Heavy rust removal made easy, I知 a believer.

We all know how crusty under body car parts can get.
I wanted to clean up my rear end cover.
I got a sand blast cabinet but man it such a heavy rust its gonna be even work then.


Thought about this vid
http://Viragotech.com/rustremoval.mpg

Went and found some washing soda.
I changed things up a bit from a post on the virago site about a guy who did a gas tank, he said he had to add more soda and rods to get it done more even.

So I used near 2 cups of soda to 8 gal of hot water. Took a metal strip like in the vid but put some rods on it like an antenna and from the rust you can see on them, it worked.




This pic here is after only 30-40 mins


I then let it go near another 2hrs to get it super clean for powder.
This is it and the best it gonna look id bet.



If I had a cement swiming pool id do my whole car, could capture allot of free hydrogen doing that large scale for classics. It was making bubbles like mad.

 

Here is the end result. Hit with chrome powder, looks decent for the pitty metal. But once under the car and from 4ft away, it will look great.

That made my life so much easier, I would of spent all day working to get that cover clean enough to powder coat.

 

So I guess they didn't teach you about this in your middle school science class? I agree, it is a very helpful process.

 

I remember watching some spike or speed tv episode doing this. I already got my rear end fluid flushed so I won't be doing the cover anytime soon.

 

Another option

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...ml#post1486252

 

neat, I'll have to try this.

 

Yeah just do a search on youtube... you'll find a lot of good stuff like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NH9Cd-g23kw
essentially the same thing but they mention cola here.

I'm glad I found this thread since I'm working on my 91 T/A and that thing has some parts that are rusted to hell... This will be great for those rusty screws! Now I just gotta find a "power source."

EDIT: Oh and any idea if the black stuff that comes out of it is paintable?

 

The black scrubs off.

Soda? Sticky?

The battery charger is the best option.
Works like a charm.

I need to build a perm box / tank or what not to do stuff in.

Still like to borrow a pool and do the whole car.
So much rust you can't see that only a dip can get to.
But a real dip from a shop is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

 

Hey what kind of charger are you using? I bought a $30 from walmart but it's a smart charger and doesn't seem to be sending juice into my rust removal project. The light saying if its charging isn't lit and it's been sitting for over an hour with nothing happening. Or is there any way I can trick the charger?

 

That would be the hitch, them goofy electronic smart chargers wont work, and they suck anyways.

Regular old on off type, not smart.

 

Gee, that diff condition looks EXACTLY like what I picked up in MI.
last year. Glad permanent home is Texas, where we don't need
to shovel sunshine, and salt is reserved for ice-cream freezing
& cow-pastures.

I've had good luck w/ the electrolysis method -- except for the
time when I reversed the polarity connections, and collected more
rust on the part. It's amazing how the water jackets in
blocks & heads turn out. Lengths of foundation re-bar make good
electrodes, and are plentiful/cheap. And best of all, the used
solution (iron oxide, and washing soda) is as easy to dispose of
as splashing it across the yard.

 

I have an old Charger. Best thing ever the only time it is smart is if it overloads and clicks off. Came out of an old mechanic shop selling stuff.

 

A computer power supply works great as well. You only need to add a wire to make it run constantly.

 

you can't come in and post that without detailed instruction. Just rude

 

On the big 20/24pin connector, Connect the green (pin14) with any ground (black wire)

 

Sorry I couldn't remember which wires had to be connected together :P So thanks KillerT !

 

Nice! If only I had a garage, would I do something like this.