Thanks for the comments and the link. I'll be getting to the stereo stuff in a couple weeks.

 

Couple of minor updates...

Yanked out the old rusty muffler and single tailpipe. Tried to install the original muffler and tailpipe setup but had trouble finding the right adapter. Gave up on that today. Might be just as easy to spend 15 minutes at a muffler shop and let them do it right. Oh well.

I was able to find an original side-bulge hood liner from an f-body parts guy. I cleaned it with some tire foam, sprayed it lightly, and let it dry. Installed it. I need to work on the one rusty spot. Not sure if I like it or not. For now, it will do.

 

Looking good!!!!
You shouldn't need a adapter to put the stock muffler on. I'm guessing it has a 3" intermediate pipe on it?? The factory size is 2 3/4" intermediate exhaust pipe.

 

The pipe running down the length of the car that curves toward the muffler reduces itself at the end to about 2.5" I had picked up an adapter that had a 2.5" ID on that end and it fit right over the intermediate pipe end to where it could be clamped down nicely.

The problem end was that neck coming out of the factory muffler. A 2.5" OD adapter would not fit into it, which means the ID of it must be 2.5 or less. I wrecked an adapter trying. Then I said, ok, it looks like something should slip over that end coming out of the muffler but it measures approx 2.6". 2.5" ID would not, of course slip over it, and 2.75" seems way too big UNLESS you think 2.75" would clamp down on it once it's clamped down hard enough?

It's almost like I need an adapter/reducer that has 2.5" ID on the end that mates to the intermediate pipe and 2 5/8" ID on the end that slips over what's coming out of the muffler...?

Am I seeing this wrong?

Should the neck coming out of the muffler slip INTO something or OVER something?? To me, it looked like it was designed to slip INTO something which at 2.6" OD, makes it a weird size.

 

I would have to get in the garage attic to check out my factory exhaust.
I'm sure the pipe is 2 3/4" but I'd bet it is necked down at the muffler to slide inside the inlet.

 

I am pretty sure the intermediate pipe is supposed to fit into the muffler. I would have to take a look at my original exhaust. Is your intermediate pipe stock?

 

I figured it out. Upon closer inspection, what you see in the pic above (which I thought was the flange of the muffler inlet) turns out to be 2.5" OD pipe welded into the flange. The muffler's flange is actually shorter and yes, you would slide 2.5" pipe into it. This is a remnant of old pipe left in there probably when it was removed 15+ years ago.

This is why no size of adapter was working.

If it can't be cut out, then I'll either have to affix something 2.5" pipe to 2.5" pipe (which will be crappy) OR have the muffler shop weld right to it.

 

Minor Updates:

Changed the fuel filter.
Replaced the outer window felt/sweeps to get rid of the badly cracked originals.
Ripped out all the non-factory speakers and wiring.
Repaired a piece of broken plastic where the stereo mounts.
Did some minor disassembly to the console to get it ready to repair the separation.
Replaced the dead hatch struts with functioning ones.
Reassembled a couple interior pieces.

 

Updates. Replaced fuel pump relay and oil pressure switch which solved the fuel pump running endlessly problem. Thanks TTOP350 for the tips!!!

Fixed the separating console and replaced console lid.



Replaced this...



With one in a little better condition...



Installed some really nice condition original speakers - front and mid.





Wired up the mid-section of the car for the Carroll Sound System that will end up in the rear hatch area.



Just the beginning of what will be in the trunk.



Rewired the factory stereo - mmmm Spaghetti!



Reinstalled the Dash Pad

 

Reassembled the entire interior today - back to front. Whew! Took a lot longer than I expected. Lots of bolts! LOL.

 

I just noticed in this pic that the lower fender brace is put in upside down.. Yeah I have issues ..

 

You can run a 3M foam waffle pad over this center and the tail lights with some 3M swirlmark remover to bring back the shine to the center part/ tails..

Hers a link to a good pic of mine..
http://awephotography.zenfolio.com/p...313b1#hf2313b1

 

Yes, on purpose. Carroll flipped it and notched it to lay flat to allow for just enough extra space so the expansion tank fit tight.


Thanks. Next weekend starts the exterior cleaning! Can't wait.

 

I figured there was a reason!!
Exterior cleaning and exterior illumination are things I know well... lol

 

OK. How about duct tape glue residue on paint? Nothing has worked so far...WD40, Goo Gone, and 50% diluted degreaser.

Thx!

 

3M adhesive remover or some kind of paint prep solvent.
I have even used carb and choke cleaner, sprayed on a rag then while its evaporating, wipe the sticky stuff gently..

 

I ended up using this....it worked very well. Got it at Lowes. Said it was safe for paint and mentioned tape glue.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_16685-11743-...5&Ntt=lift-off

 

Spent about 10-11 hours on the paint this weekend. Used a family member's carport to stay in the shade.

BEFORE

 

AFTER Wash, Clay Bar, Compound 1, Compound 2, and Wax. Much better!

She's not perfect and I just can't fix 15 years of neglect without major re-work and expense.

 

I think you are being hard on yourself, the car looks great and we all know how unforgiving black is

 

So, what's next?

I have an original rubber tail being worked on. Should be done in a couple weeks.

Misc compound splatter clean-up. LOL.

