Hello everyone! I am new to this awesome site, so forgive me if this is the wrong section to ask, or if these questions have been asked before.

I am thinking about buying a 3rd generation Firebird (new to the third gen as well, I used to own a 79 formula), and I would like some general advice, since I know nothing about them!

What should I look for as far as the body and frame goes? Do they rust in certain spots, or the usual spots like most any vehicle?

It there a particular engine I should look for or avoid? How about trannys? Are the V6's good?

What can I expect to pay for one in good (not show) condition with normal mileage?

Anything else you can think of for me to be on the lookout for would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help!

 

The body and frame is fairly easy to go over. Bring a flashlight though, when you look at a car. First off, check both rocker panels under neath, this is a guaranteed pain in the *** to change, 2nd is the 1/4 panels and fenders, open up the doors and check the door jambs, especially the corners. Also, look on the bottom of the door, where the metal is folded. If that stuff is rusted, it's gonna be some work.

Places like the floor pans, trunk pan, back bumper support, rad support, and wheel wells are also quite difficult to fix. 6 Cylinders aren't as desireable as a 5.0 V8, or a 5.7 V8, and it will pay off in the end to find a V8, as upgrading to a larger V8 is much easier.

Looking to pay for something no quite show quality.. I paid $1500 for a running V6, hardtop, 5 speed Firebird. I put 30k on it since then. So the average price for something decent is from 2-4k. They're cheap, now..

I'm working on a 91 Trans Am, I paid $1000 for it, and it came with atleast that in parts.. It's just a matter of being patient. There was a ton of these things built so you won't have trouble finding one..

 

1) For the most part I would recommend something with TPI. Since your new, TPI = Tuned port Injection. It basically looks like an aluminum spider sitting on top of the engine. I would also look for something with a 350, unfortunately the 350 ONLY came with an Automatic Transmission and was made only between 1987 & 1992. 5.7L's (350) will have an 8 in the 8th digit of the VIN, and the LB9 or 5.0L (305) would have an "F" for the 8th digit. If you want a 5 Speed then you will want to look for an 305 LB9/M5 car.
2) The Automatic transmissions are better from 1987+ and the manual transmissions were improved in 1988. Basically the later the car the more bugs they got worked out, but all in all they really did not change significantly over the years.
3) The cam profile is the most aggressive in 1988 & 1989, but power seemed to increase in 1990 thru 1992 where the engines are basically the same when comparing car to car.
4) From 1985 thru 1989 TPI cars used a MAF or Mass Air Flow Sensor, basically it calculates the amount of air the engine needs by cooling a wire in the sensor and then comparing that with the ambient temperature to calculate flow. Starting in 1990 GM changed to the MAP sensor over the MAF. MAP = Manifold air Pressure, often called SD or Speed Density, this system measures the pressure inside the Manifold to calculate the amount of air coming into the engine, this method is often considered better because the MAF restricts the amount of air coming into the Engine. However the MAP system requires more tuning when modifying the engine, where the MAF tends to adjust more easily when making changes like larger runners, base & plenum, headers etc...
5) T-tops or no t-tops... many people complain about leaking T-tops, starting in mid 1991 however they greatly improved the seals on T-top cars and you can upgrade existing T-top seals to the newer design which really reduces leaks. However the kit costs about $350 right now.
6) Evident Rust... for the most part the when these cars tend to rust around the wheel wells the rear wheel well opening is often repaired incorrectly. There is a highlight line that is often filled in when attempting to repair rust in that area. Check the floor pans, and the strut towers. There are two axle manufacturers which were used, one was the Saginaw gear which is very common and the other is the Borg & Warner (B&W) or Australia Axle. The B&W axle is supposed to be more efficient, and some people claim it is stronger, it was also painted from B&W. The Saginaw gear however was not painted and is always has has some rust evident, as will the drive shaft is also unpainted and will have some rust unless the car is in really good condition. The Front suspension will have some minor rust as well as they were scarcely painted.
7) Style... Basically you have 5 different cars to chose from, you have the base firebird & Special Edition aka "S/E" (1982-1986), which would not have the LB9 or L98. Starting in 1987 the S/E was dropped and they reintroduced the Formula and introduced the GTA. In 1987 the GTA was a Trans Am option package and been ordered pretty plain, but from 1988 thru 1992 the GTA was a loaded Trans Am. The Formula is the no frills performance model from 1987 - 1992, Performance wise, the Formula tends to run about .1 to .2 seconds quicker in the Quarter than the Trans Am or GTA with the same engine, I like to consider the Formula the GTO of the 80's & 90's as the premise was the same, All go no show, but I am biased. The Formula and the GTA from 1987 thru 1992 all got a performance axle, when equipped with the L98 (350) or the LB9 (305) with the Manual transmission. The Trans Am did not always get the Performance axle like the GTA and the Formula...

I would expect to pay around $5000 for a nice running good condition car, If you want a show car (you said you did not) you might be able to find a nice car around the $10,000 range... In my personal experience find a nice car rather than try to fix one up and pay the more up front as you will save money in the long run... BUT you will not learn as much...

I think that's enough for today...

Good luck...

John