and offer to run vins. It's basically piracy and isn't allowed.

If the car starts runs and drives it's worth the asking price. Offering $400 would be an insult. I wouldn't even worry about the mileage and modifications, because they're going to be there anytime you're dealing with a cheap car.

 

yeah if the body is ncie shape and the frame isnt cracked then its all good. but he states that its 68,000 orginal miles and lying about your odometer is breaking the law big time.

 

Typically the government doesn't really care if a car has the correct mileage reported on cars over 10 years old, to report that it's got 68000 or 168000 is just between buyers... there is no way to tell if the odometer has rolled over before and only stringent documentation can prove a low mile car. If it looks good on the underside and fairly clean in the engine compartment I'd say it's likely to be a low mile car. There's no reason to automatically assume that the odometer has rolled over. Condition of the car is more important than miles unless you're planning to do a "frame off" acid dipping restoration.

 

the dude took the camaro out for a spin since he is getting rid of it, drove it a little rough and cracked a sway bar. he is having a shop replace it then tomorrow it is supposed to be done and i will go check it out then if i like ill buy on friday or maybe thursday.

sounds good.

he told me he rather have it cracked on him then me since i will be just buying the car.

 

i'd definately check the vin, that looks like an rs. also is it a 5 0r 6 digit odometer. thats partially the reason i bought my 5.0 rs instead of a z28 with "35,000" miles. it was also repainted and had a skin on the drivers 1/4. be very observant and look for all the flaws. hope u like it!

 

whewn i see the car tomorrow i will write the vin down and do a carfax report i guess.

but i wish i oculd save the 25 dollars

 

wow..how do you crack a swaybar

 

Chances are an end link let go, but it's pretty unlikely he'd notice right away.

As mentioned, over 10 years old and most of the time the mileage is exempt anyway. He probably has no idea how many miles are on the car. It shouldn't matter since a car can be trashed in short order, or meticulously maintained and babied for the long haul.

Everything I see in the picture is consistent with a repainted Z28. The RS wasn't available until later, and had different GFX moldings.

FWIW

 

you can say that again.....you should see the 4500 mile Z06 we have at Penske Chevrolet for the flywheel/clutch recall. beat on and dirty as hell...how could someone do that to a brand new Z06

 

the floor board was almost rusted through, the hillbilly gutted out all emission control and the smog pump was mia.

the air filter housing was aftermarket and the air filter was so dirty wow i have never seen something so dirty.

what did it for me was a chrome aftermarket oil filter dipstick that barely fit inside the tube.

oil was pretty chunky and the dude came out and said i dont remember chaning my oil.

didnt see a catalitic converter and i turned the car down.

looking into getting an 89 camaro with a v8. dont know too much details but yeah.

 

Yep, sounds about average. Most of that stuff is pretty common.

 

That's talent.

Spend the $25.0 for the Carfax. I would rather spend $25.00 and have some piece of mind than be cheap and not spend it and find out a few weeks later I have a 7 owner piece of 268,000 junk. I did Carfax's on all of my cars and it was worth it. Now I know and am not guessing.

I see that you decided to pass. Good idea. Very few people are giving away Camaro's these days. Since the new camaro is coming out a lot more people are aware of the value and are looking to make a quick buck on a piece of junk that most would or should part out. You get what you pay for. At about $2500 you will start to see the better Camaro's.

 

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/car/309839331.html


http://cleveland.craigslist.org/car/318571580.html

i liek the 3500 but dont want to pay that much

 

ugh... LG4 auto... you have found the slowest V8 Camaro ever made!

 

obviously you are retarded.

 

Hardly. Everyone knows that... it's not opinion... it's fact. 150 CRANK hp + 3300lb car = slow.



Lets see, you've been here how long? Owned how many Camaros or V8 GM cars?

Exactly.

 

sorry master.

your car is not the end all be all either dude.

 

What is this "you car" you speak of? If you mean one of MY cars... I never said they were. In fact, I never said anything about them.

You posted about this car asking for suggestions. I'm simply putting that this Camaro is the slowest and to be prepared to be passed by Ford Tempos on the test drive. Just don't expect much when you mash the pedal, that's all. Nothing to do with you personally... jeez

 

re read your first sentence, i DID NOT ASK IF THIS CAR WAS FAST. frankly i liek the look of the car, i am not some one who drives fast just becuase the car can.

i repeat no where in my post did i ask how fast this car was.