The rear aftermarket mud guards need to come off. I have the rear pair that hold the Carroll logo waiting to go on. Same with the front. They are the correct ones but they need the Carroll plate to go back on, which I have.

Need to put the factory Formula/Firebird graphics back on.

Need to put the Carroll graphics on.

Need to fix the AM/FM/CD radio. Shows 0:00 and volume. That's it.

Few misc bolts here and there to install or replace.

Finish installing all the Carroll sound system stuff that goes in the back.

I'm probably missing some things.

Aside from needing an alignment, the brakes on this car actually feel darn good. The tires seem fine but they do shake a little which means they either could use a good balancing or they might be warped/flat-spotted from 12 years of sitting.

 

Awsome find and Fantastic story!!! Kinda cool how the car has lived in one area its whole life and ended up in good hands. Will you be going to any shows with this car? If so let me know I'd love see this beautiful piece of pontiac history! Please keep posting and let us see how the spoiler turns out. Maybe some before and after pics would be cool.

 

I would replace the tires honestly. Even if they are not dry rotted and cracked as you said they probably have flat spots and age hurts tires performance as well. I just replace some 12 year old tires on my iroc this summer because the car would not keep a straight line no matter how many different shops aligned it. Flipped both front tires right to left and left to right and it pulled the opposite way.

Also i wouldnt really trust 12 year old tires to drive on a good distance but thats just me.

 

I'd like to show the car. We'll see. Maybe Pontiac Day at Atco in Oct/Nov. I'll keep posting for sure.

I agree. Not worth the risk.

 

Wow oh wow. Gotta follow this one.

 

no spoiler?

 

Soon. Almost done being repaired.

 

Updates: a little hot today (101) to get much done but I did a little...

Converted from R12 to R134a, charged the system and the AC now blows cool again.

Installed all 4 of the Carroll mud flaps.

 

Yes, those Jesey heat waves I remember them well, hot, humid and hard to breath. Now I am in FL where its hot and humid 7 months of the year for me

 

Booooo on the 134a

 

Installed the 3 Birds today and all of the Carroll Graphics. Differences between this Black VHO and the Red VHO that has been in High Performance Pontiac Magazine include: 1) all of the factory "formula" decals were removed and the "Carroll" decals put in their places, 2) Mud Flaps (the prototype Silver VHO and this Black VHO had mud flaps - the Red VHO and the White totalled VHO did not, 3) of course this formula was a stripe delete option formula whereas the Red VHO had the lower stripes, and 4) the door handle inserts have a different city address for Carroll Supercharging Co - this matches the original dealer showroom pic that I have.

Car definitely needs its tail....soon.

 

Veeeeery cool! I LIKE IT!!
One last lil detail is new door lock covers. can get em from GM usually for free!

 

Amazing car and great thread! ...well aside from all the kid bashing...Should I mention I learned to drive stick on an Audi TT when I was 15? That was only less than 3 years ago.

 

Minor updates for today: Changed the supercharger oil, motor oil and filter (Fram HP4 Racing as per the Carroll manual). Man, that Fram HP4 is tall - a little worried it's going to hit something.

 

Coming along! I got the clips the other day, thank you very much!

 

Changed the transmission fluid & filter today and rear differential fluid.

 

mmmmmmmm howd that diff fluid smell?

 

LOL. Nasty.

 

excellent, just as planned mwahaha. anyways whats next on the 'ol girl?

 

Couple black cosmetic replacement parts coming.
Wire up the Carroll sound system in trunk.
Fix factory am/fm/cd.
Get factory muffler put on.
Rear spoiler is primed, need to have it test-fitted on car then painted.

Should be done at that point.

 

Absolutely Fantastic car!!!!

Great work bringing her back!!!!!

 

Love it!! Keep us posted.

Mark.

 

Updates:

Last 2 weekends involved having an OE rubber tail repaired, prepped, installed, primed, painted, cleared, etc. A lot of time went into this. It is not perfect and we still have some polishing to do but so far so good.

We also sanded, primed and painted the metal trim that goes around the hatch glass. This was rusted pretty bad. It came out great.

Also, the plastic housing on the hatch motor and the hatch nylon guides all decided to split or crumble. A repair kit was ordered from TDS.

New hatch struts that can support the weight of the rubber tail are sitting here waiting to go on as soon as I fix the hatch mechanism.

Here are some pix. I'll get better ones when I button her up and clean her up.




















I also just noticed in the last picture that I need to realign the hatch deck a little to fix that gap. I think I read somewhere in the service manual how to do this...

 

Leave it crooked that way it will be just like most all the other 3rd gens were & actually original. It isn't crooked because it moved. It is because of a defect in the making of the parts & sloppy build QC.

 

Looking good. But y the stock spoiler and not a fiberglass repo. I hope your repairEd one does t crack

 

Why keep it original when you can get aftermarket parts? Was that a serious question blwnss? haha

Looks awesome though!!! Any updates on the audio setup? Bet that's a back burner project

 

Nice work as usual!

 

Some guys with the same issue. There are some tips here. I have some pix of mine in this thread.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...ajustment.html

 

So.....you don't want to hurt her, eh? You better enjoy putting your foot in it, before you hand it over to your son. He's gonna abuse that engine in every way possible.

He, he......but can you blame him?

 

That was totally serious. Why put an inferior part on when a good part is available and no one will notice. That's like putting a set of ported heads. Look the same on the outside.