I have the original 105 amp alternator (#1101141) from my 1987 IROCZ LB9. I am looking for a recommendation for someone who can do a factory correct restoration of this alternator (correct markings, color, etc.).

 

I have heard that most alternator rebuilders can do that if asked. If that's true or not, I don't know.

 

I had it done it my 81 z28.

But that was 15 years ago.

 

Just had this done on my 92. Guy local to me. I emphasized to him to not glass bead or touch the case with any cleaner, and he obliged. Told me that would save him a little work and me a little money. I stuck around and watched him rebuild it. Took him an hour. You can’t tell it’s ever been off my car.

 

Should be a 2 letter ink stamp put on them too if you want it to be like new. I haven't found a source for the stamps yet

 

If you know the font of the letter Office Depot can custom make stamps to order...

 

From my 89 IROC

 

That looks great!

 

for kicks and grins this is a reman of the day. still works. probably replaced it in 93ish

 

There are no quality internal components made for the CS130 anymore. They are all off-shore junk. So what you will end up with is a unit that is pretty to look at, and an unreliable heap of trash from an operational standpoint.

GD

 

A few years ago I had a pair of "cosmetically challenged" alternators sitting on the bench. Both were older refurbs, so nothing to lose...



I'm fairly happy with how they came out. The uglier of the two got the case media blasted, the other just a good scrub. I still wasn't that happy with the appearance so the aluminum got a spray bomb coating. Not exactly 110% restoration accurate, but then even fresh cast aluminum starts to oxidize and get dull shortly. Other than that, all the black parts got stripped and painted, I checked the brushes, and replaced the bearings. Total investment was pretty much the cost of the bearings, but then I probably had a couple parts in the junk bin leftover from previous rebuilds.

Seems like the early CS alternators had a lot of issues. It wasn't uncommon in the 90's when I got into thirdgens for the original alternator to be long gone. Even the parts store refurbs were questionable. Think my Iroc has had 4 different alternators on it. My 3.1L Firebird I drove for the better part of a decade ate the alternator two times that I can remember, one failed rear bearing, and a total catastrophic failure... Strangely my Formula has never had an issue, and I only replaced the bearings for peace of mind. I'm not sure I have a point, beyond "original alternator(s)" are generally going to be long gone by the time they need to be restored. That and the most common failure I've seen on modern(ish) replacements from 15 years ago was the small rear bearing. I'd sooner rip into one and replace the bearings than buy one with bright gold zinc plated parts made in Mexichina, but then I am frugal.

 

Regarding Rebuilding -

If you choose to rebuild or service the CS alternator yourself, you should know that the front bearing on original alternators is staked, or crimped, ie permanently installed in the case casting. To be removed a lip of aluminum has to be removed. Generally speaking, the refurbs typically have already had this done, and there's a spring steel retainer with three fingers that clip onto the vent openings in the case casting to retain the bearing. In that event, you just pry the fingers back to unclip the retainer and the bearing comes out without too much cussing.

The rear bearing is pressed on the shaft. Depending on how it was installed, and how long it's been on there, getting it off without destroying the ring of brush contacts (commutator? slip rings?) can be a bit of a chore. Sometimes there's enough gap to get between the parts with a prying tool or puller, sometimes you gotta get jiggy with a chisel and hope for the best. Removing any pressed on bearing can be fun, you could take a cut off wheel and cut the races apart, carefully parting the inner race when you get deep enough and peel it off the shaft... Or you can apply heat with a torch, or heat gun, and then try sliding the bearing off. Or you can go brute force and destroy everything. Pretty sure the contacts (commutator? slip rings?) are available as a replacement part, but I've always been able just to clean them up, polish them smooth with 500grit wet-or-dry, and run em.

The outer windings (armature windings, armature coils, stator windings, etc whatever you want to call them?) are soldered or welded to the rectifier(?). So getting the case apart from the windings means cutting (most common) or heating up the connection with a soldering iron to disconnect the leads. If the alternator is original, they'll probably be welded, in which case they're not coming apart without cutting, if it's been rebuilt you might get lucky. Most of the replacement rectifiers(?) have longer tabs for soldering back together. To access the connection, the plastic cover on the back of the alternator has to come off. Some just snap on/off, some have plastic rivets that have to have the center post pushed out with a punch before they'll come off.

If you've ever rebuilt a starter or alternator or anything with an electric motor, you probably already know how to reload the brush holder.. If not, look at the holder and you'll notice a hole above and below the brushes. Slide the brushes into the holder, and slip a straightened paper clip or wire into the holder to retain the brushes. Conveniently there's a hole in the rear case of the alternator for the wire to protrude thru. When the alternator is all back together, pull out your paper clip to release the brushes.

Can't think of much else worth mentioning. They're fairly simple alternators to work on, but not quite as friendly as the SI series... Oh if the rear brace hole or mounting tab are stripped, they're an M8-whatever helicoil.

 

Any way to get measurements of the number letter size?

 

I keep the car in my enclosed trailer in my storage building. I’ve got the day of today so when I have some time I’ll run over and get those measurements for you.