 

You DID ask if it was the HO or not...

Also these cars are unibody, no frames.

And black smoke would mean running rich... not a big deal. You'd want to look for BLUE smoke or WHITE smoke... oil or antifreeze burning.

 

yeah sorry we got off on the wrong foot.

im trying to get this other camaro but the dudes want 3,000 for a car with no seats and gauages and it has 137,000 on it.

 

Well, figure out repair costs and new part costs and show them to the guy. Say, look, I have to put $xxx into it so will you work with me on the price?

 

he seems like a real ****, he acts like he did some "mods" wow ok umm 137,000 miles... not mods more like reutine maintenace.

i did a kbb on the car and it came out less than 2,000 sumthing like 1,755 for the car in good condition.

 

I've said it before and I'll say it again, spend your money on something that you won't have keep throwing repair $$ at.

The car with 137k, no seats and no instruments! What are you thinking? Even if you get the car for $2k, you have to get seats, hope the wiring for the cluster is still good and works, get a cluster and hope the guages work, repair whatever "mods" this hack has done, repair any suspension, tranny, engine or body issues, etc. Spend a few more dollars and get a car in better shape that you can start enjoying the day you get it. If you can afford to make weekly or monthly repairs, you can afford to spend a little more and make payments. Plus, the payments will help create a credit rating.

 

i was telling him how his mods werent mods but general maintenace on a vehicle with 137,000. also i was telling him how kelley lbue book was a fair price for both the seller and the buyer, kind of like the industry standard, and he told me to throw it out the window.

the seller is a joke, his emails below

if you are worried about gas you need to look for a VW or a motorcycle! There are seats but one needs repair as you can indeed use what is there. Can be brazed to work and would still look great. New ones are about $300.00!

like I said you need to look at someother vehicle as you cannot get this one for cheap! Thanks buddy

I will sell it for $3000.00 before I do anything else to it! After that the price will increase by the things I install. Act now!!


there are seats there but one is in need of slight repair to the seat frame! We wanted racing seats but we found some new for $300.00 Throw the Kelly book out the window and come to look at this car! Thanks

im not dealing with this seller to save some dollars, there is like no camaros for sale in ohio atleast by me.

 

Well the first thing you need to understand is that you aren't looking for a 2003 Honda. You're talking about a 16+ year old performance car. It's called supply and demand, and apparently in your area there is more demand then supply. For that reason alone you're going to pay more then what you would consider a fair price.

Second, if the buyer isn't in a huge hurry to sell, he can ask whatever he wants. It looks from the picture that the car is fairly straight and has clean glossy paint. If you start with a car in primer or with bad clear coat (like a lot of cheap thirdgens) it's going to cost $3,000 for a remotely decent paint job.

If you wait for the right car, you might get a deal, but somewhere along the line you will have to settle. If you want the car to be everything you're looking for, get ready to spend a bit more. Another thing that you're missing is that most sellers don't know nearly that much about what they're selling. You'd be further ahead to get the basic info on the car and inspect it yourself. If you want it, make an offer. There is no point trying to convince someone asking $3500 for their car that it's only worth $1500.

 

should i call him up by phone and offer him 2500? does that seem reasonable?

 

Have you seen the car in person? If not and you're seriously interested... Drive down there, take the maximum you think it's worth with you in cash, if you like it make an offer in person. If I listed a car for $3500 and someone called and offered $2500 I'd hang up on them. If they offered it in person, I might be a little tempted.

 

true, hey thansk for the help dude, i really apreciate it.

 

You never know when a deal might pop up too... I got my 84 Z28 HO 5 speed for $500 from a guy who couldn't get it running... and my 88 Iroc with lots of mods and work done for $1500!

Don't settle for something that you sorta want. Just wait till what you REALLY want comes along... otherwise when it does, you'll be wishing you waited!

 

true, do oyu know why it wont let me post in the wnated section? sometinh pops up saying i cant post a thread.

 

thats odd, oh and btw, keep looking, yeah my car is a sixer but shes real clean with 69k i paid 1900. and an lg4 auto wont be getting passed by any ford tempos. with a good tune and some minor stuff i was seeing low 16's in my 85 trans am. pretty bad though considering im seeing 17s from my 6er.